November 3, 2014
GANGTOK to TASHIDING
Shared taxi 200 Rs per seat
Stayed at an unsigned Yellow House for 300Rs per night, double with shared bath bucket shower
 
Sleeping In 

After two days of pre-dawn starts, we decided not to set our alarm. We knew it might mean a late start to Tashiding, but we needed to catch up.

We decided to have breakfast at the hotel which turned out to a challenge for the restaurant staff who apparently do not see a lot of foreigners. We ordered the American breakfast which included "eggs as you like", cornflakes, juice and coffee or tea. I went through an elaborate description of sunny side up eggs, the white cooked and yellow soft. We have been long enough in India not to be surprised when an oily omelet appeared. I should have been satisfied that it didn't taste of masala or chili. But we had them try it one more time. In spite of our request for cold milk for the cornflakes, milk arrived hot. The toast arrived long after the eggs which they got right, but it had cooled. We appreciated their effort and left it at that. 

 
Waiting for the Sumo
 
During the day, the temperature is mostly T-shirt weather. 
 
About 10 am, we made it to the shared taxi stand, 500 meters up the road from our hotel.
  
The first available taxi with any seats, let alone three seats behind the driver, was at 1:00 pm. We bought our three seats. Getting three seats guarantees us some breathing space. Just then, Dylan showed up and hoped to score a seat to Pelling. Sylvain arrived later, also going to Pelling. They also had to wait until 1PM.
 
We decided to plant ourselves at Domino's Pizza in relative air-conditioned comfort and a clean toilet. That is worth a lot. They didn't mind us sitting there for close to three hours. We did buy a drink and then a lunch pizza before we left. 

 
Dave Slept 5 More Hours

How Dave slept through most of the 5 hour ride to Tashiding blows me away. Music blared and it was an ultra bumpy ride. The girl on his left got the brunt of his dead weight leanings in the turns. The sumo driver took a break stopping at a small village. Our pizza was holding us over so we did not join the others for a bite.  
  
At around 6:30 pm, we pulled into the one and only road in town. It was dark. We had a recommended Guest House from Sonam, Sikkim GH. Dave checked it out and said it was like the ultra basic guesthouses on the Everest Trek, grimy sheets and a squat toilet. He checked out the only two other accommodations in town and decided on a no name one next to the gas station. It was relatively clean, spacious room and bathroom (with throne) downstairs. And all that for a mere 300 Rs ($4.88) The lady even offered to heat a bucket of water for a shower for us. 
 
We walked back down the hill to the only place to eat in town, Blue Bird Guest House and Restaurant. The rooms were a bit grimy but they know how to make momos and they even had some ketjap, a sweet soy sauce type condiment. 
 
The community is peaceful and definitively not a popular overnight stop for tourists. The main draw is the Tashiding Monastery (Gompa), which is the most sacred and holiest monasteries in Sikkim. The monastery is located on hilltop outside of Tashiding town. We plan to hike to it tomorrow and continue on to Pelling in afternoon. 



November 4th, 2014 
WALK TO TASHIDING MONASTERY 
    
Early Start to the Gompa Founded in 1641

We got an early start on our hike to Nyingmapa-school Tashiding Gompa. The guy from Bluebird gave us some instructions. We followed the main road south out of town until we came to the landmark mani wall and, a bit further, to a beautifully painted Tibetan gate. Beyond the gate we left the paved road and followed a jeep road until a helpful local pointed us to the short-cut stone walking path leading up steeply through thick bamboo forests and cool but humid jungle. 
 
Guess humid is a given in the jungle. We soon shed our polartec jackets. Eventually, we crossed the jeep road and continued on a path up which was lined with tall prayer flags. 

School kids in dark blue uniforms passed us going down. Now those kids can brag to their kids how they hiked a challenging trail to school everyday. Higher still, we passed through a small community with colorful homes, many with potted blooming chrysanthemums and marigolds. We expected arrive at the gompa at each turn but the locals along the way said to keep going. "It's just ahead."

Both Dave and I have knee problems. My knee blew up like a balloon at a county fair. We took it easy and finally made it to the top where we entered the Gompa complex through another beautiful gate. I forgot the pain as we enjoyed visiting the colorful and atmospheric religious buildings. We twirled the huge old squeaky prayer wheels in the first building. A few monks came in to prepare for ceremony and left. The main building is getting a mayor face lift on the outside but we were able to enter and had the place to ourselves. Beyond the main hall is a compound with 41 Chorten including the Thongwa ̈Rangdol, said to absolve the sins of anyone who gazes upon it. 

From the LP

Founded in 1641 by one of the three Yuksom lamas, the monastery’s five colorful religious buildings are strung out between more functional monks’ quarters. Beautifully proportioned, the four-story main ̈ prayer ̈ hall has a delicate filigree topknot, with wonderful views across the semi-wild flower garden towards Ravangla. The Dalai Lama chose this magical spot for a two-day meditation retreat in 2010. Notice the cracks left in the marble flooring by the 2011 earthquake.
 
Beyond the last monastic building, an unusual compound contains dozens of white chortens, including the Thongwa ̈Rangdol, said to absolve the sins of anyone who gazes upon it. More visually exciting is the golden Kench ̈ Chorgi ̈ Lorde stupa. Propped up all around are engraved stones bearing the Buddhist mantra om mani padme hum; at the back of the compound is the engraver’s lean-to.

 
 
No Room on the 1:00 o'clock Sumo

By noon we made it back to town. A huge toxic smoke wafted over town. Someone was burning a huge a mound of plastic, we presumed garbage. No one bats an eye at that. 
 
Our first stop was Blue Bird Restaurant for another plate of momos. We were told that our last chance to get to Geysing was between 1:00 & 2:00 pm at the share taxi stand. From there, there would be frequent transport to Pelling.
 
We made sure to be there on time by arriving early. And were totally bummed when finally, at 2:30 pm, the overloaded jeep showed up.... no room for us. We dragged ourselves back up the street to our yellow guest house. I felt like one of those porters I pity, lugging that heavy pack back up to our guesthouse. 
 
It rained for several hours after the sun went down. We just stayed in, played cards and read. Neither of us had much of an appetite.