We were aiming for Moscow. Once we leave Schipol Airport, it only takes 3.5 hours.

Leisurely breakfast: as Fred didn’t have to remind me about showing a little restraint at the coffee machine. I kept count myself of the number of refills this time. I did so, as I didn’t want to cause her any extra stress on our last day in The Netherlands. Again, just the considerate me, coming to the fore !!

Our transit to Schipol was booked and so we’d soon be on our way to something that has been on my bucket list for some time: the Federation of Russia. I must admit, Fred wasn’t a big fan of wanting to go to Russia, however, she has since relented. You can decide as to whether it was my charm, wit, good looks or intelligence (perhaps all of these ?), that finally influenced her to change her mind. 

Our experience at Schipol wasn’t too bad, once we were able to find our way around. The Schipol Airport is a massive structure: some 3 terminals (with our terminal having 87 gates !!). I didn’t get Fred to go and count the other 2 terminals. She felt that she had more than done her job with our terminal. I told her that we had 40 minutes to wait and that I was confident the task could have been completed within this time.   

Adding to its complexity is the transport hub where trains and buses converge. Not just a few, but 100s of them. How the drivers of vehicles can navigate their way around is a mystery. Today is our third time here over the past few days. The airport is also undergoing massive refurbishment and expansion as well. Just being here gives you a sense of it being large. You need a passport just to go from one end to the other !!

Our KLM fight 903 was indeed run by KLM: when we were planning the flights, this flight had a code share with Aeroflot. Something which caused us a little concern. The flight full with us occupying the very rear seats: quite cramped really and when the person in front wanted to put her seat back I found myself sitting in the gallery. I will remind Fred not to give this airline too much of a rap. Three and half hours of getting somebody else to scratch your nose: I couldn’t even reach down to take my shoes off. Obviously Fred was in the same position: as opposed to being in the same seat. A good flight however, arriving on time and then sitting on the tarmac for an “invitation” for “somewhere to park”.

Getting through immigration wasn’t too bad: not the fastest as the process for each passenger taking 3-4 minutes. Each of us was required to sign an immigration card which we must have on us at all times. We also noted that the hotels are to either verify these cards or present us with verification of our stay as per the itinerary we submitted to the Russian Consulate some months earlier. Our contact was waiting for us and arranged our transfer to the Budapest Hotel: we were find that this was very centrally located in the centre part of Moscow.

The trip into town from the airport was 90 minutes: the roads were choked. This we were to experience as being normal throughout our stay. While the roads are very wide (we often travelled on 10 lane roads !!), the volume of traffic far exceeds the roads’ capacity. Given Moscow has a population of 16 million, I think each person must have 2-3 vehicles. All cars with very few bikes or motorcycles. Petrol here seems to be about $AUD1 per litre: a great deal cheaper than the $AUD2.50 in France. No wonder the yellow shirts in Paris are objecting to their current cost of living.

Generally, vehicles can be classed as “austere”: especially in the outer areas. The central parts of Moscow however, is where all the wealth and opulence seems to exist. Expensive cars with Porsche, Rolls Royce, BMW etc very common. Many parked outside the high end shops like Gucci, Tiffanys and the like. 

After checking into our hotel, quite an aged but very comfortable and well decorated building, we decided that acquiring some local currency so we can at least eat, may be a good idea. An ATM attached to a bank, being nearby seemed a good idea. The bank was open and able to assist; surprising given it was 2030 hours !! Apparently they stay open in the warmer months until 2100 or 2200 hours. Hurdle #1 accomplished; it’s easy when you know which buttons to push !!

Just down the road we decided to test how much our newly acquired wealth (30,000 rouble: approximately $AUD 680) would stretch. Into a small cafe which appeared to have eat-in and take-away capabilities. We monitored how the locals were handing the ordering process and then decided to do our bit. 

