18&19: Tour--Castle, Lesser & Old Towns, Boat

Saturday, August 18, 2018
Prague, Prague, Czech Republic
6-hr Guided Walking Tour, including lunch, was an overview of the main Prague sites and did not spend time touring the inside of the buildings. Therefore, we came back on our own the next day to many of the same places. Combined both days into this one blog.
Tour Van pickup at the hotel. (On our own we took a tram to the hill top) 
Hradcany, the Castle District. Met Michaela, the guide for the group of about fifteen people, and walked the lovely streets passing amazing looking buildings:

Hradcany Square is "one of those impressive squares that embodies all of the charm, grandeur, and allure of Europe." Some of the most beautiful palaces in Prague are here: Martinicky, Sternberg Palace, and most impressive of all the Schwarzenberg Palace, a truly dramatic building entirely covered in sgraffito. (Had to look this up: it's a technique for decorating by applying layers of plaster tinted in contrasting colors, then scratching off parts to reveal the underlying layer.) Michaela took us into the courtyard for a more detailed look. Perfect place for the art exhibitions that are housed here. 
On our own, we spent time near the Cernin Palace (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) and
Loreta, a pretty baroque monastery consisting of a cloister, Church of the Lord's Birth, a Holt Hut, and Clock Tower. The 27-Bell Carillon in the Clock Tower has a world-famous chime. Perfect timing  being here on the hour to hear the famous bells.  

 
Archbishop Palace, next to the Castle entrance, is imposing and elegant with four wings and courtyards. 
Dominating the top of Hradcany Hill is PRAGUE CASTLE COMPLEX, which has had a fortress here since the 9th century. The complex consists of churches, palaces, shops, offices. Entered on the west side at Giants' Gate. Spiffy-looking guards in front. Through the Second Courtyard with the baroque Lion's (Kohl's) Fountain (1686).  

Joined the masses of tour groups trying to follow their guides; good thing Michaela had a bright red umbrella. Very long line to enter the Cathedral (waited about 35-40 min). Thankfully, Michaela's history/stories made waiting interesting, especially Legend of "Saint Vitus Dance."
 
St Vitus Cathedral was started in 1344 but wasn't actually finished until 1929.
Beautiful Entry Doors have large, bronze reliefs adorned with scenes from the Cathedral's history and legends about St. Wenceslas and St. Adalbert, a missionary who brought the Christian religion to Bohemia. Right above the entrance door is a gorgeous classic round Rose Stained Glass Window depicting a biblical scene.
 
On the tour, we only went into the Cathedral's Vestibule, which is free. On our own, we did the Interior Audio Tour. Another jaw-dropping church! Soaring ceilings supported by massive pillars, and diagonal vaults creating archways; incredible looking sun rays coming through the windows.

Many elaborately decorated side Chapels dedicated to a specific saint and statues everywhere. The Pulpit is covered in gold leaf and Renaissance portraits of famous Bohemian saints and royalty. 

Stained Glass Windows everywhere; their bright colors glowed so vividly on this very sunny day. In the Archbishop's Chapel, the majestic window is painted, and you really notice the vivid saturation of colors and sharp lines. Art work in churches is always amazing, and this one is no exception. Exceptional-looking Pipe Organ with three carved wooden doors below them. 

Walked outside into the Third Courtyard with fountain and tall column, a monument to WWI Victims. Thought we were finished being impressed and looked up at the Cathedral's imposing Gothic Towers with spires, copper-oxide green baroque cupola. T
The astonishing Golden Gate doors are decorated with colorful gilded mosaics of a stunning scene of the Last Judgment. (from 1370)
Old Royal Palace: impressive rooms especially Vladislav Hall and the King's thrown 1559 in Diet Room. Great views from balcony. 
St. George Square: Enjoyed a good lunch in the Cafe's outdoor patio. Basilica was the second church built on the castle complex as a convent in 973; reconstructed after a fire in 1142. The simple interior of thick stone walls and dark wood has a lovely alter and vibrant fresco above the nave. 

Golden Lane: A street of tiny, colorful houses where workers lived. Now is consists of historical exhibits and souvenir shops. The bitty rooms were so crammed with people it was impossible to go inside most of them. 

