Today I had planned a visit to Novi Sad Serbia's northern town about 80km north of Belgrade. Novi Sad is the capital of the province of Vojvodinia. This was Austrian Hapsburg territory and was lumped into Yugoslavia when it was created at the end of WWI carving up Austrian and Ottoman territories into a new country of Yugoslavia which had never existed before
Historically Vojvodinia was part of Hungary and I don't know what the ethnic split is today between Serbs and Hungarians. Oddly Vojvodinia is the only province that chose to remain with Serbia after the breakup of all the provinces from the 90s onwards although it was also bombed by Nato during the Kosovo campaign
Being historically part of Hungary and Austria I was hoping to see a different style of architecture from what I had seen in Belgrade, and was curious to see how Hungarian in character the town would be
My problems seem to be adding up. Aside from the cold, rain, and camera malfunction, last nite the keys on my computer were locked. Great, I didn't know if my laptop had now died after three years. I think it might be a wifi problem causing everything to lock up because the signal is so bad
Even though the forecast keeps saying the rain will clear by afternoon each day, there was still grey skies and steady drizzle. I went to the bus station not knowing where to buy the ticket. At the international bus terminal they sent me away
I tried asking a driver who couldn't speak english then a taxi driver. At first I thought he said the terminal was 3km away but he meant 300m when he pointed to a red building other side of the road. Then he wanted to now if I was Syrian? Excuse me, can you not interview me when I'm standing in the rain.
In the terminal the counter person said 845 so I thought that was the price but they were telling me the time. Ticket price was 750D ($9). There was a police officer in the back row who didn't have to show a ticket. The same on the way back. I have to see if police are on all the buses like air marshalls
Bus ride was 90 mins. As we went north the clouds started to get lighter. In Novi Sad there was a big street leading from the train station.
It was interesting design with two traffic lanes, an angled parking lane either side, a bike lane next to the parking lane, then a pedestrian lane as wide as the traffic lane either side. This seemed like a planned town and more the image I had of socialist Yugoslavia
Heading to the old town centre the architecture became more Austrian. At the town square was a church with a tall spire which was very northern European looking and not Serbian. Inside it was western european style with seating pews while the orthodox churches have open space for standing. The roof tilework was also similar to churches in Hungary.
The town was much more touristy with coloured two story Austrian homes and long streets lined with outdoor seating. This certainly felt like a town from the Hapsburg Austrian sphere and not Serbian.
I did pass by another Serbian Church but was not as dominant in town as they were in Belgrade.
Crossing the Danube is a fortress on the other side of the river. I wasn't sure if I wanted to go having been to the Belgrade fortress yesterday, and going to visit the Nis fortress tomorrow. I didnt know if I wanted to walk all the way across the bridge and climb all the steps to go up the fortress.
I ended up going and it was certainly worth it. Most of the fortress which is completly intact is now a hotel and restaurants. Nobody was ever able to capture the fortress during the years
There was a museum for 150D ($1.80) entrance. The top floor gallery was really impressive.
It is a long corridor of arches and alcoves which were filled with all kinds of period furniture, display cabinets, pianos, portraits, and many other antique items. The ground floor hall was closed but had more archeological stuff.
At the base of the fortress this side of the river was a small settlement that was much older than the Austrian part of town on the other side. It was much older and medieval looking in poorer state of upkeep, but scenic nonetheless
Heading back to the bus terminal I got a giant tuna sandwich for 140D ($1.70). This time the bus ticket was only 650D ($7.70) and was packed full. I was lucky to get a seat. There were also three police officers this time, one with a gun
Novi Sad was certainly a much more relaxed town than Belgrade with its own unique character so well worth a half day trip from Belgrade. I was back in Belgrade by about 2.20 after arriving after 10am
Remarkably the clouds also started to clear and I saw a peek of blue skies and the sun for the first time since arriving in Serbia
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MikeD
2014-11-10
Vojvodina was not a province. It's an autonomous region in Serbia. Also, it was under Hungarian rule and occupied, not part of Hungary ever.