Cortes Island I

Saturday, August 24, 2019
Gorge Harbour Marina Resort, British Columbia, Canada
Cortes Island  --  Aug 24 – 27 , 2019
Visit from Germany #2
This year we have twice visitors from Germany and both in August. Yesterday Larissa, Niklas and Noah arrived. They came in the middle of our renovations. Because we also took down all the kitchen cabinets: that means we are like camping at home. As well as everyone helped to carry out the kitchen cabinets
Crab catching at the Marina
If you come to Comox you have to see the Marina – after supper we drove down to check it out and went first on the Wharf to check for the Seals – and that’s where we got stuck. We saw the seals being lacy and we met a mom and daughter they were crab fishing. And so we learned a whole lot:
  • You fish them with a net and chicken meat
  • You throw it out and wait and pull it up and check if you have some crabs
  • We learned the difference between male and female – by the way you can only keep the male one and eat them, the female have to go back into the water because the can bread more crabs
  • The arms of them are super strong and they can cut of your finger – so being careful is advisable
  • They get then kept in a bucket of water – and for eating you only steam them for 10 minutes and then the meat is tender: you eat the one in the legs – if you want to eat the one from the main body you have to be careful not to eat the lung: you need around 4 crabs per person and it takes a long time to eat (ok so not for me)
  • Also when you fish here, you may catch a shark – but you have to eat them immediately, because the little sharks have no kidney, so the meat under the skin gets toxic quite fast.
We need Tim Hortons
Before leaving the cabinets get picked up and the roofing guys are here. Then we decided to get some donuts before leaving for coffee… first Tim Horton’s didn’t had that much variety – so we went to the next one and then we are on the way camping
Campbell River – Willow Point
A quick stop here so we have the first glimpses on Quadra Island and the ocean. There we also see the first wood carving: some bears for great picture taking. As well learn a bit about where we are at and about the history: a map from the area to check out which islands we are going to and then check out the big anchor
  • The first European in this area was Sir Francis Drake: the voyage 1577-1580 consisted of 6 ships (one of them was named Golden Hind)
  • Francis Drake claimed an area Nova Albion for England which run from Mexico to a secret location: Mitlenach Island (presumably the ships turned here because they realized the meeting of the flood tides
  • Before the Coast Salish lived in this area
  • The Europeans started to settle this area in the 1860s
before continuing on to the:
Wood carvings of Campbell River:
this year they have a super cool bench, one real cool carving it nearly has everything about our Island on it – you have to see it, and a dino ride for Paul instead of a Motorcycle. And then the last part so that we:
Snack time when waiting for the ferry:
we have a half hour to wait before we are ready for the ferry and unbelievable for Gine: it’s already snack time!! Even better the sun comes out a bit. And then we are the very first people to drive on the ferry – that means we have first row seats!!
Waiting at Heriot Bay
After only a short crossing over to the next ferry station – we have a whole hour, and with Heriot Bay Inn so close by, we walk over: the guys sit on the bench during Larissa and I went out on the wharf to check out the view. And after some relaxed exploring and enjoying the sunshine – the ferry comes – so we better get ready since we are 4th in line (that’s what happens when you are the 1st one going on and off a ferry)
And this is a historic hotel:
  •  It originally got established in 1895 by Hosea Bull: he was all a bookkeeper, preacher and watchman. And they transformed their home in a bustling hive of activity. Around here was at that time a logging camp and he run a logging camp and opened a sawmill, store, hotel, its own wharf and post office
  • After the original place burned down, the current hotel you can see was then rebuilt in 1912. By the way his wife passed away in 1905 and then he married the widow Helen who had prior hotel business experience.
  • After she died in 1924 Hosea went into receivership and lost everyghing and then disappeared
  • After several owners it finally in 1943 was converted back into a hotel
A tight fit on the Ferry
This ferry was cramped full, it was so tight that we couldn’t even open the back door to go out – so everyone had to climb out over the front seat. And then we went up and watched them getting the last vehicles on – really you can’t get much closer!!
We had some gorgous views first passing the Rebecca Spit – then onto the islands of desolution sound and finally when approaching Whaletown. It is one amazing and beautiful ferry ride and lucky for us, the wheater was great.
  • Did you know in 1860 here was a whaling station – but soon the fished out and then we take them out of business
A little bit late – but still time for a coffee when we arrived at Gorge Harbour and then it is time to set up the tent, get the air mattresses blown up and everything set up. We even had a bit time to check out the Marina Resort – which by the way is exceptional. There is a great Marina – BBQ area at the water (I think we have to check that one out) – then Niklas and Noah had to open a oyster: which then was happily eating by a cat!! We found the pool and discovered it is nice and warm – perfect to jump in at the end of a day.
Back it was time to get ready for supper: Gine first thought she forgot the Kebab sticks – but she brought 5 – so we decided to make 2 rounds for supper: that means supper takes a bit longer – but then we are here for camping.
A free concert
And we learned that there is a free concert, so after supper we went down to the Marina and enjoyed with a lot of other people the concert – it’s is beautiful when you can enjoy music overlooking boats in the harbour. What a luxury Camping!! Niklas is the 1st time camping – so I did had to point out to him, that this is not the norm.
What’s so special about Cortes Island?
  • it was named in 1792 by Galiano after Hernandez Cortes the conqueror of Mexico 
  • It is the entrance to Desolution sound
  • It was originally inhabited by Klahosse – the Coast Salish people
  • In 1866 the first white settler came: Michael Manson – today 1035 permanent residence live here
  • Electricity came here in 1967
Good Morning sunshine
When you wake up with a few sunrays tickling your nose – then you know it is time to get up – make a coffee and sit down at the dock to see the ships sparkling in the water. Because it was low tide we could see some orange sea stars on the rock – looks like to be a perfect day.
After breakfast it took a while and finally we are on the road:
They say it is one of the most popular hiking spots on the island – so we had to do it. First we drove by the hiking trail start – because we didn’t see the parking – after turning around we found a perfect parking spot (only later we got told that we blocked 2 parking spots and next time we have to park in straight – what they didn’t consider is, that there still couldn’t have any more parking because we would still have used up all the space and we would not be able to drive up there!!)
We walked through some funky forest full of ferns and then it went up over some funky stones – there was a lot of cool moss – and then up a few steeper areas and then we had an amazing view and it also was suddenly quite warm!! No more need for a long sleeve shirt. After a drink we went the adventurous hike down.
Was our next stop: as per GPS it should not been a big deal except that GPS does not know all and would have send into private property!! But we did found the parking and another short walk through the forest to the beautiful Hank’s Beach. Those stones are amazing and were perfect for a short little snack of apples and cheese… climbing around and enjoying the sunshine.
But more is on the list and on the go we are again
Original our plan was to go to Smelt Bay PP – but guess what they did a lot of road repair here on the island: that means they have a lot of gravel which Paul’s RV does not like… and so we went back to Gorge Harbour… after a coffee the paddle board was blown up and carried down and then it was on the water for 2 solid hours: mostly by Noah who really loved it and had it all under control… we also enjoyed a swim in the quite not so hot water and then after a jump in the pool and a quick wash down under the freezing cold shower we are ready for:
The Burger on the beach
They have some BBQ’s and picnic tables on a grass area right at the water with a wonderful view on the boats… it was a really thought after spot and we even shared the BBQ – but lucky for us we were there early enough to get a picnic table – I think it tastes the best out in the fresh air. On the way back we met our next door camper neighbours who collected fresh oysters on the beach and grilled them on the open fire – Niklas and Larissa were brave enough for tasting them… but that is not for me!!
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