"I think the boat is taking on water in the back," someone says. Everyone is quickly putting their electronics, (iphones, ipods, ipads, tablets), into zip-lock or plastic bags, in case we have to swim or wade to shore. One older, Laos, woman has her hands clasped in prayer-like fashion like they do when they pay respect to Buddha. The long-boat is floating sideways down the Mekong River, pushed along by the current. Ahead there are rocks jetting out of the water. If the boat hits them going sideways, it will sink in a matter of minutes.

Our little group woke up this morning overlooking the mighty Mekong . It was a good nights sleep in the cool night air. The open walls of our deck allowed for just a faint sound from the river below. We all had a long day the day before, and i think we all slept very soundly. 

Slowly one by one we made our way to the primitive shower. We had just a short time before the boat would be loading. We have traveled about halfway, so far. Today, by nightfall, we should finish this 'EPIC JOURNEY'.

As we see Pak Beng in the daylight. it is a unique little town, not much more than a village really. There are no 7-11 stores here or Walmarts here. Actually, there's not much more than small wooden store fronts -- selling food and vegetables, mostly. 

There is a bus from the border to Loung Prabang, where we are headed. Most locals now take the bus instead of the boat. It is much faster. The people operating the bus will tell you not to take the slow boat, but take the bus instead . They tell you you will catch malaria or get robbed. You will drown in the muddy waters before reaching your destination.

You can also take the speedboat to Loung Prabang. It will get you there in much less time than the slow boat. If you ride the speedboat, you will be given a crash helmet and a life-jacket. The boat travels about 80k hour, coming within a few feet of the exposed rocks in the Mekong. You are told to wrape bags in plastic and wear a raincoat to protect you from the spray.

Speedboats passed us on the way on many occasions. The people were holding on for dear life. No chance to appreciate the lovely scenery or take photos. It cannot be a relaxing trip. I chose the slow boat.

Besides, the slow-boat is one of those 'trips of a lifetime' that everyone that has a chance to take --  and does not --  regrets later. It's one of the most legendary trips in Southeast Asia for backpackers .

Looking out the side of the boat, every once in a while there, among the jungles covering the steep hills, are a group of small huts. They are made of bamboo and grass. The only way to civilization for these people is by river. Children sometimes play in the muddy waters along the shore. Gardens are planted along the banks and sometimes I see people working their gardens.

 Every once in a while the boat steers toward the shore to let a local off or pick someone up. Often they jump from the shore to the boat, or have someone bring them on a smaller boat.

 This is how our boat became damaged. Right here I would like to say "This day began like any other day". It just sounds right. But, that would not be so. No day while traveling like I do begins like any other day. They are all so very different. People and places are always different. Things are always strange and new.

Anyway, we had just turned toward shore to pick up a local man . There was a long-boat anchored near shore and he came walking out on it to reach our boat, where he jumped aboard.

Heading back to deep water, there was a loud bang. The captain was turning the wheel frantically, but could not steer the boat. Then, the engines died.

Since we were heading out to deep water, the boat was sideways to the current. The two young crew hands onboard were talking excitedly to the captain in Laotian. One crew member ran down the aisle to the back of the boat, then back to the captain to report the problem.

We cannot understand what is being said, but one of the foreigner passengers yelled, "I think the boat is taking on water in the back".

The boy jumped off the back of the boat into the water with a rope that was tied to the boat. He swam with the rope to a rock protruding from the water. He wanted to wrap the rope around the rock and anchor the boat . He made it to the rock and onto it. But, the current was too strong and pulled him with the rope off the rock. He swam back to the boat and ran back up the isle to the captain.

Then, the crew members all got long boards from somewhere. Not paddles, but long boards. They were using them, trying to turn the boat. The current was too strong, though and kept pushing the boat sideways down the river.

The wooden boat is very long. It makes a huge target going sideways down the river. The captain is always manuvering around the many outcroppings of rocks. If this boat continues floating sideways with the current, it can't be long before it broadsides some of those rocks, sinking the boat for sure. 

Everyone is busy putting their electronics in zip-lock bags and plastic bags. One girl says, "I wanted to take the bus, but everyone told me I had to take the slow boat at least once" . An elderly Laos woman has her hands clasp in prayer-like fashion.

These boats do sink, and people do drown, but usually it is from overloading. When we were loading up in Huay Xia, before starting the trip, a group started to come aboard our boat. The woman, I think she was a tour group leader, came on board. She looked at seats all up and down the boat and saw they were full, with a few people already sitting on plastic chairs in the isle.

