We had set our alarms for 06:00 but as
usual, I was awake before that so everyone was showered and breakfasted in good
time for our planned departure. The trouble was, the forecast was not good. At
07:00 it was raining quite hard and in the distance we could hear thunder
booming. Thundery showers were promised for the whole of the passage across to
Ystad, a distance of some 35 miles and the wind was predicted to be gusting F7.
In short, all the makings of a stay-in-harbour day. Tomorrow’s forecast was
much better and normally, Julie and I would have stayed put, as we have time to
spare. However, Jon & Elaine only had a couple of days and they wouldn’t
like to spend one of them hanging about in Hammerhavn, so we decided to take a
gamble and go.
Our Polish friends were ready for us and by
07:30, we were helping them remove their lines from our boat and the shore and
we were soon off and they took our space alongside. By now the rain had eased right
off as we headed out to sea in flat calm conditions under the lee of the land.
Pretty soon we were in the wind and we deployed the genoa, just as the heavens
opened and visibility was reduced to a couple of hundred metres. I’d insisted
that only two of us be on deck as there is no point having dripping wet bodies
going into and out of the cabin so Julie and Elaine were shut inside. The rain
had happened so suddenly that we were caught out a little as we hadn’t checked
the AIS because all of a sudden, the massive bulk of a tanker appeared on our
starboard side, on a course that would mean that we would pass within a few
hundred metres of each other.
Lesson learnt, always check your instruments!
Julie was on station from then on but luckily, the torrential rain stopped as
quickly as it started and thereafter, it stayed away and visibility was back to
normal.
The motion of the boat and the relative
wind strength meant that the genoa was flapping annoyingly and each flap meant
a loss of power as it spilled the wind. The only way to stop this is to use a
pole which is fastened to the genoa sheet (rope) at one end and the mast at the
other and with lines travelling up the mast and down to the deck to prevent the
pole going up and down. In wet ie slippery conditions and with the boat rolling
about, getting the pole deployed can be challenging. Still between us we
managed it and we were soon back in the safety of the cockpit and bowling along
with a nicely controlled genoa, with winds gusting at up to 24 knots, a bit
less than the forecast. Julie and I left
Jon and Elaine on watch as that is what they wanted to do and we passed
a few hours reading and dozing (me) as the miles were whittled away.
Conditions
continued to improve and pretty soon we had bright sunshine and having rounded
the bottom corner of Sweden we were slightly in the lee of the land and the sea
flattened so the motion of the boat eased – in short, pretty close to perfect
sailing conditions!
Our friends Richard Baker & Gill Worthy
on Calypso, whom we ‘d last been with on the Rally, were already in Ystad
having come down the coast from Simrishamn yesterday. Richard and I had been
texting and he’d told me that the marina was chock full but that he would try
and reserve a space should one become available. Fortunately, on the hammerhead
very close to Calypso there was a reserved space but the harbourmaster told
Richard that we could use it, so at 14:02 (I’d told him 5 hours ago that we
would be there by 14:00, not bad eh?!) we were being helped with our warps by
Richard & Gill. It was lovely to see them again and we invited them to join
us for dinner that evening, veggie chilli with smoked chippotle chillies.
Having tied up we all went into town to do
a little shopping. I was keen to check that the local supermarket had stocks of
my staple toast spread, a cheese paste with crayfish or prawns in, lovely – and
they did, so I was much relieved. On the way back we passed an ice cream shop
and most of the party joined the queue, Richard and I prefer our calories in
beer form so we declined and came back to the boat and it was then that we
bumped into another rally attendee, Liam Mac Mahon of Anica. He’d had a good
time since the rally, his last crew had departed that morning having been in
the same harbours as us on Bornholm, only a day apart! We invited him to join
us for dinner but he told me that he’d already agreed to join another Cruising
Association boat that evening. Upon enquiring who it was, I was delighted to
learn that it was Alan Williams, on his own unfortunately, as his wife
Christine had returned to the UK that morning for a week. Later I went to chat
to Alan to learn that he was taking Osprey back to Gedser early tomorrow, it
had to be early because Gedser is 80 miles away. I hope the wind is strong
enough to give him sufficient speed to make it without resorting to the diesel.
We had a nice evening on board. I think Jon
& Elaine enjoyed the company of our newer friends – either that or they’re
very good actors! Tomorrow, our last day together, we will catch the bus to go
to show everyone the stone ship out on the headland, a spot called Ales Stennar
or Ale’s Stones.
2025-05-23