Monasteraki and Plaka are two neighborhoods that blend into
each other to the north of the Acropolis that form the tourist heart of the
city. Supposedly, when Athens was
declared the capital of modern Greece after independence two centuries ago,
Athens had shrunk to a small town within the confines of what is now the Plaka between
the Acropolis and where parliament is now located. At this point its largely
pedestrianized streets are largely given over to hotels, restaurants, stores and
other businesses that serve tourist needs. The Plaka is rather pretty,
especially the parts of it that slope up to the Acropolis base but also feels
kind of fake. I doubt many people actually reside in the neighborhood anymore,
and places given over entirely to tourism don’t usually appeal very much to
me. I’m clearly in the minority in that
view, though.
Monasteraki is the area immediately west of Plaka that
surrounds a crowded central square of the same name. The Metro station there, which like several
in the Athens system contains its own archeological site, is where Rodrigo and
I emerged into sunlight again on our entry into the city from the airport, only
a few blocks from our very basic but centrally located hotel.
If ever there was a place for pickpockets to
hang out in Athens, it would be Monasteraki Square! Monasteraki is known for being the location
of Athens flea market, although nowadays most of its crowded lanes are just a
tourist souvenir market. The exception
to that rule is Avysinnias Plaza, which is still surrounded by stores selling
used bric-a-brac.
Both neighborhoods surround several of Athens other
archaeological exaction sites below the Acropolis – Roman Agora, Ancient Agora,
and Hadrian’s Library – creating an appealing contrast between old and
new.
It would seem most travelers to Athens love the lively outdoor
restaurants along the area’s plazas and narrow streets. My take on it, though, is those places are
best to avoid. If there are menus in
twelve different languages, virtually identical at all restaurants with the cliché
Greek dishes you are familiar with from Greek restaurants in your home country,
and tours outside encouraging you to enter for a good meal, the place is bound
to have overpriced mediocre food that is best avoided. I also have little interest in either the tacky
souvenirs in the shops or the overpriced luxury goods in others. In my opinion, Plaka and Monasteraki are
worth a wander but shouldn’t be the focus of a trip to Athens.
2025-05-23