Dalibor Tower: The round tower is shrouded in legend. Dating back to 1496, the tower, which served as a prison until 1781, is named after its first inmate. The skeletons sure gave an eerie feeling.

South Gardens. Walked out above the gardens with sweeping views of Prague from up here. SemiCurricular Terrace perfect spot overlooking Lesser Town, especially the domes and steeples of all the churches. The green dome of St. Nicholas sure dominates the skyline. Ginormous granite bowl; hard to believe it's made from one piece of granite. Lovely spot to enjoy a gelato.
Steps and more steps, 101 to be exact, leading from the Castle to
LESSER TOWN (Malá Strana). The steps come down to Thunovska street, the location of the oldest medieval tavern in prague--U krále Brabantského.  


So glad we were with the tour the first time as we followed the guide zig zagging along beautiful streets through archways leading to more streets and squares learning about the churches, statues, buildings, etc.
Malostranské, the main square, has so many beautiful buildings. The most impressive of all is the grand St Nichols Church, a baroque masterpiece featuring an impressive 230-ft dome with a Holy Trinity fresco painted on it.
Every time we turned, there was another square with an interesting statue. 

John Lennon Wall memorial filled with graffiti related to his life, pieces of lyrics from Beatles' songs, and other designs relating to local and global causes. Wall has an interesting History: Post 1948 this compound wall of the Knights of Malta was used mainly for people protesting communist takeover. In the 1960’s known as the “Crying Wall” and was associated with protest relating to protest text/lyrics and art. The murder of John Lennon, the wall became an outpouring of grief and protest against his death.

Čertovka (Little Prague Venice), a very picturesque man-made channel off the Vltava River, has several medieval mills with waterwheels. Best view is from the bridge.
BOAT CRUISE:  So nice to relax for 50 minutes and enjoy the sites along the river: impressive buildings lining the banks connected by historical bridges, graceful swans, and thankfully a narrative in English.

Walking tour continued into OLD TOWN (Staré Mesto).
Clementinum (Klementinum) large complex of historic buildings next to the Charles Bridge: National Library, several churches, Mirror Chapel. 

Old Town Square
: Highlights: Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall;  
Tyn Church with iconic gothic towers;  St Nicholas baroque church built in the 18th century, Jan Hus Monument.
Interesting to hear about the Prague Meridian,  a line in the cobblestone square used between 1652-1918 to tell when it was noon--when a shadow from a nearby column was cast on the line, it was exactly noon. 
Celetna Street to U Pavouka medieval tavern for lunch. Cool place; ok food. 

Parizska Street (street of Paris): lovely tree-lined avenue, beautiful buildings, and mega high-end stores. Enjoyed the stroll window shopping. As we passed a jewelry store, Michaela pointed out "Moldavite," a light green stone that comes from a mederoite and are only found in the Czech Republic. Twice we saw these Bicycle Bars going down the street. What a riot!

Jewish Quarter (Josefov) is a preserved complex of historical Jewish monuments that include six synagogues. Nice to have a guide explain all the history here.
Micaela left us at Puro, her favorite gelato. She was a wonderful guide, and we enjoyed the fast-paced day with the group.

Walked back along the river; great view of Lesser Town and the Castle. 
Musicians in period attire were playing along the arch walkway between the two Lesser Town Towers--how cool!
U Tri Pstrosu (means Three Ostriches) for dinner. Pizza and salad--good, not the best ever. After seeing the pig knuckle dinners, Randy had to come back the next night to try it--delicious! Lois had the rabbit, which was also great. (Reminder of mom's rabbit dinners after dad would go hunting.) Thoroughly enjoyed this place and would highly recommend these dinners. The staff here was so much fun joking around with each other and us. Tables are close and we enjoyed talking with people sitting next to us from England and Australia. 
Spent our last evening strolling down Mostecka street, the main street in Old Town. Amorinom for gelato, really good and really unique by creating a rose out of the gelato. 
Prague is amazing by day and even more amazing by night especially from the Charles Bridge. Lights of the city illuminate the dark sky. If that wasn't enough, even fireworks over the river.  What a great last evening in Prague!
Other Entries

Comments

2025-05-22

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank