June 16, 2014
SEVILLE to TAVIRA, Portugal (175km)
Hotel Porto Novo - €40.50 ($55) double without breakfast
 

Last moring in Seville
 
Our afternoon bus meant we had time, but we were not inspired, to brave the mid-day heat in Seville. We decided to do research and blog at the hotel until we had to leave for the bus around 3 pm. No air-con blasting here. The temp is maintained at conservative and economical setting and we still do a fair bit of perspiring.

When we finally set foot outside we noticed a big drop in temperature from the previous days. "Only" 31C (88F). We were relieved. 
 
We stopped at market for some hummus and water for lunch. At the station, our bus driver was already loading luggage (3:45) and we managed to get front seats behind driver. 
 

Sunny Ride to Portugal

The freeway and scenery could have been in southern California. We made a stop in Huelva to drop off passengers. Power-line poles had up to 5 platforms with stork-nests - a stork commune. Endless fields of bright yellow sunflowers, wheat and olive orchards. A colorful strip of pink and white oleander was the center divider. At the border, a Customs agent came on the bus and checked passports. Quick and efficient.
 
When we arrived at the Tavera bus station, we spotted the big Hotel Porta Nova on small hill across Gilão River. We walked through an attractive neighborhood with well kept gardens to get there. 

 
Package Tour Hotel
 
Our hotel caters to the package tour crowd, mostly from the EU. The guests have use of two outdoor, and one indoor, swimming pools, a sauna, child care etc. And the packages often include half board; breakfast and dinner.
 
We were happy with our room and the price was right when compared with other options in Tavira. But there are many things not really up to standard. Our room was spacious and had small balcony. The fridge was limited to a "fresh" temperature, adequate but not like a normal fridge (at 40F). And the "airco" is really "climate control" which the hotel controls. It felt more like a vent with mildly cooled air blowing. Most of the time it was okay but there were a few times we would have liked the choice to make it cooler. Then there was no in-room wifi. We had to go to lobby or upstairs to the hotel bar to get a signal. For some reason, my iPad did not work in the lobby so I had to go to the bar upstairs and sit in hallway in front of locked doors because the bar doesn't open till 6pm. 

We heard people rave about the buffet breakfast. We self-catered and had fruit, yoghurt and cereal.

 
June 17-19, 2014 - TAVIRA
Hotel Porta Nova 

UK Rain-Birds Come to Tavira

U.K. rain-birds find many reasons to spend their retirement in Portugal and Tavira appears to be on their radar. The weather, the friendly locals, the food, ambiance, cost of living plus being not too far from family, friends and medical care back home, if need be. The same reasons many Americans find choice areas in Mexico attractive. 
 

So Much Cooler than Seville
   
We immediately had a good feeling about Tavira too. The drop in midday temperature to 27C/80F when we arrived meant we could explore to our heart's content. The center of town is very attractive with lovely whitewashed buildings and homes with magenta and white Bougainvillea and orange honeysuckle dripping over the walls. No trash. Very clean. 

Churches and Cathedrals have become part of the skylines again. From the hotel, we headed down to the river and crossed on the historic Ponte Romane, the seven arched stone bridge. On the other side of the river, we entered Placa da Republica, a lovely shaded riverfront plaza where slaves used to be traded
 
Despite its dark past, we liked the plazas which are places around town where people come to socialize, often with tree shaded benches, and nicely landscaped areas. Here too, terraces spill out on sidewalks and streets. We sat down next to a couple from England who retired here four years ago. They have a nice network of expats they socialize with. They have everything they need here. They told us to avoid the restaurants along the river, "they rip you off", they warned us. They told us about one place they enjoy for great home cooked and reasonably priced dinners, "Xico". We'll be sure to try it.
 

Touring the Historical Sites in Tavira 

After lunch, we walked the back lanes to Old Town. There are several churches. Our first stop was the 1540's Misericórdia Church which is paneled in 18th century blue and white hand painted tiles (azulejo), depicting biblical scenes. I don't know how unique that is but I had never seen anything like it. I managed to snap a picture before I was told we can't. 
 
Old town is small enough to see all there is to see in few hours max; the convent-turned-hotel, the Castelo, which consists of a few remnants of wall but has a lovely garden. The defense walls might date back to Neolithic times it was rebuilt by the Phoenicians in 8th century. The old town here is not nearly as intimidating as the ones we encountered in almost every town and village in Morocco, but enjoyable never the less. 

We continued on and decided to pick up a few groceries at Lidl, near the main train station. 

And Dave bought a MEO SIM card with a data plan for his smartphone. The clerks at the MEO store said the phone would set up automatically, and when it did not, told us to wait a few hours for it to self activate. Later, the phone received some welcome messages but Dave still had to find the manual set-up codes to get the internet up and running. It is slow but it works. 


Very Nice Wide Sandy Beach at Ilha de Tavira

One day, we packed a picnic and took the small ferry to the very popular Ilha de Tavira, which is part of Parque Natural de Ria de Formosa. Its sandy islands stretch along the coast from Cacela Velha (west of Faro.) 
   
We boarded the small ferry along with a throng of tourists lugging beach chairs, umbrellas and water toys. It is only a 15 minute ride to the island.

We followed the crowd along the boardwalk past several restaurants. The beach is well maintained and, every 100 meters, stand a series of recycle and trash bins. We continued beyond the board walk and found a lovely lunch spot in the dunes. It did not take too long before the sun's searing rays told us it was time to go home.

 
Xico's Was a Hit Pick

Our last night in Tavira, we walked five minutes from our hotel to get to Xico's. The atmosphere of the garden was relaxed and the weather was balmy. Dave had home style pork chops and I had a grilled fish. It was a perfect recommendation and the prices were reasonable.