4/11
Getting there
 
Although we were at the station (in Bangkok) well ahead of the scheduled departure time for the train to Ayutthaya, it was almost full and we had difficulty finding a seat and space for our huge bags. We could have taken the bus but the train is cheaper and offers more of a local experience, it didn't disappoint.
 
The 3rd class carriages are a little cramped but the seats are just about bearable for a 2 hour journey. There is no air con, just wooden shutters that slide up and down over the windows. Thankfully, leaving them open provides a cool breeze when the train is in motion. 
 
The view along the track as we head North, gives an interesting insight into the outskirts of city life. At each stop ladies laden with snacks and drinks board to sell their wares; stumbling through the sardine packed carriages. 
 
The locals travelling this route are interesting to watch. Some sleep on the floor whilst others busy themselves hanging out the windows. Children play quietly, behaving amazingly well for those so young, unlike what you would experience on an equivalent journey back in the UK.  
 
A kind lady indicated to us when we neared the Ayutthaya stop, so that we could extract our bags and shuffle towards the exit before we arrived. Otherwise getting off the train may have been a little difficult.
 
Outside the station numerous tuk tuks await, but these are distinctively different to the others found throughout Thailand. They have a dome shaped front that hangs down, very similar to the British police helmet. As elsewhere, these tuk tuks come in a variety of colours. 
 
If you are in a rush then negotiate a price with a tuk tuk driver to your hotel or the temples. With more time, cross the street and head down the road directly opposite the station, to the boat jetty. For 4 Baht the boat will take you across the river, which is a short walk to the busy Soi 2 where the majority of accommodation lies.
 
Chao Sam Praya museum
 
With the afternoon free we decided to head out to the Chao Sam Praya museum.
I was a little disappointed with this museum, that has poorly labelled displays and not a great deal in English. The treasures recovered from two of the main temples in Ayutthaya are on display here, and are quite beautiful, but it's often difficult to decipher which item is which.
 
General info
 
The tourism centre just round the corner, has a historical hall of Ayutthaya upstairs. It's free and has very informative exhibits covering some if they key temple sights, local life and dishes. In my view much more interesting than the museum.
 
Food generally seems a little more expensive here, except the curries, but perhaps that's just because we chose to eat in the touristy street (Soi 2) that is likened to Khao San Road. Incidentally it's nothing like Khao San, just a busy street in a quiet town.
 
8/11 - Temples
 
The last 4 days have been a little dull. Poor Phill has been suffering with quite a severe back problem, meaning he couldn't walk much. We're not sure what caused it, but fortunately it's almost improved enough for him to leave the hotel and join me to see a few sights.
 
I planned a day touring the temples hoping to cover off most of the sights within 'the island' part of the city. To get around it's necessary to rent a bicycle as the tuk tuks are a bit overpriced and not practical given the number of temples there are. However they offer tours starting at 200 Baht for 2 hours if you're short on time.
 
I headed out to Wat Phra Si Samphet first, it was lovely and quiet, no doubt as the day trippers from Bangkok hasn't arrived in their hoards yet. 
 
This site is probably the biggest one in Ayutthaya and in my view it's the best one inside the island. I was there for over an hour taking photos, making the most of having a lot of it to myself. There was a distinct smell of manure which I couldn't identify... perhaps the responsibility of the elephants down the road or the excess of stay dogs here?
 
Next door was a nice, more modern looking temple, so I wandered inside, taking a few pictures and awing at the huge golden Buddha. Then I headed off in search of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit. After cycling down the road and not finding anything I checked the guide book which said it was next door to Samphet (the first one I went to?). Turns out I'd already been in there and not realised... It's the one with the golden Buddha but I was expecting to pay an entrance fee.
 
To get out of the heat, I wandered through the trade centre/market nearby, which had some interesting food stuffs as well as some very nice local crafts. As I pushed the bike down to Khun Phaens residence, a wooden house on stilts, I felt a little disappointed. It looked nice, but nothing I hadn't seen before really, so I didn't go inside as couldn't be bothered to lock up my bike.
 
After that I took the long way round to Wat Lokayasutharam as the map wasn't very clear. Turns out it's about as far West as you can go and not correct on the map.  
Two tour buses were spilling out in front of the monument, so I got myself an overpriced can of drink and sat down on a bench to wait for the crowd to depart. When they finally left, I had the reclining Buddha all to myself, as well as the less inspiring Wat, behind it.
 
Phill had spent the morning battling with his ailment and was recovering enough to walk out and meet me for lunch. Fortunately I'd saved the best temples for the afternoon stint, so we slowly stumbled round admiring both Wat Maha that and Wat Ratch burna. 
 
Both were quite small sites and I found the first a bit overrated due to the famous Buddha head in a tree. It was of course worth seeing, but there wasn't anything special about the temple itself as the main stupa has been largely destroyed by the Burmese and was just a pile of rubble. 
 
Wat Ratcha burna was unique, as the main stupa was open to visitors, allowing them to climb inside. It's a bit claustrophobic in there but the pictures drawn on the wall were worth braving it. Note: having a torch is useful.

A day on a pushbike is enough at the best of times but in crazy traffic and with a rubbish map it was only done as there were no other options.
 
We spent the evening enjoying some amazing food at the Jazz bar (no jazz) and a couple of beers, whilst being entertained by the local quizmaster (just a barman who insisted on bamboozling us with fun puzzles) whose English was outstanding and knowledge of countries around the world, almost better than mine.
 
9/11

A miraculous recovery greeted me this morning, with Phill almost back to normal, but sporting an odd kink in his posture that made him stand like an S shape. He even felt up to taking a motorbike out so we could venture outside of the island to the numerous other sites around the city.
 
Wat Suwannawas - Temple near the bridge, not listed in the official tourist map. It's tiny but good for a quick photo.
 
Wat Na Phra Men - newer temple with the most beautiful old gold Buddha in town. It really was beautiful.
 
Wat Salapoon Waratham - Big white stupa near the King statue. When we arrived no one else was here other than a couple of cows (first I've seen in Thailand - ever!). As we turned to leave a tour bus arrived with a large number of tourists that had clearly not prepared their temple outfits for the day!
 
Wat Chaiwatthanaram - Big complex over the river with less damage than the majority of temples. This one is pretty impressive and is more often featured in postcards at sunset, viewed from the river. Despite signs all over the place stating not to climb the monuments, it is possible to from one entrance and there are some great views from the top of the central stupa. 
 
St Josephs Church - Disappointingly closed. We had to make do with the pictures of the inside on the poster on the wall. It looks beautiful in there.
 
Wat Putthai Sawan - The frontage of this temple looks modern and could easily be mistaken for just another temple. If you head inside and round the back, there's a beautiful white stupa hiding inside a square which is home to many golden seated Buddha's. Round the back is an impressive reclining Buddha.
 
Unfortunately we fell into a tourist trap at this temple as a little man was extremely persistent in giving us offerings and josticks for Buddha here. We both knew what was going to happen but he really made us feel like we couldn't say no. Afterwards he demanded our money and moved on to the next poor visitor. In disgust we left feeling robbed of the equivalent of a couple of quid. I really wouldn't have minded so much if we hadn't expected it to happen and more so if we had gotten some decent photos from the experience, but it all happened too quickly for me to even get my camera out and as always I was still mindful that I should be respectful of Buddha, despite this cretin ripping me off.
 
Portuguese settlement - was closed for work.

Wat Phanan Choeng - Chinese Buddhist temple near the river with large golden Buddha.