Our second day in Borroloola we took a drive out to King Ash Bay. It’s a fishing mecca and it was like caravan and boat city out there. We had a drive around but the club wasn’t open till night so we headed back to Borroloola. In the afternoon I did a load of washing then we went for a swim.
Up and on the road again the next day. We headed about 20km down the road in tandem with Ken and Susie and stopped at Caranbirini Conservation Reserve. This is like a mini lost city of rock formations and we did the 2km circular walk. It was really beautiful. We carried on through to Cape Crawford where Susie and Ken opted to stay the night. We decided we’d push on through to Lorella Springs. This was a bit of a sudden decision as we hadn’t been going to go in to there but a conversation the day before with our neighbours who’d been there made us decide to go. Although only about 130km from Cape Crawford it took us about 3 hours to reach the homestead. The road was nowhere near as bad as the Hellsgate one but still had quite a few badly corrugated stretches.
We checked in at Lorella Springs – what a professional well run operation. Its still a working cattle property but has a very busy caravan and camping park in the dry season. It covers over a million acres right to the western shores of the gulf. There’s miles of tracks to springs, waterholes, fishing spots, lookout, and caves with Aboriginal paintings. The amenities are basic but include flushing toilets and showers. There are no powered sites but there is water. There was a discount if you stayed 3 days so we opted for that. We got ourselves set up in a good position for the solar panels then it was time to head up to the homestead for happy hour. As usual we got chatting to a few people then headed back for tea and an early night as it had been a big day.
Next day after checking out at the homestead – part of their safety procedures – and getting a great amount of info from Rhett the owner we set off on an adventure. Our plan was to do a circuit outlined on the map which we’d also got good instructions for. The first stop was the Waterslide – a big area of sloping rock with a stream running down the middle into a beautiful cool pool but to get to it we had a 500m clamber up and down over rocks of all shapes and sizes. We got there and had a dip in the pool then climbed up on the rock to consider whether or not to attempt the slide – which Rhett assured us was good if you kept to the right to avoid the bumpy bits. It was at this point that the adventure went a bit pear shaped as Craig slipped and fell landing on his shoulder.
He was in a lot of pain and it was pretty obvious from the big hole in his shoulder that he’d dislocated it. Anyway without going into a blow by blow account we managed to get him upright and made our way back to the car very slowly (and painfully for him)– up and down these bloody big boulders. He said he was ok to drive one handed so we headed the 14 km back to the homestead to find out where he could get treatment for it. The lady at the homestead was great and said the nearest health centre was at back at Borroloola – a 3 hour drive away – much of it over those often rough roads. We went back to the van to get some supplies of painkillers and grab a change of clothes as we thought we’d have to stay the night there and come back again the next day. It was then that Craig said that he thought it might have gone back in to place. We eased up his Tshirt which had been pulled down over his arm and shoulder and amazingly it had gone back into place on its own. What a relief and no need to travel all that way there and back. There’s no doubt that he had a very lucky escape.
It’s still pretty painful and he’s a bit limited in his range of movement and has no strength in it but everyday its getting a bit better.
We had a quiet afternoon in the van then grabbed a couple of icy cold beers and went down to the hot spring beside the homestead. Bliss – and the hot water really helped Craig’s shoulder. Then it was time for happy hour.
Suzie and Ken had arrived mid afternoon and they’d had their own disaster – the window at the back of their motorhome hadn’t been properly closed and the inside was absolutely covered in red dust.
They spent most of the next two days cleaning it and washing all their clothes and bedding.
The next day was quiet for us as we didn’t want to go too far as our tyres aren’t all terrain and Craig would struggle to change a tyre at the moment – so just around the homestead and into the hot pool in the afternoon with Ken and Suzie then up to happy hour with them and home for tea. But what an amazing place. Maybe one day we’ll get back .
On the move again the next morning back down to Heartbreak Hotel at Cape Crawford. It took us about 3 hours and we just parked up drive through since we were only staying one night. We went across to the roadhouse for happy hour and got chatting to a few people as you do. One was a truckie working with Kilara Transport. Craig asked where he’d come from and he said Gladstone - and he lives in Calliope. Turns out he does the run from Gladstone up to McArthur Mine every week. Back to the van – tea and bed.Yesterday we got on the move sharpish again as we were heading up to Daly Waters and the word is that its really busy at the moment and you need to be early to get a site in the main park. We got here around 1pm and managed to get a powered site. For the next two or three house the road into the pub was like Pitt Street in Sydney – caravan after caravan. We were last here 5 years ago and thought it was an icon then but they’ve obviously worked hard to give it super iconic status with lots more interesting items dotting the landscape – old cars, helicopters etc. The beer garden at the pub has also been extended and has a stage and they have entertainment every night. So after making a start to this post and catching up on messages and emails after being off the air for 5 days, we headed on over to happy hour which was from 4 to 6, then we had tea – barra bites for me and a burger for Craig – both delicious. The band came on at 6 and played a great variety of songs. I got talking to a lady in the queue to order tea (as I do!!) and it turned out she came from Gracemere though previously had a Brahman stud out at Jambin. She and her husband joined us (Gary and Janice) and we had a lovely evening together and headed back to the van around 8.30pm.
Shirley J Walker
2021-05-28
wow your trip even with the occasional blip (ie Craigs shoulder, hope by now its improved out of sight) sounds great, have you been to the Lost City out from Heartbreak Hotel, chopper flights were cancelled a few weeks back. We did it 1997, amazing place. Only stopped at Borroloola to stock up, interesting place 1997 on pay days. Can't remember the name of the station but we stayed further along and between the 2 vehicles bought a few cartons of cheap VB's, first mistake it was VB , second mistake it was cheap and for good reason on closer inspection well past it's use by date, come in suckers even though it was off still had to drink it. Whats the saying "if it walks like a duck, sounds like a duck, then its a duck". All part of the adventure!
Lou
2021-05-28
Glad Craigie’s shoulder popped back in by itself, a lucky escape as you say. What a great adventure the pair of you are having, it looks and sounds amazing. It’s great to have no set timetable and to just explore as you feel like it. All’s well here and we had a great Lorna lasagne in at the Browns last night. I got to hug my wee brother and Cammy for the first time since March 2020 which was lovely ( I’d seen Lorna and Lloyd the week before when we went to Oban). Happy day!
GAIL
2021-05-30
WOW!!! What a trip, all looks so very lovely. I am enjoying this as quite a few place names I have read in novels over the years! Your photos as usual, are amazing. Hope the shoulder is less painful now, I cannot believe how lucky you were Craig, for it to return to its rightful arm place. In future, remember a frozen bag of peas (or anything frozen) does help alleviate pain like that,not that it will happen again I am sure All well here, still enduring that mizzley misty rain we get, then 2 fine days out of nowhere, and then back to cold wet weather! be good, Love The Flynns