8th - 11th Sept
 
We are on the Ningaloo coast, at the northern end of Ningaloo Reef, a World Heritage listed reef stretching about 400klm south. Cape Range National Park runs for approximately 60klm of this coastline and is quite unique with two things, firstly the reef is easily accessible by swimming from the beach, sometimes as little as 10 metres, second is the abundance of campsites made available by the National Parks. The camps are well defined, sometimes each camp has a low fence designating the area, and the tracks and sites are of hard packed gravel and normally separated by about 20 metres of natural dunes scrub. The only amenities are toilets and garbage bins, which given most vans have ensuites or tent showers is fine. Our campsite is large, flat, clean and given we are not right on the beach still has a great ocean view, especially the outer reef with its constant movement of whitewater.
 
There is no shade and the area is known to be windy so camp takes a little more setup than usual. We hoist the sunshade on the northern side of the van to take the heat away from the fridge wall, and of course our side awning is out on the south side and well secured to the low fence in case of winds. We have booked online for 4 days, the only way you gain access to Osprey Bay, so the BBQ is set, the snorkelling gear retrieved from its home on the roof rack and the fishing rods taken out and rigged. A busy day, that's until we pick up towels, flippers and goggles and walk the 50 metres to a small beach bordered by a now dry old coral reef. This is Evi's first ocean snorkelling adventure, though, as Tom had given us new gear at Christmas, she had practised in our swimming pool back home. The reef has soft beginnings only about 15 metres from the shore so we drift around here for about 20 minutes giving Evi a chance to get comfortable. The tide is going out and as we finish our swim a current is steadily gaining strength pulling water out through a gap in the reef, so that is enough for day one.
 
The campsite comprises about 40 sites and the place has a "volunteer camp host" who invites us to a camp happy hour session set in a picnic area right on the beach edge. We wander up there and find 11 couples gathered around the tables and it is a comfortable and happy group. We meet, greet and exchange stories and info as the sun descends into the west, drowning in the Indian Ocean, in fact you expect to hear a splash so quick does the last of the sun disappear. The 20 minutes after sunset the sky glows and changes hues in a spectacular yet soft display before the first stars appear, the cue for all to retreat to their campsites for dinner.
 
17klm south is Yardie Creek, and as a solid wind has arisen this morning we decide to make an excursion down there. A small cruise boat tour operator runs trips up Yardie Creek which is through a winding gorge in the Cape Range hills and some years after a big wet season it has ocean access. We arrive just as the first boat of the day is due to depart, and it is full, however, we book on the next tour at 12:30pm. This leaves us plenty of time to take the walk, a Class 4, up the northern edge of the gorge. The walk is really only slightly difficult for us young folk, but it is over a raised coral reef which is very uneven and full of holes and rivulets. The view from the top of the Range is really stunning, the beach disappears into the horizon both north and south, paralleled by the whitewater of the outer reef often 2klm offshore, and either side so many shades of blue and green you cannot count. Then 50 metres directly below Yardie Creek makes its way to the interior as it twists and turns through the old reef, fish glinting in the sun through the clear w ater.

With some time to spare we sit on the Range and have a break just enjoying the view before heading back down to the cruise boat which we can see slowly returning to the dock. The return walk takes us about 80 minutes. At the car to dump the backpack Roscoe discovers he has left his iPhone at the rest stop on the peak of the Range. Surprisingly Evi states she'll run back to pick it up, hoping to return in time for the cruise. Never argue with a Hun, so off she trots and amazingly returns with iPhone, panting and sweating in 28 minutes. Meanwhile Roscoe has cancelled the cruise and received a refund, so we walk to the ocean beach to swim and allow Evi to cool down. Marathon woman!
 
Returning to Osprey the wind has totally withdrawn, the water smooth and inviting, one cannot but go snorkelling. The water is clearer than yesterday, and possibly a little warmer, and Evi is obviously more comfortable as we float and dive among the various coral stacks in the bay. Roscoe dives and swims with a school of Golden Snapper some of which were over 45cm. The number of fish seen prompts us to return at sunset with our fishing rods, it's one thing seeing the pretty fish, it's another when they're on your plate, yum. Unfortunately, after happy hour with the crew we do come down fishing but with little reward. We catch a small Cod and a small Long Tom, both catch and release cause we're sensitive people!

We also cast our lines as the sunrises the next morning along with 3 other guys but none of us has any bites and definitely no fish to tell a tale about. We wander the 50 metres back to camp and settle for bacon, tomato and eggs in the Webber, not a bad backstop. By 10am we drive about 10klm north to Turquoise Bay for a look and intending to have a swim and lay on the beach for a while. The bay is just stunningly beautiful, the water is turquoise turning to deeper blues as it becomes deeper, and patched with darker areas where reef stacks occur. Most of the time the small waves run up the beach with a swish but do not break, a gentle place. It is not long before we return to the car and retrieve our umbrella, towels, books and snorkelling kits and set up a day camp. We spend the next 4 hours here basking in the sun, snorkelling and a walk up the beach, it is truly idyllic. During the dive we swim with so many fish, some quite large, also stingrays and a turtle. For the length of the beach the bay only reaches about 3 metres in depth making all on the bottom very clear.
 
8am and we are driving to Mandu Mandu Gorge a little north of camp. The sign says a Class 4 walk and allow 3 hours. As we intend to snorkel before the tide drops too much, and we have opted to do the walk in the cooler hours, we put the foot down and walk with some pace. The walking for the first few kilometres is along a creek bed of round, white boulders and it is not easy as each step is different and the stones roll underfoot. Then comes a steep climb up a ridge onto the surrounding cliffs followed by a meandering path along the mountain top which dips into ravines and up the other side often. The descent near the gorge entrance is steep and requires some bottom work on the way down. We have completed this hike in and hour and a few minutes, plenty of time for snorkelling.

The best diving in the inner reef is at Oyster Stacks almost opposite the Mandu Mandu Gorge, the car park is full due to a early high tide, but we park and get ready with our gear....except that we have left the dive bags back at camp, bugger! A quick dash to Osprey and return with all equipment and apparel on board and we soon hit the water. Oyster Stacks is so named for the reef formations like a mushroom, covered with oysters, and only 15 metres from the rocky shore. The tide is going out, and due to our wasted time we estimate it will only be worthwhile snorkelling for about 15 minutes, and it certainly is! As we approach the first stack large fish circle and though they move away at our approach they are always in sight in the clear water. Under the stacks Groper and Cod lurk, watchful and alert that we keep our distance. Fish of all size and colour abound, Evi is delighted and excited like a little girl.
 
We return to Osprey with the intention of lazing around camp, then lunch followed by an afternoon on the beach and some snorkelling as the tide comes in, however, by 11am a southerly wind has arisen and grows steadily stronger. At midday our friends and old travelling companions, Col and Judy, arrive to have a look at Osprey as, on our recommendations, they have booked a site here from Sunday. Since leaving them in Darwin back in July we have crossed paths a few times and spoken often by phone, it's good to see them, except Col tells us the forecast is for increasing winds over the next days and by evening the forecast has proven true with a blustery 30kph southerly forcing our decision to head back to Exmouth tomorrow. Cape Range NP is a beautiful spot but as there are no trees on this coast it is totally unprotected from any wind!