"The baths are segregated I am told. One for men and one for women. Take off all your clothes and place them in a basket. You may take a small towel with you to the communal bath, but you cannot take it in the tub with you. No bathing suits are allowed."
After finishing the tour of the Memorial Peace Park in Hiroshima, I caught a train for about an hours ride outside HIroshima to an island called Itsukushima
. It's in the western part of the Sea of Japan. It's more commonly known as Miyajima, meaning 'Shrine Island'.
I found the ferry to take me across the sea to the island. The island of Miyajima is one of the more scenic spots in Japan. It is full of history and is home to the Itsukushima Shrine, a World Heritage site. There are many well preserved shrines, temples and historical monuments on the island.
The shrine's main buildings are built over the water. The shrine has a number of buildings in it's complex. There is a prayer hall, a main hall and a noh theater stage. These are all connected by long boardwalks. The boardwalks are built on pillars above the sea.
The noh theater stage is unusual. It is square and made of wood. The roof is supported on all four corners by pillars. The stage is open on 3 sides. The back side is a wall with a painted image of a pine tree. The performers enter and leave the stage by a small bridge
.
Not only is the theater itself unusual, the play is something like I have never seen. Noh is a form of theater that consists of drama, music, and dance. It originated in the 14th century. All movements are slow. The language is poetic and the tone is monotonous. The costumes are elaborate and heavy. The themes usually relate to dreams, ghosts, or spirits from the supernatural world. All the performers are male. I wish I could see one of these things, but none are scheduled for tonight.
The common name of the shrine is Senjokaku. In Japanese it means, "pavilion of 1000 mats". Apparently it's name refers to the fact that it is the size of 1000 Japanese tatami mats. Right across from the Senjokaku is a 5-story pagoda.
I tour the pagoda but only take photos of the shrine from the shore. The reason I wanted to make the trip was to see the 'floating tori'. It's ranked as one of Japan's three best views and is what the island is best known for
.
The giant tori gate (and the shrine) seems to float on water during high tide. The tide is low now and I can walk out to the Gate. When high tide comes in, the bottom of the gate will be under water, and the gate will appear to be floating on water.
I look at the board. It says high tide will be a little after 7 P.M. I can stay the night on the island and catch the bullet train back to Kyoto tomorrow. That way I can see the Floating Tori.
You can stay overnight on the island at a traditional Japanese ryokan. A ryokan is a Japanese style inn with tatami floors, futon beds and Japanese style baths and cuisine. They are very popular with both Japanese and foreign tourists. This is one of the "real" Japanese experiences. You dress and act and eat like a traditional Japanese. Many people consider staying in a ryokan one of the 'must-do' things while in Japan.
They tell me in the evenings the island becomes much quieter and peaceful, because most of the daytime tourists have left
. The wild deer that roam the island sleep along the walking paths at night in the middle of town.
Staying in the ryokan will be more expensive than what I usually want to pay, but it's one of those 'once in a lifetime' things I want to do while I am in Japan.
There is a lot of emphasis on traditional style and atmosphere in a ryokan, so it often seems rigid and confining, not to mention intimidating for the first timer, I am told. They will fill me in on what to expect during my stay.
I will be given a Yukata. It means 'bathing clothes'. It is similar to a kimono, but lighter and more casual. It is worn as a bathrobe and loungewear and can be worn at all times. You can wear it to dinner and breakfast and to bed to sleep in. You can even stroll around town in it. Wow, sure sounds like a 'one wardrobe fits all situations' to me.
Once I check in someone will show me where to find my yukata and belt (obi), a jacket and socks
.
There are beautiful Japanese gardens to stroll through in the evenings and a traditional Japanese dinner will be served in true Japanese fashion. The next morning a Japanese style breakfast will be served. I look at the menu. There are a lot of dishes new to me. They all sound good and everything is included in the price of the room. This is something that sounds like a lot of fun and I am excited for this new experience.
Eating doesn't seem as important to me as to most travelers, so I don't talk it about it much. I just enjoy trying the local food, often without knowing what I am eating.This menu is something to mention, though.
The breakfast will include rice, it seems all of Asia uses rice as the main dish. There is a soup served and varieties of pickles. Fish, usually salted and seasoned salmon, is served. Tofu with dried fish shavings and soy sauce is part of the menu. She names other menu items that sound strange but I am eager to see what the breakfast is really like here
.
They have beautiful bathing facilities in the ryokan. Usually they are supplied by a hot spring (called onsen).
Next, my host explains the bathing. The procedure for the bath is to remove your clothes and place them in a basket provided. Then shower before entering the bath. There is a separate bath for men and one for women. This sounds fine to me.
Don't forget to wash yourself off before entering the bath with water, either from a tap or washbowl provided. Get in the communal bath with the other guests.
Japanese baths are enjoyed naked. Japanese baths ARE ENJOYED NAKED. JAPANESE BATHS ARE ENJOYED NAKED.
Wait a minute. Did she just keep repeating that or did my brain just stop listening to what else was being said?
It seems everytime I leave a country, there are things I leave behind that I did not get to see or do. Spending a night in a ryokan will be one of the things for Japan.
I still have enough time to get the ferry back to shore and get a late bullet train to Kyoto. It's night as the train pulls into Kyoto. From a distance I see the KYOTO TOWER. It is my landmark in Kyoto. Soon I will be at my hostel . . . in my shower . . . alone.
Bathing With Naked Men (Japan)
Wednesday, October 02, 2013
Miyajima, Chugoku, Japan
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Comments

2025-05-22
Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank
Paul K
2013-11-18
Larry, I'm so glad I didn't see certain pictures you could have posted of your bathing experience ! ;-)
usatexan
2013-11-20
Hi Paul. I knew you would be disappointed.