Our day was to be spent outside of Amsterdam; off to the bush !!
From our hotel we were to catch the #340 Bus to Haarlem.
Yes, we were to do some “globetrotting”. From here, to catch the train to the coast at Zaandvoort san Zee. The weather certainly seemed to attract the crowds to this area: the train was quite full from Haarlem.
A short walk from the station past a few take-away vans (at last I saw my Rolmops !!) and along the boardwalk. What struck me was the large dyke which acted as the foreshore: it must have been some 30 metres high. Consequently you had to walk down to the beach via driveways (which serviced the many restaurants at beach level) of the steps. The beach was very flat, as was the “surf”. Pumping in at about 1 millimetre. No need for surfboards here !! It was low tide, so if you didn’t feel like a swim as you entered the sand area, you certainly would have by the time you walked to the water’s edge. The walk took you to near the white cliffs of Dover !!
From way up perched on the dyke, Fred enticed me to at least paddle in the North Sea: I didn’t want to, but for the sake of solidarity, I did. My toes went instantly numb: not long after so did my ankles.
I was the only fool in the water, even though there were many people on the beach laying on their €6 per day benches. Interestingly, all facing away from the water and to the sun.
The tourist season officially doesn’t start for another 2 weeks: but the warmer weather certainly was bringing the locals to the beach to catch up on some vitamin D intake.
Very few were laying on the sandy area without the use of the hired benches (Grand Cafe Alan Zee”). We noticed that the beach appeared to be sectioned off and “controlled” by the nearby restaurant. So it was up to the individual to choose where to lay: perhaps near to your “favourite” eating place: a mini resort environment. Australians would find this as strange given the free access etc we have to our beaches. We take them for granted, whereas the Dutch appear to worship these !! Given that sun is a rare commodity here, I can understand this.
The beach was dead flat: rising up to the 30 metre wall (“dyke”). Compact and hard to walk-on sand, I shared this area with a couple of tractors pulling take-away vans.
These providing an on beach shop service. I found this strange: moving along the beach, ringing bells and stopping occasionally. Reflecting however, this service is probably necessary as by the time you walked back from the shops up on the boardwalk, your ice cream would have melted !! Well, given the summer temperatures possibly not: but I’m sure you comprehend this brilliant observation.
We sat and watched the beach scene whilst we ate some fresh seafood, all washed down with, a Coke. I was able to secure my long held desire for Rolmops. I craved for these during one of Fred’s pregnancies: being the ever diligent wife during these times, she indicated that “if you want Rolmops, you can have them, just pop down to the supermarket and get them !!”.
Rolmops are a bit of a Dutch delicacy: pickled herring fillet rolled and stuffed with pickled onion. Wonderful and as you could guess, rather salty. This was the first time that I had seen them. available anywhere in the Netherlands. Fred was a little less adventurous with her Kibbeing (fish pieces).
The Dutch serve these on a small tray with some salad items and forks. Very civilised.
A short walk back to the station where we just missed a train back to Haarlem: I mentioned to Fred that she should have run a little faster: although I guess she did as best she could while piggy-backing me. I did mimic the jockey whipping action as we cannoned down the steps: it didn’t appear to walk.
Back outside to catch a bus: the transport system is highly integrated and so we didn’t have to wait too long. By the time the bus arrived, Fred had regained her composure. Our bus trip proving to be rather interesting: through flat (how surprising), coastal dune area, paralleling the shoreline. Cycle tracks aplenty, upon which there were traffic jams. I do not jest. Cars quite scarce, cycles by the tons !! On our way to Haarlem, we passed through suburbs like Overeen Brouwerskolweg, Overeen Korrte Zijlweg and Haarlem Rouoplaankwartier. You would need an A4 envelope to write these suburb names, or at least some shares in an ink company !! Our objective was to catch a train from Haarlem to Zaahan Zouse a station near a small windmill village, north of Amsterdam.
This was a short walk from the station.
Our travel passes coming in handy: being able to travel on any form of public transport. It also allows us to save a bit of money. For example, this trip to Zaahan Schans (the windmill village) was on offer for €59. A bus ride from your hotel and back essentially. Our trips around the Netherlands are in the same category.
Our short walk around the village (established by a group of windmill enthusiasts) along with a peek inside one of the working mills was all we did here. We didn’t want to compete with the many tourists who had mainly come with the many coaches parked in the near vicinity.
Our planning had indicated that we should be able to catch a bus from here to the village of Edam. This was achieved: a speedy trip on bus #877. We were the only ones on the bus: passing through very open and extensive dairy farms with grazing Friesian cattle. Very lush pastures. The bus driver could see that we were extensively canvassing our maps and so engaged us with a few suggestions.
Which we did follow (other than, “please get off my bus ”!! ...just kidding). Off the bus at Edam: according to our maps, we are now well north of Amsterdam. Into the old village of Edam where we had a taste of some Edam cheese (“made at our local farm, just 4 kilometres away”), some of which we bought (Overjarige Kaas) and a short walk around.
Edam is typical of the villages, small, with many canals surrounded by many farms. Many brugs (bridges) allowing pedestrians and vehicles to cross the canals. We followed the bus driver’s advice and decided to take a connecting bus to another village further north, Hoorn. Our bus ride on route 314, following a large dyke which was holding back the nearby ocean. We occasionally seeing the ocean and observing how these dykes work. I was still keen to find out where the fella was or is, that is employed to keep his finger in the hole !! Again, we were in dairy country with the farmers allowing the cattle and some sheep, to graze on the grassy dykes. The latter being a few metres wide but some metres high.
We were to notice once we walked around Hoorn, that these were much larger (wider and taller).
Our trip around Hoorn, was on foot. Along the aforementioned dyke and around to the old harbour where a number of old sailboats (outriggers) were moored. A small harbour which we drew parallels with Honfleur in Normandie. Much smaller though.
It was at this point Fred insisted on sitting down and consume some of the Dutch pale ale. This she did: I suggested though that it would be better if we were to walk a little further to the hotel and use their tables and chairs. This was accepted as a reasonable alternative.
Evident on our walk was the reappearance of the houses we had noted before: those that lean forward. We attempted to get these in a picture however, as they only lean a little forward. I took Fred back after the “pale ale” to get another picture or two: she couldn’t find them !! Her explanation was that she lost the map. I had a separate hypothesis. Perhaps a little too long to test it just now.
Time to head back home: a trip to the station and onto the train to Amsterdam Sloterdijk station. At which we found that the train network seemed to be in a state of confusion. Trains cancelled everywhere: so a quick decision to catch a bus instead to Hoofddorf station. A very slow trip via the iconic Schipol Airport, but at least we had another look at suburban Amsterdam.
Another long, yet enlightening day.
It is appropriate I guess, to give an overall perspective of the Netherlands, with emphasis on Amsterdam:
- We both felt that Amsterdam was well worth a visit. Initially, selecting here appeared to be the most convenient way of entering Russia from Connelles. Many offered us some advice: both ways,
- Seeing a country that has to cope with so much: being almost below sea level and how the people adapt, was rather interesting. I also thought that how the Dutch use the water as a means of transport and a tourist attraction is to be commended,
- A highly integrated transport system which appears to encourage public transport usage. Although it appears that during winter, the system is not as efficient as we found.
- The manner in which the Dutch appreciate and utilise the environment is also something the wider world should model. Very environmental (cycles, energy use and intensive recycling).
A word of warning however. The Dutch are not very good users of cash. Just about everything is paid for by card. Indeed, there were restaurants we wanted to “frequent”, only to be thwarted by “we only accept cards, please no cash”. True. The other aspect is that there is a very high expectation that you book. We noticed this especially with Museums etc. Sure we were there during Easter, but the expectation remains.
The Netherlands seems a very orderly country.
Next, we need to tackle the behemoth of Schipol Airport. We have heard that it takes a little while to get used to.
2025-05-23