We had deduced that it was a self select by weight procedure. So we started pointing at the meals we wanted only to note that these were then heated and then presented to the cashier. A smooth process I think, as when Fred came back to the table after braving this initial foreign experience. All done at a leisurely pace: no “russian”, no need to, very considered. The Balkan potato pie, kebabs, beef patty with egg and the desserts were all very nice. Some of the meals had English tags; a hangover from the recent Soccer World Cup where outlets were encouraged to have bi-lingual signs. We noticed this with some street signs as well. We were expecting to see only Cyrillic script. They have 33 characters in their alphabet. Apparently now, English is taught in schools as a second language. Trying to read Cyrillic is virtually impossible. Not all characters used can be attached to the Arabic script that English speakers are used to. Apparently, in Russian (like some other European languages) there are male and female words and so different characters are attached.

What I have quickly deduced however, is no wonder the Russians speak so fast: most of their words are so long, that you have to be “russian” to get a sentence finished before dinner !! 

Walking around the nearby streets we noticed a small supermarket with an attached wine store. Australian and other nation’s wines being very expensive: made more so by the 20% VAT levied on all goods and services. It was here that the shopkeeper understood that we were from Australia and then proceeded to give Fred a rundown on the local currency. It only took her about 30-40 minutes to explain this to me when we made the short walk back to our hotel. By now, you would have realised that I am a fast learner: but never accused of “russian” my work at school.

We were quite satisfied with our day’s work in such a foreign environment. Television provided us with a few English speaking options: while we always had the internet to catch up on Australian sport and news. Moscow being seven hours behind Sydney.

Our room was quite large and comfortable set in what we were to find out to be a rather historical building. One frequented by the Communists during and subsequent to the Russian Revolution in 1917. Lenin apparently delivered some of his speeches here. His face and an inscription prominently on the wall in the street. 

Our first full day follows: breakfast in the hotel and then to catch up with Kirill our guide for the next 2 days. He proved to be a very knowledgeable and pleasant fellow. Our time with him was spent walking around the city as well as riding the very extensive underground metro system, that Stalin built early in the 19th century. The metro while aged, it is very interesting. Kirill took us to a number of stations (all initially built 30 - 60 metres underground) to withstand any bombing or nuclear attack.

The features with the underground revolve around a a series of murals, architectural design and sculptures. Each station having its own individual theme: very impressive. It reminded us of those we had seen in Athens: in some way these were more impressive though. The Moscow underground was very busy (no wonder as it only costs 55 roubles per day [$AUD1.25]) for as many trips as you like. People “russian” everywhere. Which is what you would expect in Moscow. Perhaps there were a few strays like Fred and I, though ?

Plenty of smiles though from the people: they seemed to know that we were outsiders. In our time in Moscow, many were very patient with us in solving our endeavours. Typically, when we purchased items, they would verbalise an amount due, and so we would just place our money in our palm and let them forage for the correct amount. I think there was one time we got it right: when I needed 29 kopeck for a large bottle of water. 

We needed to purchase our own water, as the hotel water was “not for drinking”. Fred and I pretended we were drinking vodka !! Once, I must admit that my monitoring skills let slip, and Fred pretended to have a “double vodka on the rocks”. I hope her mother doesn’t find out: otherwise I will be “russian” in the other direction !!

The Russians seem a friendly bunch and eager to please, unless you’re in a uniform. Police everywhere and they stop and give you an eye-full. A few times i did actually stare them down; a bit of a game. While we didn’t necessarily talk to Kirill about those political issues, it was obvious that a tight control seems to rest on the everyday citizen. Something like we experienced when we were in Hanoi a few years ago.

As noted earlier, we were centrally located: our walk with Kirill, quickly brought us to the Theatre square, where the Bolshoi complex was situated. The Bolshoi is big business: still state owned (as most entities are in Russia): Bolshoi is housed in 4 buildings: a restaurant, opera theatre, a drama theatre and the one we were most interested in, the ballet theatre. More about the latter in the next chapter. But suffice to say we were interested in purchasing tickets: Kirill had a friend who could get us tickets, but we felt we could get them cheaper. Fred and I were still deliberating. 

I had looked at maps of Moscow (“MockBa”) prior to leaving Australia and knew that The Kremlin and Red Square weren’t too far away. Fred could see that I was starting to get a little anxious: keen to get there but we had to let Kirill do his job.

He told us about Karl Marx (the father of Communism) whose very large statue stood and peered over the square the Bolshoi complex stood. I am not sure whether he was a patron of the arts: my Economics 101 courses didn’t necessarily address his outside interests when I studied “command economics”. I did mention that there were many and large statues and buildings: Kirill agreed and noted that it was a deliberate ploy to make everything big so as. “To show the benefits of Communism”. Fred and I couldn’t get over the size of the buildings. Some occupying a complete block. The statues certainly were not only prominent, but appeared to be positioned to cast an eye over the immediate vicinity. Standing looking at the Karl Marx statue, noted to Fred that he winked at me. She just gave me a stony faced look: Kirill smiled and just started walking away. 

We walked past the very large lower House of Parliament building (a very large building) and then around the corner to be confronted with our first glimpse of The Kremlin. My first impression was the same as when we first saw the Taj Mahal. Massive.

“Kremlin” is a Russian word which means “fortress”. This Kremlin is the survivor of 4 original ones which stood in Moscow. Obviously the other 3 have been dismantled over time. Just as well, as the space these walls occupied becoming wide avenues. I’d hate to think what the traffic situation would be like without this space.  

The outside walls of The Kremlin are massive: many metres thick and some 25 metres tall: strikingly that “red” colour. Tall towers placed down each of the 4 walls. Originally sited on a island, it is foreboding !!

To get to it, we pass through Resurrection Gates: these being the northern entry into the massive Red Square. The square itself would be some 400 metres long and 150 metres wide. The site was being prepared for 9th May (“Victory Day”). It is on this day that the Red Army displays its mighty power of militia. Both Fred and I will watch this with a bit more interest when it is projected onto our TVs: we will be home a few days by then.  

The square is very heavily monitored with police and other armed personnel most evident. We don’t get too much opportunity here on this occasion as we will be back tomorrow: a day which the square will be closed for rehearsals for the 9th May parade. Don’t worry: we saw the square in all its might on our return visit. More about that in the next chapter.

From the square we walked down a large pedestrian boulevard called Arabat. This was a major pedestrian congregation point during the recent World Cup for soccer. It still carried some of the decorations from this event. Kirill indicated that the event was a huge success for the people. Stopping part the way down this boulevard and taking Kirill to lunch in a Russian cafe. Although the cafe itself was slow paced and relaxed, it was Russian. Here we had some traditional borsch soup and some other assorted foods like pork knuckle, kebabs and dumplings. 

Kirill told us a little about his family and former life as a tourist operator. His business collapsed a few years ago: especially when the USA started placing sanctions on Russia. It appears that he suffered quite badly as a result. His family had grown up with his son currently in the last few weeks of his compulsory National Service: something he seemed to express support for. Today, it is served in a different manner and seems to offer those involved some potential security for the future.

It was after lunch that we then explored the Moscow Metro. Some 250 stations serve this network: all very clean and serviced by a series of cleaners who apparently have no set wage: their monthly pay is determined by “how much the boss wants to pay them”. Reading between the lines, corruption is still a way of life in Russia. When you speak to Russian people (and I didn’t have to run much or too fast to keep up !!), it is accepted as a way of life. I also get the feeling that anybody in a uniform (there seems to be many types: police, secret police, regional police etc). They seem to be anywhere. Even those who work in the public places (Museums etc), if they are in uniform, they seem to expect and receive respect. Their word seems to be accepted. People in uniform also seem not to smile: I think it’s part of their job description. Some don’t seem to like it when you smile at them: I made this a little game just to gauge their reaction. Often walking away with a smile on my face and a jab in the ribs from you know who !!

As noted earlier, the underground was a Stalin initiative which initially met with great resistance. Built in a heavily fortified manner and deep below the Moscow landscape (50 - 60 metres), many of the stations replacing former strategic buildings. Armouries, libraries and even places of residence. The metro is said to be able to withstand a nuclear attack.

We visited 5 stations each most artistically designed: as I understand it, another Stalin wish. The artwork and sculptures are reminders to the Russians (that is, the people from Russia and not necessarily those quickly moving around the underground !!), of their heritages. Most impressive few hours spent looking at these stations.

