Nuits-Saint-Georges, Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, France
Blue skies on the horizon. Today is “B” day: Burgundy Day: Bourgogne Day: a real corker !!
Prior to getting too excited and emotional, perhaps you need to be geographically oriented. We are currently (sort of) in the centre of La France. Just near the red wine capital of the world. Now, this latter reference may indeed be a point of conjecture: but what an argument to have. The hypothesis being promoted by each party, would indeed need to be tested with samples: there is no other way I can think of settling this over a bottle or two. Suffice to say, if you feel the need to contest my contention please drop me a line and I’ll be in it.
Dijon is found at the northern end of the UNESCO proclaimed wine producing region of Burgundy (Bourgogne). We are only visiting this region in order to maintain our “UNESCO fetish”: you just need to consult with our previous sortees to note that many of such sites have been visited. Any other thought by yourself as to the actual reason behind this visit, will need to be re-examined: pure coincidence: similar to the situation, being in Munich when the Oktoberfest was being held some 614.
5 days days ago. Not that I am counting.
Our research found that with just 30 minutes drive south from our hotel, you are in “wine heaven”: wall-to wall vineyards. Words of another: I can’t recall whose they were but I remember them well. Fred (obviously obsessed with her husband), indicated that these words of wisdom, were actually penned by myself. If she insists, I will take credit for such literacy: just as well Rudyard Kipling isn’t still around, he could have some opposition.
We had arranged the day prior to hire a car for our venture. My predictive traits were working rather efficiently, so we were able to secure a small Fiat 500. It proved to be a great little vehicle. This was to be picked up at the nearby Dijon Gare. Fred reckons that I was so excited: I can’t understand why she had this impression; just because I was “red-ee” early: that I had “red” up on the region (purely to assist with maximising the day), I didn’t think I was that exuberant: “I have bottled my emotions”, I remarked. Upon reflection, I think she may have been marginally correct and did appropriately “label” me.
The first sight of vineyards was rather inwardly exciting: for me. Fred’s reaction was more demonstrative than mine. She did not get out of the car in the middle of the Chenove roundabout and start getting down and kissing the rocky, limestone bound soil. Nor did she start practicing being in a Toyota advertisement. I think that she showed a great deal of restraint: “let your emotions go”, I said to Fred. “You’re on holidays, let your hair down !!”. No reaction: I think deep down though, she was awe struck. Superficially calm and appearing not to react: altered for life, deep down !!
Just down the road, was the Bourgogne sign: I had to get a selfie !! Fortunately, Fred convinced me to move the car off the road first; a minor point I felt but to keep the peace, I did so.
We stopped at the Marsannay-de-Cote village and organised a tour of the mighty Chateau down the road. Marsannay is at the northern end of the mini provincale of the Côte et Hautes Côte de Nuits growing area. Small (Le petite) villages with stone fenced roads separating the vehicles and the dwarf like vineyards.
One feature of this almost totally red wine producing region is that the vines a no more than 30-40 centimetres tall. I was to find out later when Fred forcibly coerced me to visit the Chateau Marsannay-la-Côte, that this heightens the grape intensity, albeit cutting down on volume.
The visit to the Chateau was a feature, for Fred: I tolerated it for the almost 3 hours we were there. Just to show how committed I was to ensure that Fred enjoyed herself, I joined in on the tasting of the 8 wines on offer. The reds, entirely Pinot Noir. Even the Rose we started with. Marsannay-la-Côte is the only climat of the Bourgogne region with an appellation in Rose, so we felt rather special that we were able to taste this Pinot Noir “free run juice”, wine. “Appellation d’origine controlee(AOC)”.
So protective are the French of their wines’ reputation, other producers of “champagne” are not allowed to use the word “champagne” on the bottles. Australian “fizzies”, now generally have the variety name on the label.
A similar level of restrictive competition in France exists. For example, Marsannay-la-Côte is the only village-level appellation which may produce rose wines under the Marsannay label !!
We were even able to taste a Grande Cru classification wine. Grande Cru is the top of the appellation hierarchy. We were to note in a nearby restaurant in Gevrey-Chambertin, that these can cost upwards of €500 - €1000 per bottle. We didn’t get one of these, as we had left the eye dropper device at home.
Burgundy wine making is heavily regulated and so the wine is not cheap. “Heavy use of small wood, is typical here”, our wine tasting guide said. Quick off the mark, I indicated to Emmanuel that we call smallwood, “twigs”, in Australia. I just wanted to show an interest and show my rather extensive viticultural knowledge.
