Athens - Acropolis

Saturday, May 11, 2024
Athens, Greece
The Acropolis of Athens is one of the most of the ancient world for its significance to western civilization, as Europeans have tended to trace the development of their ideas about philosophy and government to Greece as kind of founding civilization.  As such, Athens has been at the top of my list, a spreadsheet literal list. Since I created one more than ten years ago.  Now I finally get to see it!
I had been warned online and by real people about how crowded that Acropolis is.  “Buy your tickets online to avoid the long lines”, they all said.  “Go first thing before it gets hot!” they all said.  “Try to get there before the group tours from the cruise ships arrive”, they advised.  Well, I tried to buy tickets online, and my transaction got cancelled and refunded without tickets. Go early while it’s cool?  It was not hot during our mid-May days in Athens.  The Acropolis is actually open until 8:00 at night, and it’s been my experience that attractions the world over that when attractions stay open late into the evening, they are usually not crowded.   We waited for a clear day, went around 5:00 in the afternoon, experienced no line for tickets at the less busy east entrance near the Acropolis Museum, and found the Acropolis to be busy but not overwhelmed.  And at that time of day there are virtually no annoying guided tour groups.
Regardless of how much I’ve read about the Acropolis or how many pictures I’ve seen of it over my lifetime, the reality was very different from my expectations.  First of all, it is built both on top of and on the slopes of a steep-sided but flat-topped hill. It is higher than I expected and really towers above central Athens, but somehow I expected it to be larger in area, that much of the ancient city was atop the hill rather than merely a political and religious center of the ancient city.  I also expected that more of the ancient site had survived, although as ruins. The fact is that among all the rubble, besides the Parthenon there are only the remains of a few temples and shrines like the Erechtheion, Temple of Poseidon, Propylaia, and Temple of Athena Nike.  You really have to use your imagination to envision what things night have once been during the height of Athenian civilization. Some other sites within the grounds are on the hill’s south slope, including the Theater of Dionysos, Asclepeion, Stoa of Eumenes, and Odeon of Herodus Atticus.
More than any other monument, the Parthenon epitomizes the glory of Ancient Greece. It was the largest Doric temple completed in Greece and constructed entirely of white marble.  The temple’s main purpose was to house a statue to the goddess Athena. Despite numerous conquests and sackings of Athens through the ages since its construction in the 5th century B.C., the Parthenon remained largely intact until 1687 when it was partially destroyed by an explosion of gunpowder the Turks were storing in it.  The metopes (decorative frieze panels) from the façade have largely been removed, some of them taken by Lord Elgin and now held in the British Museum in London as “The Elgin marbles”. Most other original statuary from the Parthenon and Erechtheion have been removed and placed in the Acropolis Museum, replaced with copies that can be exposed to the elements in situ.
The views of Athens in all directions from the Acropolis are spectacular too.  Probably the most classic views of the Acropolis itself are from Areopagus Hill, a short distance to the northwest of the the main entrance.  We made it the last stop on our tour.  It was very fulfilling to finally visit what has for so long been one of my top travel goals.
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2025-05-23

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