Day 3-028
6 hrs, 3 .9 kms

The landscape changes as I continue west. The lush green is now replaced by semi-arid scrub covering the mountainous landscape, interrupted occasionally by fertile irrigated valleys. It actually looks identical to the scenery I experienced for 8 years living in Northwest Mexico.

If I let my mind wander for just a few moments, I soon drift off and imagine myself riding the bus up through the Sonoran desert. The people's physique looks a little different--but other than that everything's the same. Really, Dominican Republic feels more mainland Latin America than "Caribbean". Last year I explored 5 Caribbean island countries, and on each of these islands you know your in the Caribbean... the sea dominates every aspect of life. Not here.

I look for other subtle distinctions of this culture. Dominican's typically are dark skinned, but with a bit more European facial features. I notice that almost all the women straighten their naturally curly hair . I read up on it later and learn that, yes, this is distinctly a Dominican thing, as straight hair is considered more classy and presentable. I wonder if it's because Dominicans identify more with Latin American cultures and most Latin Americans (being of Spanish and Indian descent) have straight hair. Dominicans perhaps subconsciously want to be part of "that club" and try to mask their African heritage.

I notice that anyone who is just a little darker than average is automatically refered to as "moreno" or "morena" (dark skinned) it doesn't seem to be intended as an insult.... just a habit and no one seems to take offense. Sometimes I'm refered to as "rubio" or fair-skinned.

On a bus near the Haitian border, the police get on and say "todos los morenos alistan sus papeles!" (all the dark skinned people get your papers ready!) Obviously this would cause an uproar if said in the United States... but here it's perfectly normal.

Dominicans are quieter and more serious than other Caribbean cultures . Most folks are reasonably polite--although not nearly as polite as, say, Costa Ricans.

The houses, however, gradually shift from mainly cinderblock to a more Caribbean feel--some are basic wood frames with horizontal slats and tin roofs... others hav a woven stick frame with a cement mix covering it. Farming is clearly king in these parts. I wonder how many of the folks toiling out in the fields are Dominicans and how many are Haitians. I do see some workers that appear to be Dominicans, but asking people later I learn that this is the exception.

"Nowadays Dominicans don't want to do farm work or work in construction--they own the land but Haitians do all the hard work."

Finally I reach the city of San Juan. At the entrance to the city there's a monument with a tall statue of an Indian. Not many monuments to the original natives--so I'd better take advantage of this one. It is quite an impressive statue, with the fellows hand reaching out with a gesture "Stop! don't come here!" Around there are various bas relief images of life in pre-Colombian DR . Behind is another statue of an African in chains being brought on a boat... and on the side a contrasting image with a Biblical figure reaching out, bringing the "good news"

It is nice to see a bit more balanced and honest depiction of Dominican Republic's painful history.

Heading into town, I soon realize that this is not the only monument here. In fact, San Juan has undergone a major makeover since Matthew and I stopped here in 2006. There's another plaza dedicated to a professor--with benches shaped like giant books... another plaza set up for people to deliver speeches (with a camera crew getting ready)... There's a huge, life size manger scene and arch leading towards downtown... a brand new indoor shopping center... more statues built alongside the bridge with a giant mural with scenes from the region as a backdrop.

What's going on here? Well, there's a poster that offers a clue . It shows the current mayor (a lady) surrounded by images of all these new city projects, with clear message: "re-elect me... I get stuff done"

Clearly this city did have an ambitious mayor, eager to leave her mark on the city... But I wonder, at what cost? Should these funds have been spend on more important stuff? My thoughts go back to Azerbaijan, where their dictator has had big parks and monuments built in every city... while at the same time, all the factories are shutting down and most of the streets are still unpaved.

Anyways, I won't be too skeptical--just enjoy finally coming across a more photogenic town.

With elections coming, most of the billboards show various candidates running for local or national office. I do notice a good mix of people--men, women... folks of more Spanish ancestry and folks of more African ancestry. Unlike many Latin American countries where those of European descent still hold the financial and political power.