Emmanuel also indicated that in the Burgundy region, there was some 1247 “climats” identified: each producing its own style of wine. He highlighted this by giving us a vertical tasting: yes, we were standing. We had been somewhat introduced to this variance by the number of soil profiles we had been shown earlier.
A vertical tasting where he gave us the same vintage but from different parts of the region (Clos Du Roy 2014 was Fred’s favourite, while I preferred Clos De Jeu 2015): totally different wines, most markedly so !!
We had rather prolonged chats about each wine’s characteristics. All wines seemed to be stored under identical conditions in the extensive underground cellars that Fred insisted on visiting. “A cool and constant 12 degrees”, Emmanuel indicated. “My wine is often at 3 degrees” I indicated. “Oh no Monsieur, far too cool”. It was too complicated a story, to explain that I was referring to the “grilling” I get from Fred, when I open too many bottles at home !!
Near the end of the tasting of the exquisite reds, we were then introduced to the 2 white wines (Chardonnay). We questioned Manuel on why whites after reds ? We had been used to the other way around !! He indicated that it was “a Bourgogne thing”. It was certainly different: he gave us a taste of the initial red we tasted after the whites, and it was a completely different wine.
“This Bourgogne order of tasting is certainly one way of reconsidering my wine intake”, indicated Fred. I guess I will tag along with this in the future ?
The rocky soils of the Bourgogne region, had certainly provided us with a unique experience. I felt that Emmanuel could easily identify with my rather vast understanding of viticulture and the associated oenophile information. Indeed, when we were leaving I indicated to Fred that his knowledge base was enhanced with our visit. I didn’t want to nominate myself as the major contributor to his unique learning experience. I think Fred could identify as to whom was the greater “learner” in this case !!
Our wine tasting had reached a conclusive position: not because there was nothing else to talk about or taste, it was now 1230 hours, “and we close for lunch”. Emmanuel was a Dijon local and needed to go home for his break. we moved to the next small village “Fixin’: the place looked OK to me !!
Houses were entirely made from stone: collected from the many vineyards that occupied the whole scene.
Onto the Grande Cru village of Gevrey-Chambertin just down the road where we had lunch in one of the little restaurants after driving around a few of the small vehicular pathways. You couldn’t call them roads; they were too narrow.
We both had potage (soup) and poule (small chicken) for sustenance; resisting the temptation for wine. A very extensive wine menu with some very pricey bottles on offer. I declined the temptation, as I thought that Fred would have to spend too much time in the kitchen to expend the “bill-of-fare”. Besides many of the local wines I hadn’t even heard of.
Subsequent to lunch we continued to drive southward to a village of Nuit-St-Georges: one from which many a French wine had been consumed in the Parno household. well, that’s what Fred tells me; frankly, I can’t recall.
“deux Americano caffe, s'il vous plaît, Monsieur”, I enquired of the Caffe owner. “OK mate” replies the owner. He identified me as an Aussie. I did think however, that he should have used French; much more polite !!
It was from here that we felt that our day had almost exhausted.
Head for home as we had to be back in Dijon by 1800 hours to drop our car back.
We decided to travel back along another faster road and not the Rue Grande Cru we used to wind our way through all of the small villages.
A much faster way back, but not as scenic. Need to fill our little Fiat as the condition of hire required us this. Some €3 later and even the Fiat had a full stomach !!
A little trouble with our GPS in finding our way around Dijon, but after Fred and I exchanging a few pleasantries amongst ourselves (on a couple of times I think she used some naughty French words !!), we were able to get our way back to the Dijon Gare and bid “au revoir” to the car. It was just a few minutes walk back to our hotel: very convenient.
Another home cooked meal with the obligatory bread, cheeses, wine (Italian) and meats.
“Oh la la”
Glenn Parnaby
2019-04-18
I remember very fondly our visit to Nuits ST George. The only problem was that as tourists, you really cannot purchase very much. We did buy some and drank it in Tuscany, before some very good Chianti. I am jealous we are not there.
John S
2019-04-18
I can see now why there was a delay in your correspondence. still I suppose that wi-fi can’t work in those deep cellars. Lovely countryside indeed.
Gayle P
2019-04-18
Think Glenn shared Ian's joy he too was so excited to be in that region his eyes constantly sparkling and a permanent grin and that was before he tasted any wine :))
DavidD
2019-04-19
Great experience among those famous names. Hiring a chinquecento was a good tactic to avoid buying the wine! Did you try any of the famed ‘moutarde’ while in Dijon?