November 11 & 12, 2014
Cherrapunjee Holday Resort
Wiki & Other Info About the Bridges and Cherrapunjee:
The local Khasi people do not know when the tradition of living root bridges started. The earliest written record of these bridges is by Lieutenant H Yule in 1844. The living root bridges of Cherrapunji, Laitkynsew, and Nongriat, in Meghalaya, India are handmade suspension bridges created from the aerial roots of living banyan fig tree, ficus elastica. The pliable tree roots were trained to grow through betel tree trunks until the figs' roots took root on the other side. The process can take up to 15 years to complete. The useful lifespan of the bridges is thought to be 500–600 years.
This area is reportedly the wettest place on earth with an average yearly rainfall of 11,777 mm = 38.6 feet. In 1974 it rained an unimaginable 24555.3 mm (i.e. 80.56 feet!!).
And here we are in November with picture perfect weather. It is around 74°F during the day and cools down to pleasant temp at night. We see very few mosquitoes.
Getting Psyched about the Bridges
We sat with Josh for breakfast. He had hiked down to the root bridges yesterday. He warned us it is a real butt kicker plus we had read the descriptions of other travelers. We decided to make it a little easier for us and have a taxi drive us the 5 km to the trail head (200Rs/$3.25)
Into the Chasm
We left at 10 am. From the trail head, cement steps slice steeply through the jungle.....down down into the canyon. We took about an hour, taking lots of pictures chasing butterflies and taking up close looks at huge spiders in their webs.
We arrived in small village of Nongthymmai of about 10 families. A tiny store sold locally found wild cinnamon, pepper and delicious honey. There we purchased entrance tickets (10Rs per person and 20 Rs per camera, more for video) Clear signage showed arrows to the long bridge (upriver) and double decker bridge (down stream).
.....We opted for the closer long bridge. After we crested a small knoll, our eyes feasted on the longest of the amazing root bridges, span between two trees on opposite sides of the river. A small root ramp got us at bridge level and one by one we had to cross these man made wonders. It did feel a bit wobbly in some places and I couldn't shake my insecurity. We frolicked around for close to an hour. I figured the other bridges would be a lot like this one so I decided to make my way up the long steps.
Dave continued on to the double decker at Nongrait village by going down river, over the knoll to the other river and across the steel cable suspension bridge. From there, is was a short distance back up stream to the double decker. The double decker is a shorter pair of bridges which are stouter than long bridge. Swimming holes nearby and along the way look inviting. They have an aptly name Serene home stay in the village which is a great way to stay on the river and have a long time to explore of the villages, waterfalls and bridges. The natural beauty of the area is super. Nongrait village also imposed a nominal fee to visit there bridges.
Back to the Top
It took me an about an hour and a half to get to the top. About half way as I sat down to take a rest, a young woman caught up with me. We started talking and she told me she was the teacher for ten children. She makes the trek every school day. I asked it if it got easier. "No, it was and still is hard" she told me as she slowly walked on. I followed slow and steady behind her. For me, the top came a lot sooner than I expected. I continued on and walked the 5 kilometer back to the resort where I was greeted with the customary glass of cool water when I stepped inside. Life is good.
I had showered and relaxed with an hot lemon tea when Dave returned. He told me that the double decker bridges were not that far from where we had split up and that I should have continued there with him. There was a nice waterfall on the way with crystal clear blue water.
In the evening, Josh played a 10 minute documentary video of the bridges made in the rainy season. The torrents of rushing water were mind boggling. It did not look like the sleepy little stream we say today.
Fiscus Elastica - Living Root Bridges
Tuesday, November 11, 2014
Laitkynsew, Meghalaya, Meghalaya, India
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