Athens - Kolonaki & Mt. Lycabettus

Saturday, May 11, 2024
Athens, Greece
Probably the best view in Athens is not from the Acropolis bur from Mount Lycabettus because you can actually see the Acropolis from it. Situated a short distance northeast of the city center, 908-foot (277 meter) high Mount Lycabettus is the highest hill in central Athens and definitely worth the trip.  It’s not much of a feat for an experienced hiker, but it’s also possible to cheat and take a funicular to the top after a significant hike up hilly streets and stairs to its bottom station. In ancient times the hill was believed to have been created by Athena and to be a dwelling place of wolves.  Nowadays there’s a chapel dedicated to Saint George at the top, along with a restaurant. The real reason to come, though, is the spectacular view of the whole Athens metropolitan area. 
From the summit you can recognize how vast Athens actually is, with a metropolitan population somewhere over three million.  It also makes you realize how small tourist Athens is in the scheme of things.  In over four days in the city we were able to walk to everything of touristic interest without having to take the metro or taxis at all, except for the metro ride from the airport on our arrival and a taxi to the port at Pireaus for departure.   The Acropolis looks far from Mount Lycabettus, but the reality is that it is probably less than two miles away as the crow flies – very easy to hoof.
The hilly neighborhood along Lycabettus lower flanks is called Kolonaki and is one of the most posh in Athens.  Despite its glorious history and reputation, much of Athens has a somewhat run down look to it, covered with graffiti, and with some obvious poverty. The Kolonaki neighborhood between the mount on one side and Parliament and Athens Museum Row on the other is the exception.  It is also less touristy than center around the Plaka and Monasteriki closer to the Acropolis.  Rodrigo and I took Lonely Planet’s advice and had dinner one night at Oikeio restaurant in the neighborhood for what I think was a less expensive and much more authentic dining experience than you’d find in the tourist zones.  We ate the Greek way, sharing numerous delicious, reasonably-priced but not large dishes.  Real Greek food is nothing like the cliché stuff you find in Greek restaurants elsewhere in Europe of America that also dominate Athens’ tourist zones.  But more on Greek food in a later entry.
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