Naxos, Greece
Naxos is the largest of the Cycladic Isles, a significant
tourist destination as they all are, but less well-known that swankier Mykonos
and Santorini. I decided it would be fun
to see a third island in the area besides the big two and planned three nights
with two full days on Naxos. The island is known for many things, but one is
the Chora (old town) of Naxos city, with a beautiful harbor, scenic seaside remains
of ancient temple, and a walled Kastro (castle quarter) overlooking it all. While Naxos is definitely not off-the-beaten
path, it’s also not quite as overrun with cruise ship passengers on day
excursions and group tours that focus on maximizing the number of top sights to
be seen in minimal time. It struck me as
being more popular with holidaymakers – people on a relaxing beach vacation.
Our hotel on the island, the Argo Boutique Hotel, was near
the beach a little south of the Chora, and one of the nicest places we stayed
for only about $65 USD/night for two, including a nice buffet breakfast with numerous
Greek specialties for the birthday boy.
May 18th, our last day on the island, is Rodrigo’s birthday,
so he could have anything he wanted to eat. Among other things, he chose
grilled octopus at a harborside fish restaurant.
I somewhat preferred our first night’s restaurant after our
long walk around the sites of Naxos Chora.
Doukato is the restaurant most strongly recommended in my Lonely Planet
guide, a strategy for finding restaurants I like to be better than Tripadvisor
ratings. Anyway, there we picked three specialties of the Naxos – Octopus
Giouvetsi (octopus, orzo, tomatoes, oregano, dill), Kalogeros (eggplant with veal
stew and Graviera Cheese), and Naxos Gouna (Sun-Dried Mackerel). It was one of
our best meals in Greece.
Naxos Chora isn’t quite as picture perfect and posh as that
on Mykonos, but it also isn’t as crowded or as expensive. Happy Hour Cocktails can be had for 6 Euros
instead of the 24 Euros on Mykonos, and the narrow lanes inside and around the walled
Chora have amore authentic feel, many still seemingly lived in rather than only
serving as tourist accommodations and services. The views from the café/restaurant
on top are spectacular in all directions, as are the views of the Chora &
Kastro from the distance at the seaside Temple of Apollo across a short
causeway. Naxos still feels like the real Greece.
2025-05-23