June 20, 2014 
TAVIRA to LAGOS, 130km
9:30 am train
STAY: Blue Moon Hostel €45/$61 (double ensuite, without breakfast)


Leaving Tavira
 
We didn't realize that there were two train stations in Tavira until the desk clerk told us it was such a short walk that we didn't need a taxi. Our town map doesn't show the small Porta Nova train station near the Porta Nova Hotel in Tavira. It is just a platform and it turned out to be very convenient. We purchased tickets on the train and I was happy to find out I get 50% senior discount (have to show ID, copy won't do)
 
We were lucky too that our 9:30 train happened to be a direct train to Lagos. Otherwise, we would have had to make a transfer in Faro. 

 
Lagos, Population 31,048

It was midday sun so we opted for a taxi for the mile to historic town-center. Much of the center is pedestrian-only and lined with lively terraces. Live music was playing and toddlers were dancing and it made me feel lighter on my feet too - yes even with my 40 lbs+ pack :). 

Our hostel was easy to find and located on one of the main pedestrian thoroughfares. Terraces and tourist shops lined both sides. 
 
The Blue Moon Hostel occupies one floor above two restaurants on a busy pedestrian street. The guests can use a fully stocked kitchen facility. Everyone labels the stuff they put in the fridge. There is a sitting-room with TV, few board games and books, and a lovely terrace with tables which is cool and shady in the afternoons. Our light and airy room is sparsely furnished. (Nightstands would be nice as would a few shelves.) Our red tiled bathroom is spacious and has 2 windows, which we love because they allow the cool ocean breeze to come through. Jose and Angela own the small Blue Moon Hostel and they keep it spotless. 

We didn't waste time and went in search of a place to eat. The town has a very nice atmosphere, it is not wall to wall tourists, although it does see it's fair share of them. 

Part of town is built on small hills affording great views of the white washed buildings, red tiled roofs and, here and there, a church steeple when you're up high. Then there is a vestige and a few ancient gates. But I venture to say that most people come to Algarve for the picturesque rocky cliffs and caves along the coast-line and great beaches. Lagos is pronounced Lah-gosh by the locals.

For lunch we found "Osaka", a surprisingly good Japanese restaurant that serves up some great sashimi and nigiri. In fact, they have an all-you-can-eat option where you choose from an extensive menu of over 30 items. We mainly had the sashimi and nigiri but the grilled prawns were fantastic too. We tried their interpretation of California rolls but the added mango and too much rice for our liking just didn't cut it. It had been a long time since we enjoyed such great sushi. 
 
After lunch we spent hours getting lost in back streets away from the tourist core. 

 
Taxing Portugal

Before heading back "home" we picked up a few veggies for salads and a few dinner and breakfast items. The Lidl store has great selection and prices. It's a bit of a hike to get there but we don't mind.

Grocery TAX:
Prices on the shelves and packages include all taxes. But our supermarket receipt had the taxes broken out showing the different rates each item gets taxed. 
For example:

"A" 23% = for non essential luxury items e.i. Port, soft-drinks, sweets, smoked salmon even bran flakes, etc

"B" 6%= basically fruits and vegetables and most dairy

"C" 13%=water and wine... go figure

Personally I think it is a good idea to tax unessential "luxury" items at higher rate. Many of these items are highly processed, sweets and hard liquor. If the higher tax rate deters people from consuming great quantities, it's a good thing. And only people consuming them pay the higher price.  
 

Blue Moon
 
We took full advantage of our kitchen privileges. We ate out once a day, usually for lunch, and fixed elaborate salads and sandwiches for dinner. 
 
We felt at home in this friendly hostel. We pulled out the deck of cards (as usual) at around 6, and listened to Freakonomics, TED talks or other interesting or fun podcasts while enjoying one of the local nectars. Love that Tawny Port;)
 

  
June 21-23 - LAGOS

Sunday, June 22, 2014 
 
Today we checked out the waterfront. At the mouth of the Bensafrim river stands the Fortress da Ponte da Bandeira across the street from the 15th century Church of Santa Maria which reminds me of the Missions in California. 

We spent some time on the pier taking in the coastline before we hiked along the bluff tops to Praia Dona Ana. It afforded great views over the lovely coves where sun-worshipers get their fix in beautiful settings. Rock pinnacles and caves dot the coast. The steady breeze kept us comfortable. We took a big loop from there and stopped at a small Spar supermarket for a few supplies. 


...We passed a miniature golf course where colorful statues made us stop and take a few snaps. Continuing, we entered Old Town, through a gate in the stone city wall, and then passed some beautiful graffiti on several buildings and walls. We managed to find our hostel without getting too lost. 

Monday, June 23, 2014
 
Today we walked along the riverfront lined with stalls selling beachy clothes, jewelry, scarves and purses. All made in China which meant the price was right but quality not;)
 
We took care of our sushi craving at Osaka. We just tell the friendly waitress, from Beijing, that we like "the usual" and, shortly thereafter, she shows up with a plate of avocado rolls, sea bass, nigiri and large dose of sashimi. Yummm. 
 
Most people come to Algarve for the sun and sand and, of course, the quaint towns and villages where they spend time relaxing on one of the plentiful terraces with a cool brew and watch the world go by. We have done plenty of the former in our days but now we enjoy a beach walk and a hike and, apart from that, we try to avoid direct sun as much as possible. Now we enjoy a cool breeze and tall drink while parked on a terrace. 
 
Dave has been complaining of numbness and tingling in his right foot. Nerve damage. Now when he walks he had to lift his knee high because he cannot lift his toes on that leg. I worry but he thinks it is a pinched nerve in his back. We have to keep an eye on it.