Civilized Seville

Saturday, June 14, 2014
Seville, Andalusia, Spain and Canary Islands
June 11-13, 2014
  Hotel Abril €45 (Thursday price), 50 (Friday price)
  Full on weekend (double without breakfast)

 June 14 & 15, 2014
  B&B Naranjo €50 (Saturday price) €35 (Sunday) 
  double with breakfast
 
 
 
Temperature Peaked at 46C!!!! Ouch


Breakfast at Hotel Abril was €5 per person extra and we decided to try it. It had a nice looking spread of cold cuts, cheese, boiled eggs and a potato-egg-pie of sorts, which was rather flavorless. But several kinds of bread, juices, fresh fruit, yoghurt and cereal gave ample choices. The small breakfast room was filled to capacity and people were waiting. We didn't feel comfortable lingering so we ate and ran, so to speak. We decided on self catering yoghurt and cereal next time. 

Dave had booked three days at Hotel Abril. We wanted to make sure we were happy with the hotel and neighborhood before adding more days. We like both and asked if we could extend our stay. We were able to add a day, at a higher price. But they were already full for the weekend. Weekend rates go up in Seville and most places, especially the budget options, were full too. A little later, B&B Naranga called back and said they had a room for us. We were disappointed we'd have to leave Abril but happy that we had another place. 
   
 
Lidl Shopping Fix

We are well located in the historic center. We walked about a kilometer to the Lidl grocery store, an EU grocery chain we like. We hoped to be able to buy the coffee I liked so well in France. But sadly, they don't carry the same coffee here. It is a great place to buy a wonderful assortment of fresh breads, pre-washed salads, cheese and other sandwich fixings. I got some seeded rolls and lox and Dave was happy with cold roasted chicken for on his sandwich. It's been a long time since we had these choices. We were able to store some items in fridge at the hotel. 


Lanes and Streets
 
We wandered the picture perfect lanes and streets. I actually could look around and admire the ornate balconies and eves without fear of falling over uneven sidewalks or missing pavers.

Everywhere, little cafe's and bars flow out onto the sidewalk and are filled with people enjoying a reprieve from the heat with cool drink and a tapa or two. We join them now and then and watch the parade of tourists and locals pass by for a while.
 
 
Open Bus Tour
 
On our way again, we were stopped in our tracks by two enthusiastic competitors for the Red and Green city bus tours. Just as I made a remark to them about how great they worked along side each other, they blew that myth right out of the water and we found ourselves between an escalating row between the two (previously) very nice girls. "She has been critical of my tour the whole time." I tried to ease the situation but every time I thought it was over, they began bickering again. Finally I said, "I understand both tours are almost the same. We'll think about it." We slipped away. 

We ended up buying the tickets for the Red bus at our hotel, same price (€17) but no hassle. 

 
Thursday, June 12

On Thursday morning, we made our way to the flea market in the Macarena area of town, not far from our hotel. The narrow streets were lined with tables and racks full of used clothes, electronics, fans, antiques, collectibles, metal ware, watches and junk. I bought a fan and I can justify such a practical purchase. Bargaining is a lighthearted interaction here. At one stand, when I realized one fan I was interested in was broken, the vendor with a big grin lowered his price drastically. When I declined it any price he said, "a otre dia." I agreed and repeated it. Then he called after me "otre anos?" Another year, maybe? 
 
Several vendors noticing my camera and put on a pose. I bought another fan, just couldn't resist. I can't believe how happy such a small purchase makes me. Remember our rule is to dispose of something when we purchase something. Okay, it's not carved in stone, I just have to carry more.

 
Around Seville on the Red Bus
 
Afterward the flea market, we decided to do the hop-on hop-off "Red Bus City Tour". Despite the unrelenting sun and 45C temps, we opted for the top-deck. After all, I don't want to miss anything. As long as the bus moves, the breeze makes it tolerable. But too often, we stopped up to 10 long minutes which felt like we were sitting under a broiler. 

The tickets afforded us 48 hours of hopping on and off. We decided orient ourselves in Seville by staying on the entire loop route of the tour bus. And then, we'd go back to the most interesting sights. We quickly realized that many of the outstanding sights were off route. Sure, the city has wonderful monuments and architecture to admire along the route...the site of the Expo'29 for instance with beautiful Pavilions built by Mexico, Brazil, Columbia, to name a few. The bull fighting arena, the Basilica de Macarena, the old city wall. But there is more, much more hidden in and around the narrow streets and plazas. Despite the grueling heat, we covered a lot of the city by foot, taking periodic refuge on terraces behind a tall and wet Sangria or "Tinto de Verano" ( refreshing red wine with orange or lemon soda) 
 
We love the atmosphere in this city.
 

Friday June 13th 

We rode the Red Tour Bus again and joined one of their walking tours to the Gothic Giralda Cathedral and Royal Palace. Most people in the tour were Spanish and English translation was minimal. We stopped for tapas and vino before heading back to the hotel through the lovely narrow streets of the Jewish neighborhood. We saw an advertisement for a Flamenco show at the Hotel Alcántara and peeked in the small auditorium. It was an intimate setting with a few dozen chairs around a raised stage for a hour long show. It was just our kind of venue and we bought tickets for the next night.
 

Saturday June 14th 
 
 "Vahn" "Tooh" "Trree" Holland vs Spain. Oranje boven (orange on top, referring to "The house of Orange" in Holland.)

On our way to the La Casa del Flamenco for the performance, we ran across a lively Dutch group sporting orange shirts and Dutch flags painted on their cheeks. Ahhh, World Cup Soccer match, Holland vs Spain, is tonight. We remembered watching Spain beat Holland in the 2010 final. Tonight would be a rematch of sorts. Terraces advertised the event and excitement built in the air. We asked if we could take a picture of the Dutch fans. Dave put on his Dutch accent as he counted down for the picture: "Vahn" "Tooh" "Trree" " and he clicked. (The 1-2-3 is an old inside joke between me and Hans referring to the Dutch band leader's accent on the boat that brought us from Holland to America in 1965.)
 

Flamenco
 
We arrived 40 minutes early for the flamenco show because seating was first come-first serve and we wanted to be front row center. Luckily we didn't have to stand and wait. They put our name on a list and we relaxed in the hotel lobby until showtime.

First, the guitar player and singer performed. They were just getting warmed up. The tall dark male flamenco dancer performed next, pounding his steps into the stage in sync with the singer and guitar player. He wasn't a sex god but his performance was intense.

The woman dancer joined at the next song and the full complement of performers were on stage. Her dress was not as flamboyant as I expected and she wore a look of agony on her face as she danced. The foursome's singing, dancing and guitar playing was well paced and energetic. The one hour went quickly and we were happy with the show.

 
Spain 1, Holland 5

Holland was up on Spain as we walked past the cafes to our hotel. The mood was subdued to say the least. The orange clad fans held their joy in check. 
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