Savior on the Spilled Blood, Russian Federation
Today was to be our last day of our European component of the trip. I am treating the western sectors of Russia as part of Europe. I could be technical and talk about Eurasia, but I couldn’t spell it.
This section does not only make reference to the end trails of Saint Petersburg but a few more personal observations and commentary on perhaps the most remarkable nation that I have visited. I am not sure about Fred’s reaction: if I can stop her talking to everybody she bumps into, she may find time to give her thoughts. As I write this, she is exercising her upper and lower mandibles. Whoops, I think she is talking to me: I will have to stop writing as this mere male (allegedly) can’t multi-task. Let’s press on: “Yes dear”, “Yep, I reckon you’re correct, my sweetness”, “Absolutely”, etc etc.
Our “walk” around Saint Petersburg only reinforced the thoughts that I have so succinctly, lucidly and without doubt, portrayed to this point. Well, I think that I have: yes, reflecting on this, I feel fairly, if not reasonably confident, that I think I have !!
Our hotel’s location allowed us to be near lots of places.
A block away from the wide Neva River and nearby many eating houses. Just down the road was the massive structure of St Isaac’s Church. Now this was big !! Gold domes (how surprising) and occupying a complete block !! Apparently not a functioning church now: currently operates as a national museum with a high towered outlook over the city. Large (temple like) columns found around the building. These were massive with much smaller ones playing their part on the second and subsequent floors. Just about everywhere we subsequently travelled that day you could see this structure: I am sure this was by accident and was not deliberately built to be so imposing !! An earlier version of this church (established in the mid 1700s), sank into the marshy swamps upon which Saint Petersburg is situated.
The city is known as the Venice of the North: 80 canals and 300 bridges help drain the very marshy soil. The city scape is dominated by 3 - 5 storey buildings: there was a covenant on the building height as no building was allowed to be higher than Peter’s Palace.
I guess this was a bit of an ego thing.
Over one of the main bridges and onto the largest island off the city where many monuments were dominating the area. Many of these were of Nordic origin, given the early times of the city’s development had many of my relatives visit and plunder. As well as did the British: not so much with the latter however. The city still does, but formerly held quite an important marine function.
Prior to visiting the very impressive Peter and Paul (Mary apparently spat the dummy a long time ago), we witnessed the 12 midday cannon firing. Apparently the operator was a bad shot as nothing appeared to be hit !! “Keep this up and Vlad may sack you”, was my comment. The fortress was a former political prison: not that it would have been used much !!
The fort’s main attraction was the church where many (from memory about the first 6), of the region’s emperors were buried: along with a most impressive interior. Yes, the now ubiquitous gold in bucket fulls as well !!
But for us, the best was certainly to come: the Cathedral of Spilled Blood. Fortunately it appeared that this was all cleaned up by the time we got there. Apparently, this was the site where Alexander II was assassinated and so his son decided to build a church in his honour. If this cathedral is not the quintessential photo of Russia (along with St Basil’s, Red square and the Kremlin), then I am a very bad judge.
The Cathedral is multi-coloured domes on the outside, which creates a most impressive picture.
I couldn’t believe some of the locals appeared to walk past this massive structure without even glancing at it. I stood there endeavouring to take photos and couldn’t believe my eyes. But better was to come. Inside the whole church is lined with multi-coloured mosiacs. From the ceiling to the floor. Now this place is probably or should be the 8th wonder of the world !! It too has been undergoing a restoration for many years. Our day was short and so we returned to the hotel to have a swim in the heated pool.
The centre was all very efficiently monitored by a Russian lady that insisted we wear the special slippers provided. My pack had 2 left ones: I managed though to walk in a straight line and not in a circle. Swimming obviously promotes an appetite especially after my two laps of the 15 metre pool. Fred reckons it was less than that, but I think this creates a better impression of my work-out. So for our evening meal, we went off to a traditional Russian Pie House.
Now this was an interesting meal.
Everything is served at room temperature: even the beers as “we don’t have any in the fridge”. Anything from kipper pies through to the more conservative meat pie. You buy by the portion, so we had a nibble at a few varieties. All very good I might say. Even our Russian waiter (Russian in culture, but certainly not in manner), made an extreme effort to assist us in our selections.
Our time in Russia had come to an end. I convinced Fred that we take a long walk home through some streets we had not travelled so as to prolong our experiences a little longer.
I feel it is now time to offer some more thoughts and observations on Russia as a whole:
- Put Russia on your bucket list: ensure that Moscow is in your travels however. I have mentioned this prior, but it simply amazed me. Perhaps not just the sights, but the observations and conclusions Fred and I were able to make following the many chats we had with people with whom we came in contact.
- Police and other security forces are ever present. If they are not patrolling major intersections, they are escorting Black Mercedes Benz vehicles with flashing blue lights. The streets of both cities have dedicated lanes for such vehicles only (although some emergency vehicles may use these provided there is room !! The privileged or “important” certainly seem to get their way both literally and physically. From our very limited exposure there is a most dichotomous society. I guess you could argue this in all countries, but I felt there were very obvious signs. Your average Russian seems to be a cautious yet obliging person: provided they are not in some form of security uniform. The latter, seemingly expecting issues: I may be completely misjudging them.
- Wrought iron on all Government buildings is painted black annually. Large contingents of painters were a common sight (especially in Moscow). All the massive fences which sectioned off these buildings, were shiny black or about to become so.
- Shops and other retail outlets open about 0900 hours and close 12 - 14 hours later. Even the Russian equivalent of Toys R us has these extended hours. These shops don’t seem to have many people in them: according to the “Fred-o-metre”, items seem to be quite expensive.
- There are many legends / stories within Russian folklore which seem to make the population very superstitious. Statues often have a shiny hand, nose etc where the people walk past and touch these. We recall on our initial visit to the Moscow underground noticing this. Some even stop and acknowledge the statue.
- Like many other countries that are “locked away” during winter, the advent of the warmer months seem to be a celebration time for the populous. Our time in Russia was usually on the slightly colder side of warm (with a few days actually in the low 20s) and people were obviously preparing for their summer. Shops were building platforms for alfresco dining on the footpaths and those that had this facility were frequented very heavily. We often had chats with people who rued the harsh weather in which they live
- “Subtle indoctrination” of the population is very common. Everywhere you look there is the double headed eagle (the crest of the Russian Federation). I was so acutely aware of this, I had a bet with Fred that t would appear on the inside of a toilet door prior to us leaving. Fortunately a bet that I lost: perhaps I didn’t “visit” enough places ?
Our trip to Russia will remain a memorable one.
Kathii
2019-05-07
Judging by the animated tone of your Russia entries, could I assume Russia was the highlight of your trip? Don't blame you; Russia is a marvel and a must for any serious traveller.