"Cover Your Body," the sign says. You must have on a shirt, no bare chest.  No bikini tops. I am reading the sign ... not at a temple or official building, but at a Banks ATM machine. In big letters other signs nearby offer LAOS COFFEE. In other Asian countries, it is difficult to find good coffee. Hot tea is the thing. But, here, coffee seems to be king. I am in the land of Laos. What is this country all about? I came here on the spur of the moment, after the typhoon in the Philippines canceled my trip there.

It was almost dark by the time our boat docked outside the cit of Luang Prabang . Not long ago there was a dock in town, but, now the boat docks a few kilometers from town. You have to pay a tuk tuk to take you into town. 

I have noticed this trend developing since I visited Chiang Rai in Thailand, just before the Laos border. The bus company there had a bus station in the heart of Chiang Rai where busses departed from, but built a new one outside of town for the busses to arrive at. Just the busses from other cities, it seems, where tourists would be coming from. The busses for locals arrive at the old terminal, in town.

People say it is all about the 'tuk-tuk mafia'. They influence the officials or boat or bus companies to change the arrival place for the bus or boat arriving from out of town, so passengers have to pay a tuk tuk to get into town.

Now the tuk-tuk mafia has us docking outside the city of Luang Prabang, Laos. It's near dark as we arrive at the shore, and climb the steep hill . I make it up, finally. But some others need help climbing the hill with their large backpacks. Some stop a couple of times before making it to the top, but, finally, all are on the top of the bank. 

Once up the steep hill, we buy tickets for the ride into town on the small trucks. It's dark by the time we are unloaded in the center of town, near the night market.

The tuk-tuk driver points in the direction of the night market when I show him the address of the place I will stay. I have to walk through the tents that are set up each night by the sellers in the market. 

It is difficult to get through the market with my backpack. The tent poles are right next to each other, leaving barely enough room for one person to walk through while looking at the goods for sale. I am sure my backpack will knock one of the poles down and I will be the cause of destroying the entire night market on my first night in the city . I might become infamous here!

It's been a very long day on the boat and carrying the backpack around town, looking for my guesthouse, is tiring. It's even worse, not being sure if I am walking in the right direction. I ask along the way, but no one speaks English. Sometimes they look at the name of my guesthouse and call other Laotians over. They look and finally shake their heads. I continue in the direction the driver pointed, trying to dodge each tent pole.

After manuvering myself and backpack through the long market, I come out on the other end of it. I stop at a restaurant where a young worker is sitting, waiting on customers to arrive. He checks his smart phone (google maps) when I show him my address. Back the other way, he indicates. Can this be? The driver should know where the address is. Taking people to their destination is his business. But, the restaurant worker shows me the map. Yes, in the oppposite direction . 

I head back through the maze of tents I just walked through. It's a maddening turn of events. Managing to get myself back down the long street, where the night market is set up every night, and avoiding bringing down the tents, I finally come out on the other side. I am right back where the driver let me off. It is darker and later now.

I continue down the street. It is an exciting atmosphere here, but I am too tired to enjoy it right now. I stop at a tourist agency and ask. Yes, the address is a 10 minute walk further down this street. At least now I feel I am walking in the right direction. I have learned tour agencies are good at knowing the town. And, they speak English. So, if there is one nearby, they are good places for information.

I am here one day earlier than my reservation. I hope they have a bed for me. And, yes, it is no problem. They can take me one day early.

Once I put my things in the room, I walk back into town ....to the night market. The night market is just that. They bring their tents on moto bikes each night just before dark and set them up in the street. Traffic is blocked by barricades and only foot traffic is allowed. The next day the tents are gone and the street is full of motorbikes and autos and pedestrians.

It's fun to walk through now, without my load. Still, there is barely enough room to walk through the aisles. It you stop to look at some of the merchandise spread out on the ground, someone is wanting to push past you.

There are souveniers galore. And food galore. I see so many places I will want to eat at while here. Several buffet style tables are set up. Buffet meals are not as popular in Asia as in the U.S. But, I see 3 here tonight in the market. One is set up in a very small side street. Folding tables are set up and the food, most of which I do not recognize, fills them up. One of the buffets is vegetarian. It seems to be very popular with the tourists. It is only 10,000 kip ($1.25) for all you can eat. I will be back.

Lao Coffee signs are all around. I will definitely have to find out what it is like...but not tonight.

The follwing day I visited some of the temples near the place I was staying and walked along the river bank running along the edge of the town.