Sarapiqui, Heredia Province, Costa Rica
the most scenic road
today
we are slowly moving towards the Caribbean Coast. So that we don’t
have a too long drive on the one day we go to the ferry – we
decided today we will drive halfway there and on the way we will do
something...
our
goal was the Catarata del Toro near the Juan Castro Blanco NP. And
first we have to go some curvy roads up and up... back through Gercia
– Sarchi and then we start out new roads. The hwy 708 we took is
paved (but we had some stretches with huge potholes in the road), the
road is very narrow: one time we had a large truck in front of us,
the road was so steep, that the truck went so slow, that our car
nearly was in standstill and even in first gear was giving out. We
drove u-turn curves which went to steep up hill that you wondered
that the car didn’t stop.
Once
up high the road went along the hill and we had some of the most
amazing views: once we could actually see the Poas volcano: we saw
the vapor coming out and part of the crater. It was so super amazing.
We
knew we are close when we crossed the blue river and then finally we
arrive at the:
Catarata
del Toro
So
why do we drive so out of the way to see another waterfall – yes
Costa Rica is a country of waterfalls and we still missed some of the
big ones – but we read “If you think you have seen it
all and did not see Catarata del Toro then you have not seen
anything”.
After
paying we started out and after a view steps we could see the
waterfall from the top: what is so unique about this waterfall is
that the falls go inside an old dormant volcano. After admiring the
view we start the way along the crater rim and then first concrete –
later more natural steps down: on the way up we counted because there
were so many: 460 steps!!! and no that does not count in when the
trail goes up and down and you kind of have to go over some rocks at
the end.
What
is very unique is looking up the crater – seeing the moss and the
trees – the huge 100 m free fall waterfall and right near it some
funky colors, which are from chemical deposits. It must be at some
times super wet here – because the tree stumps down there are
covered in thick moss. It is amazing and for sure not visited by
everyone.
At
least at the bottom they have several benches so that you can sit and
rest before you go the 460 steps back up (by the way most of them are
in the sun, so you will be for sure not cold). Back up we went
towards the Jardin but soon decided to turn around the rain forest
was too boring for us.
After
a short break Paul agreed to do another 2.5 hour walk– after we got
told it’s only 30 Min one way (kind of)
The
Blue River and the waterfalls
with
us another couple we went first down the road and then through a
gate: there we got told to follow the road and we can’t miss it,
until we come to the river – there we will meet a guide who will
show us to the waterfall. And no it’s not difficult all is level...
so
we start walking and someone build a real funky walkway out of stones
– I mean we decided to walk on the earth near it.. then we had to
cross a super funky bridge – like walking on a beam – then we had
to go between the cows... and then the shortcut down the hill – and
see there more steps!!! at the end we are at the blue river...
further down we saw the blue pond where several people were swimming.
And then shoes off – flipflops on and we crossed the river – then
a little bit along the river and we could see the first super amazing
waterfall going into the blue river.. now the flip flops off and we
scrambled over the rocks – the flipflops on and more through the
river and over stones to the next fall: amazing – this bright deep
blue color. We went a little bit in and took pictures – but then we
started slowly back..
And yes there was a guide, he was super nice and helpful going with us through the river - so we didn't fall and loose our shoes or camera and find the best way around the stones. Only problem he did not speak one word in English - so he talked into the phone and the phone translated to us and visa verse.
There
is only one thing I regret: that we didn’t come to the blue falls
earlier and couldn’t stay longer to swim in them and enjoy them
more ... because we still had 1.5 hours to drive and the 30 Min walk
back... so the time here was way too short. This is really unique and
super special!! I don’t think we experienced something like that
before. That is one of our super highlights!!
It
goes downhill and we enter the flats where Sarapiqui is – you can
already feel the more Caribbean warm and humid air. Lucky for us we
found a Panaderia – and they even had chocolate cake!!! the bank
was right near it: so we can get enough cash, because in Tortugueras
you have to pay all in cash and there is no ATM. And then we arrive –
first we drove by the big Spa-Hotel sigh, we thought that can’t be
ours it looks too fancy... so we called and yes it is ours. Ok so
reality is not always what you see: yes the sign is very fancy –
but the place is not: Paul was a little bit astonished that a room
can have space to sleep 3 people but only 1 chair and no table...
After a shower we feel fresher and then it’s time to repack –
tomorrow we will only take one suitcase with us.
By the way the girl who worked at the reception is from Nicaragua and she came here because the country is economical so instable. She told us her parents can't leave because they are lawyers and are not able to work in Costa Rica.
We
could kind of sleep in: a little after 7 am we are in the breakfast
room for breakfast – and I do think that Paul is not in total
favour of Costa Rica Breakfast: rice with beans, fried paintains...
good think we got some scrambled eggs and toast (but no jam)... and
plenty of coffee.
Where
to have supper
And
then we tried to find a place to eat: the internet is not totally
helpful – guess this is not tourist area so not a lot of reviews or
it shows you “nearby” places which are a long drive away. We
drove down the road and went into a restaurant – but they didn’t
speak any English and we couldn’t even communicate so we went to
then next: you know you are not in tourist area when no-ones speaks
English and also when there are no prices on the Menu. For ordering
we pointed on the Menu... but then if you are so much in no-where
land meals are cheap – it gets difficult if you don’t want to
eat black beans, because I do think Costa Rican’s have them for
breakfast – lunch and dinner. Oh and let's not forget the "background music": that means all the big trucks going by and either breaking or speeding up....
2025-05-23