Still, yet to get into The Kremlin: that followed our train trip. As you could imagine, heavily secured with the mandatory screen checks etc to gain access. The Kremlin is a very large complex: consisting of churches, entertainment areas, armouries, offices and of course the Presidential Complex. 

Hopefully, Vladimir Putin would have received my email and organised a time for us to meet. I told him in the correspondence, that we would fit into his schedule and that there would not be any photographs and autographs: I just don’t think that I would have time to be able to fit those into my schedule. He was also informed that it would be brief and to keep the media away. Hopefully, he will follow these conditions, otherwise there could be an international crisis. Not another Cold War, as summer was approaching !!

Inside The Kremlin, we visited the National Treasures Museum with billions of Roubles worth of gold items and other artefacts. It was mind blowing to see what was housed in this building. Should Russia become bankrupt they will be able to trade their way out, by cashing in all of the gold and precious stones. Without sounding too much over the top, there were items in the museum that had 100s of kilograms of gold. Many other artefacts which had myriads of precious stones: mostly from centuries ago. All just in cases and on display. We were told that what we saw only constituted 10% of the total collection.

Still no Vladimir: the longer we walked around The Kremlin the less opportunity he had to meet. I guess he wouldn’t do it at the museum; too public.  Should he stand me up  there will be drastic action. Perhaps I may even take him off my Facebook friends list. I know, dramatic, but he needs to be given a lesson in diplomacy. I may even send him a “PM” !!

By my reckoning, he still has an hour or so. I had allowed for daylight savings, hence, felt rather sure this is all I could give him. He just needs to “put-in” should he want to meet as arranged. Anyway, we have to move on: “Moscow”, to another site within The Kremlin.

We moved around the grounds passing the Presidential building where “Vlad” must have been hard at work. I thought I noticed somebody looking out of one of the windows: it could have been Vlad. Even Fred couldn’t distinguish who it was. Still, I feel that it was him and that he was sending me a message. The person seemed to be pointing to his watch: somewhat indicating that he had run out of time. My time had expired a s well, as we needed to get back to our hotel and prepare for the Moscow Circus. His loss not mine. Fred tried to tell me later that Vladimir was not even in Moscow and that he was in Vladivostok meeting the President of North Korea, Kim Jong-un. 

I asked her to stop and think as to who me “Vlad” would rather see !! Quickly, she came to her senses and said “Yes, no contest”. Pretty smart woman my wife.   

We made the short walk back to our hotel and prepare for our trip out to the circus in an hour or so. 

The show was spectacular: trained hippos, high wire acts and the typical clowns (just to mention a few), all wrapped into a sci-fi Arabian theme. The circus seems to be an essential part of Russian life. The “tent” was a circular building with performances the year round. There were some very talented people on display. The acrobatic display performed by a couple on a rope dangling from the ceiling, was to say the least, breathe taking. So risky was the act, that I wouldn’t like to know how much their insurance would be !! All they had was a double bed as a safety net. I still tingle at the thought of this act. Not too many words spoken: allowing the entertainment to be the communicator.  

On the way to the circus, Fred was quite emphatic that I not join in the clowns should an opportunity arise. I reminded her that I had not been part of the rehearsals, so would find it difficult. She obviously has a great deal of faith in me as she replied, “you would find a way !!“. I was more fascinated with our driver who constantly fought with the quite dense Moscow traffic. He made extensive use of his satellite facility in the car to determine the best way. He worked damn hard to get us there. Well done Sergei. I didn’t ask him his name, but for this point, an appropriate tag. 

Another highlight of the circus visit was when Fred suggested that I needed to go and buy “a Pluto pup or the like”, at interval. Could you imagine the fun I had lining up at the counter and trying to explain what I was after ? Almost total confusion !! I came back with a sandwich and a bottle of Pepsi. Not a bad effort I thought.

No competition this time, but again I seek your counsel. I am a little perturbed that I travelled all this way to Russia and Vlad stood me up. Completely mystifying don’t you think ? 

Your task, should you take up the offer is to:

спокойной ночи и сладких снов (good night and sweet dreams)

PS some big news on the horizon about our next day in Moscow. Be sure to develop an anxiety complex, while you wait for the next exciting chapter to arrive in your in box !!