Indee Cattle Station

Sunday, August 30, 2015
Indee, Western Australia, Australia
Now here's a story, situated 60klm south of Port Hedland, Indee Cattle Station welcomes campers, caravans and RV's. Travelling there we drive 30klm in a straight line, then take a left turn and travel another very straight 60klm to the gate. It's Sunday, but along the way we pass one road train after another hauling four trailers of Iron Ore to the port. With each passing we wobble in the slipstream of these bitumen giants. Happy to turn off the road onto Indee's 7klm driveway, we pause to open the gate and check the rig, all good.

The driveway begins as a very wide gravel road, but after about a kilometre a sign directs "tourists" onto a side track which parallels the main road which we are to learn is owned by a mining company who leases land off Indee . In fact, there are 3 separate rail lines traversing Indee owned by Rio Tinto, Fortescue Metals and Gina Rinehart, making this one interesting cattle property complete with mining and rail camps, trains kilometres long, road trains and cowboys!

Wiki-Camps, our travel bible describes this as "friendly and welcoming", "rustic" and an "experience". All true! We drive by a mining camp and arrive in a dusty yard beside a shipping container covered with old vehicle number plates, a gate besides leads through a rough lawn and garden to a unique besser block house built in two sections either side of a central 8 metre wide roofed breezeway with large steel mesh covered in shade cloth at either end. No need to knock as we here a voice "come on in and get a cuppa luv".

Inside the breezeway a long dining table seating about 20 people runs the length, beside this on the left wall is a very large TV surrounded by lounges for about a dozen people, and here we find four sitting chatting and having tea and coffee . We are directed to a self serve table and make ourselves a "cuppa" and biscuit, then take a place on a lounge and join in the conversation. We have no idea who is who, a French girl in her twenties wanders through into the kitchen saying she'll cut the watermelons, still no idea of what is what. After about 40 minutes Roscoe finally asks "how do we book in for a night"! From this the identity of the owners emerge, Col and Betty and shortly, well about another half hour later we are directed to the camp area which currently is home for a lone traveller, Craig.

Following Col's advice as soon as we have set camp and had a light lunch we head off on property tracks to find Red Rock, like a miniature Uluru, about 15klm from the homestead. The track is narrow, in places not well defined, and very sandy but no problems for us intrepid travellers. Soon Red Rock appears on the flat horizon and as we approach we come to a plague commemorating a plane crash here in the 60's which claimed the lives of the crew and passengers . Above us Red Rock rises probably 50 metres above, a rounded, smooth single rock of varying shades of rusty red. At the base nearest the plane memorial are two still pools of water the size of a small swimming pool. Col says it is good for swimming but at present they don't appear inviting being very slimy underfoot.

The Rock is an easy climb and surprisingly flat on top, about the size of a few football fields. Here we find Aboriginal etchings on the red surface depicting animals and people from as old as 20,000 years so Col claims. Whilst hunting for artwork we enjoy a 360 degree view of this amazing raw countryside, we can imagine the isolation and wilderness of the place, but now broken by a train horn signalling an Iron Ore train of at least 2klm is crossing Indee and clearly visible about 5klm west of us. Looking to the south we sight several road trains seemingly gliding above the surrounding scrub as they transport ore to the crushing plants. Trains and road trains are stark reminders that we have now entered the Pilbara, an area currently supplying over 14% of the worlds Iron Ore .

Other than raw earth and mining, Red Rock possibly stands alone as Indee Stations natural attractions. We walked below the Rock for a while following a really clear meandering group of large ponds in the otherwise dry riverbed. Next we decided to explore some station roads, an exercise that turned into a maze of tracks crossing each other as we passed undulating countryside of mulga, sand and rocky outcrops. Occasionally we crossed a road with a sign, "Mine site, no entry", but otherwise we were in uncharted territory on a strange Station. Thankfully Roscoe had years of experience navigating such landscapes for his two hunting mates, Jonno and Belly, so just as we appeared to be lost we came upon the main track close to camp.

Near the camp is a tall hill with a road leading half way up, we drove up here and discovered that we now had mobile phone coverage. We parked on the ridge line and spent the next hour attending to phone calls, Skype, emails and texts. Also we completed bookings for our Bali trip in October and also our flights back home in December. Before we finished Col drove up behind us to check what's happening, he thought trespassers were camped up here, nope, just us. We left him with a promise to join him at Happy Hour in the homestead at 5pm.

Upon the hill we had witnessed a few large whirlwinds tear through the property, not knowing that earlier the strongest had hit our Lotus home causing some damage to the roll out awning, but nothing really serious. Several other campers had also arrived and two of them reset the awning, in a fashion. A quick shower and we joined owners, staff and other guests for Happy Hour and some interesting conversations about travels, adventures and the history of Indee Station.
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