She began to protest loudly to the people loading the boat. They argued for a good 10 minutes, but then finally, a second boat came for them to get on. A small group of 20 somethings were laughing and making fun of her protests, but Annie said, "she is doing just what she should do". I had read the same thing. If a boat is getting overloaded, do not get on. Get a group with you to protest and demand another boat. They will eventually bring another boat. Otherwise, they will overload the boat and this is why the boats sink and people get drowned on this trip .

So, back to the story. The boards the crew tried to use for paddles did not work and the boy could not anchor the boat to the rock. If the boat hits the rocks we will probably have to swim to shore. The boat does not have any life boats and there are no life-jackets.

If we were on the other side of the river, we might be able to swim a little and then wade ashore. But, the side we are on is deep. We will need to swim all the way to shore. I wonder how many on here cannot swim? What about the old woman. She has probably lived on the river all her life and learned to swim very young. But, is she still able to swim at her age?

I plan to swim and float with the current until I can grab something to hang onto, a rock or tree or something, or make it to shore. The backpacks are under the floor of the boat, in the hull. They will be lost if the boat sinks. My iphone, ipod, and ipad are all in zip lock and plastic bags . I put them in my day-bag. If it becomes too heavy while swimming I will let it go. Better for it to end up at the bottom of the muddy Mekong than me. 

My passport, ATM and credit cards and cash are all in zip-lock bags in my money belt around my waist. If I make it to shore, they will too. I have done all I can for now, and, like everyone else, will just wait. I can't help but wonder how cold the water is. It's the main thing on my mind now.

It seems our options are over. The swift current is pushing us along much too fast.

Then, from a distance we see a boat racing our way. It is a fishing boat. The fisherman had seen the trouble we were in and came racing our way. The crew and fisherman are yelling back and forth in Laotian, but we can't understand, of course. 

Then, the fisherman throws a rope that the crew ties to the boat . The fishermans boat is much smaller than ours. After the rope is tied, the fisherman tries to start his engine. He had cut it off while talking with the crew. It won't start. Now he is tied to our boat and we are both being pushed by the current. After a few minutes, he pulls the crank rope again and it starts right up.  (Was flooded, I think.)

He tries pulling us. His boat is too small to pull us to shore. (Then I think he tries pulling the front of the boat around so we are at least not going downstream sideways.) The current and our boat is pulling him instead. But, he has slowed us down a little bit.

In the distance, another fisherman has seen the trouble and comes speeding up. Repeat rope tying. Now the two boats try pulling us to shore.

With both fishing boats roped to our boat, together they pull us toward the shore until our boat is up against the river bank. The water is deep enough that our boat can be anchored, using the 2 fishing boats, right next to the bank .

The passengers jump off the side of the boat onto the sandy banks of the river and the crew follows.

One of the crew members goes under water at the rear of the boat. He returns to shore to get some tools. After a while of back and forth in the water, they bring out the propeller. It is not broken. I think the propeller shaft must have sheared when it hit the rock.

We climb the sandy banks and explore the area a little bit while the crew works below.

About an hour later the crew and fisherman have the propeller repaired. We are all loaded back on the boat. As we pull away from shore, the two fishing boats head in the opposite direction. 

Looking out the side of the boat, we all give them a big round of applause and big waves for saving us from a cold swim, or worse.

As we continue up the Mekong, we pass the many outcroppsing of rocks coming up out of the river . Just a couple of hours before, these were our biggest fear. Now they are objects of beauty for our cameras. The scenery becomes truly spectacular. The greenry of the lowlands becomes replaced by grey limstone cliffs all around. They are perfectly set in the dense jungle, making a memoriable view.

I even see some working elephants on the banks. They are moving logs. The locals still use them here, like they have done for centuries in asia, as working animals. Most of the other passengers missed it. They were eating and talking about our near-tragedy instead. It was one of my best experiences on the river trip, seeing the working elephants.

The slow boat stops several miles from town. Once we climb the steep bank (some people need help with their backpacks and luggage), we hire a tuk tuk to take us into town.
 
Scenery that changes often, each beautiful in it's own way. Backpackers from around the world ... sleeping, eating, laughing together for two days. Sleeping on the river's bank in the middle of nowhere. Working elephants. Children playing in the muddy waters while the adults work the crops planted on the river banks. Small villages barley visible from the boat, hidden by the jungle, their only way to civilization is by the river. A shipwreck on the Mekong.............. An Epic Journey . . . YES INDEED!