The towns through the Ararat Valley are a bit depressing--and all pretty much look alike. But in his next town Dimitrov, the Traveler has an encounter that will stick with him forever. Heading down a side street, a fellow in a beat up old Lada pulls up next to him, curious as to what the Traveler is doing doing. Unlike in Azerbaijan, people don't approach him very much here in Armenia, but when they do--they're quite insistent.

"Tourist" the Traveler says .

A tourist wandering around Dimitrov? No, that doesn't convince him. He insists that the Traveler come to his house for coffee--and the fellow is so determined to get a proper explanation, that he brings a neighbor girl who speaks English so she can translate. They stop at a store to buy ice cream then go to his house. The Traveler is excited about the opportunity to see the inside of an Armenian home--"I just hope he didn't spend too much money on the ice cream..." he thinks to himself.

The inside of the house is pretty basic in it's furnishings--however on one side is a standup piano. I ask who plays and my host says his wife used to... Now that piano looks like a relic from another era... the Communist Soviet era perhaps? Did the end of Communism mean the end of music, dance and the arts for many Armenians? Which system is really sad and depressing... The communist system or the new neo-capitalist system?

I'll need to travel more through the post-communist world to figure this out ...

They do lay out a feast of a "snack" for the Traveler... fruit... chocolates... ice cream... coffee. He wishes he had some way he could reciprocate.

He asks the host where he works. The translator (a college student) seems to have trouble explaining. "We have a special word for it in Armenian--someone who does various odd jobs... no really regular job... fixing things... delivering things... Very few people have regular "jobs" here in Armenia"

They ask the Traveler where he's from. When he mentions that he's spent time in Muslim countries, the response is abrupt.

"We're not hospitable to Muslims--because of Turkey and Azerbaijan"

Oh crap. he looks down at the food that was served to him, wondering if they're regretting inviting him!

He thinks quick for a way to respond . "But what about Iran? They're Muslims. Do you get along with Iran?"

Yes, they respond... Iran is OK. Looks like he handled that situation well.

Later as he thinks about it, he's struck by the irony. In this corner of the world it seems everybody has an ongoing conflict with somebody... Georgia is in conflict with Russia... Armenia is in conflict with Turkey and Azerbaijan... So who is the "good neighbor" who gets along with everybody? Iran! It's in good relations with Russia, Georgia, Turkey, Armenia and Azerbaijan!

This country which has been demonized by the west for decades as the "Great Threat to Civilization" is actually a pretty good neighbor here in the Caucasus. I'm definitely seeing the world from another angle from here from here in the Caucasus.

Actually, Iran has a sizeable Armenian Christian population, and their rights are respected, they have their own schools and preserve their own culture . As he learns later, for centuries some of the Armenians were ruled by the Ottoman Empire and some by the Persians. Those who were ruled by the Persians clearly fared much better, to this very day.

Iran has a large Azeri minority as well--however they tell me that they don't share that same freedom to maintain their cultural distinction as the Armenians.

"The medal winning wrestlers in Iran are in fact Azeris" I'm told "but they must hold up the Iranian flag"

Anyways... the rest of the conversation with his host goes fine. He asks if life was better under the Soviets, and the aswer is an emphatic yes...

"We had jobs... we had stability... we lived in peace instead of at war... we could move around freely"

The Traveler glances again over at the piano. A symbol of happier times. Happier times under Communist Russia.

He thanks his kind hosts, and continues on up the road.