Mokokchung, Nagaland, India
Nagaland is my next port of call. It is a very different state to Arunachal and is the home of the Nagas. The Nagas are a fiercely independent and warrior race. They have not been really conquered in the past, not even during British rule. When India became independent, under strong push from Delhi, the Naga kingdom also became a part of India. There are many tribes in Nagaland, of which two are most prominent. The Konyaks of Mon are the tribe that come to mind when you think of Nagaland. They are a fierce race and were headhunters in the past – No man was considered a man unless he had killed an enemy in battled and feasted on him. Scalping and displaying skulls was considered a fundamental requirement. Other tribes in the region were extremely fearful of them. Headhunting was banned until 1935, but it existed until the early 1960s Thereafter it has died down although it is rumoured that even now an odd case or two happens ! I would have loved to go to Mon, but two factors dissuaded me from venturing there. One is that the roads to Mon and back are extremely bad and I would have to exit again via Assam. Secondly Mon fails the "Suja test" (!!!!!!!) – if I were 20 years younger, I would have gone there, but a middle aged (?) man now requires a higher degree of comfort in accommodation !!
The Ao Nagas are centred around Mokokchung and are a far gentler tribe, if no less independent
. So that’s where I went. Its only 100 kms from Jorhat to Mokokchung, but we are back in hill country. Mokokchung is built on a hill – so the town is probably 20-30 stories high !! Roads have steep gradients and you travel up and down in commuting in the town rather than lengthwise or breadthwise ! Sidewalks are steps rather than pavements. If you live in this city and walk about, you’ll be very fit. Yes, I haven’t seen one obese person here. Not even Rajalakshmi (Rajalakshmi is another fictional character invented by me to portray the average Indian woman who sometimes can be a menace to the weighing scale).
Areas of Nagaland that border Myanmar are racked with insurgency and I hesitated going there, although an Englishman who’s also traveling this region, is calling me a wimp ! He went there and even wandered into Myanmar and came back coolly – the border is very porous in these parts.
One huge difference from Arunachal – the Nagas do not speak Hindi at all
. Its more English here, and therefore communication isn't a problem. Naga, by the way, has nothing to do with serpents (Naga is the Hindi word for a serpent). Nobody seems to know how they came to be called as Nagas, but the best explanation I heard is that apparently Naga means covering of the ear in their dialects and Nagas are known to adorn flowers, rings, etc (even the males) around their ears.
Nagaland is almost 100% Christian. There's a big church in every village. On Sundays, everything is closed and I mean everything. If you come here, don't come on a Sunday ! I knew this, so won't be around this state on a Sunday.
This is a seriously meat eating country. Vegetarians have absolutely no choice in local food. Incidentally there's not much money going around and eating out is still not very common or affordable. So restaurants are closed for dinner !
A surprisingly good inn here run by a Naga couple, completely passes the Suja test ! Once again , there are no other tourists as far as I can see. First feel of Mokokchung is nice. Tomorrow I hope to understand a bit more about the Ao Nagas.
Welcome to Nagaland
Thursday, February 26, 2015
Mokokchung, Nagaland, India
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Comments
2025-05-23
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Insanely jealous!
2015-02-26
You are in a part of the world that I have blogged about for years ... I so much want to see those places ... life is short, budget is tight, time is limited ... well, at least for those of us working without the gazillion yuan in the bank ;)
And then to add salt to the injury, you write there are no Rajalakshmis there ... turning green here. Oh, wait, that is the moss growing on me ;)
Anne in Salem
2015-02-27
Not much money around yet the church, hotel and mall seem modern, with expensive attributes. I would think someone would be willing to cook you as many vegetables as you want just for the income. I agree with the photo commentator - the mall could be anywhere in the world. Too bad the builders did not include anything particularly local.
Be safe.
indigoite
2015-02-27
@ Don't be jealous - Well my friend, if you want to see this part of India, just come. It doesn't cost much - one day's salary of yours can pay for 5 days of travel in these parts. And you lot get sabbaticals ...........
@ Anne - The church would be exactly like that given that it was all built by missionaries. They want to discourage all pagan practices, any traditional customs, etc etc. The church is always an imposing western building - everywhere in Asia its the same.
Vincy Joseph
2015-02-28
I have heard gory stories of the food in Nagaland ( even for a hard core meat eater, the food was a bit too gruesome). Maybe if you had visited a local market you could see for yourself :-)
yes, everything around here looks modern and this images of the road side reminds me of the malabar coast in Kerala. almost similar.
Suja
2015-02-28
Hey you're making me famous! :) Actually we have to name it the Suja Test 2. Because (warning: totally off topic) I once caught my husband and friends ogling and commenting on a distressingly young film star. I scolded them and laid the rule that they were not permitted to even look at a girl any younger than 5+age of oldest daughter in the group. All the guys complained, especially the ones with young families. But it has been accepted as The Suja Test ! :)
Nagaland sounds interesting but I am a true wimp..happy enough to see a nice travel documentary from the comfort of my nice couch..
PS On behalf of the many Rajalakshmis of the world, I protest at such discrimination!
indigoite
2015-02-28
@Vincy - After China, nothing will shock me ! Yes, the Nagas eat dog meat occasionally, but most of the time its standard fare of pork, beef, chicken and fish. Nothing exotic there.
@Suja - Hee Ho Ho at Suja Test 1. I join the guys in protesting vehemently :) You are no wimp if you went to Jaldapara. You are a cool traveler.
Sandhya Sriram
2015-03-01
Quite Interesting Ramesh. I havent even tried to imagine where Nagaland was on the India map. and frankly never thought, the culture was so unique. a meat eating christian english speaking unconquered state and me - Rajalakshmi thinks, North east is just one homogeneous hilly tea and bamboo growing agri land.
indigoite
2015-03-02
@Sandhya - Perish the thought. You are no Rajalakshmi :)
Asha
2015-03-04
Ah! another interesting post complemented with pics.
of all the NE states, i think this is one i know since my school days. My aunt and uncle lived here in kohima and she said the people eat there worms and worms ( like the infested rice worms) are even sold in shops for 100 gms.
indigoite
2015-03-04
@Asha - Wow - you have connections everywhere.
Yes I believe some wrigglies are eaten, but that is true in many other cultures as well - Cantonese for example. To each his or her own.