Peter was really keen to travel "Waterfall Way" and we were advised that it was not a good idea to take the vans that way! Hence the reason we went further north to Glen Innes before crossing the Great Dividing Range to Grafton. So we decided we would go all the way to Armidale on 'Waterfall Way', whilst at Coffs Harbour. We would stay the night at one of these beautiful old pubs that we have seen in a number of towns. There had been a couple in Armidale with verandahs and that lovely white cast iron work. You know the look! French doors opening out onto the verandahs!
When Peter rang around, he found that most don't do accommodation anymore. So the best he could do was the Royal and it no longer had a balcony! We hoped we could fit in a tour of a stately old home, that was only open on weekends, so we decided to go on Friday and back Saturday. Well we learnt that Friday night is not a good night to stay at a pub! How old are we getting to not think about that! Or maybe the age bit is about...not tolerating the need to party anymore! Drinks before dinner was nice. There were flat screens TV's everywhere in the pub. DVD music was on one, rugby on another and keno on another. So we believed we would be right to be kept in touch with the Scorchers playing the Hurricanes at 7.30pm over dinner! That of course was "The Big Bash" final at the Wacca.! All went to plan until 10.00pm! As the big hand hit 12, so did the volume button on the music and we were a rockin! We didn't hang about!
Forced upstairs to a TV lounge area we watched the WA boys bring home the money, to the vibration of the music down below. All the time wondering just how long this would go on for! Well I guess it did stop in the pub soon after midnight (surely that is when they are supposed to close the doors) but people really should have consideration for others and go home! But then when you have a belly full of alcohol who cares! Fortunately for me, I was really tired and slept quite well. But I can't say that it was the same for the four of us! There is that saying "You are never too old to learn"! And we learnt. If you want to experience a night in an 'Old Pub' with the floorboards creaking, choose a night earlier in the week!
'Waterfall Way' was just magnificent and well worth putting up with the noise at the pub! The rain earlier in the week had certainly freshened everything up and the scenery was like turning page after page of a picture book. And with digital cameras you just can't stop yourself clicking! No need to worry about another roll of film!
We headed south of Coffs Harbour and turned off just before the town of Urunga. Out through dairy fields and in no time we had travelled the 12 kms to the town of Bellingen. Here we visited the 1927 'Old Butter Factory' with its unique concrete arch beams in the roof. One of the first to be built with these beams at that time. The butter factory ceased operation in 1963 and after being used for machinery storage and then a private residence, was resold in 1991 and developed into an exclusive craft and tourism complex. The furniture and homewares business, leather shop and restaurant were VERY nice. There were two leather craftsmen working away, crafting magnificent pieces, with prices to match.
We probably stayed too long there, or certainly the guys thought so! But by the time Val and I had drooled over various pieces of furniture, bowls and leather handbags, it was time for morning tea. The restaurant is obviously very popular. There were plenty of people there having a late breakfast and it was obvious some had walked the dog at the same time! Well we hope the dogs had had a walk, before patrons had to share the place with them! We likened Bellingen to Denmark and the golf course opposite was a VERY nice too!
The next stop was the Dorrigo National Park, 760 metres above sea level on the escarpment. We definitely had breathtaking views travelling the next 35 kms, with lots of twists and turns for Pete to capably negotiate. We were happy clicking and gasping! It was a clear day and we could see the Pacific Ocean on the coastline at Urunga from the treetop lookout at Dorrigo. There was a 75 metre treetop walk to take in these magnificent views. From there we took the path and got down amongst the ferns, rotting leaves, twisting vines and damp rich volcanic soil. It definitely has a smell all of its own!
The Dorrigo area is rich volcanic soil, which apart from the time 18 million years ago when the Ebor volcano erupted, has been continuous rain forest, remaining damp and bush fire free! It is also a World Heritage area. Lunch was at one of the Dorrigo pubs. Another heritage one! A $10.00 deal that became a little more, but the marketing out the front, tempted us in the door! From there it was a short drive to Dangar Falls and a short walk for the photo shoot of a very scenic waterfall. It would be quite spectacular in a wetter year.
On we travelled to Ebor and more waterfalls on the Guy Fawkes River. Our next stop was to the LP Dutton Trout Hatchery at Ebor on the Serpentine River. In 1959 the NSW State Fisheries assumed control of all hatcheries and in 1987 the Visitors Centre at the Trout Hatchery was officially opened. We fed rainbow trout and learnt how the eggs were stripped from the females, sperm milked from the males and about the huge breeding programme that takes place from April through to August/September. By then the baby trout (called fry) are big enough to be put in bags and boxed for the fishing clubs to collect and place in the rivers. Around 2 million trout fry are bred here each year for distribution. I was intrigued with who paid for all of this! Did the fishing clubs have to purchase the trout fry? No! It is funded by the government and fishing licences offset the cost. Well I guess the licences go some of the way!
On we travelled to the last waterfall that was definitely a "Drought One"! Wollomombi Falls would also be very spectacular with plenty of water! The Chandler River falls into the gorge on the right and the Wollomombi River on the left. This gorge and falls are about 35 kms from Armidale.
Saturday and our Heritage Tour of Armidale - This was great, but boy did we get information overload and learn heaps about the town. That is if we could retain it! I did say 'IF' we could retain it! Our driver and tour guide was Alan. There are plenty of stats below. Seeing we did the tour, me being me, I need to try and prepare something from my notes!
Armidale is known as the "City of Four Seasons", "City of Churches" and the "City of Education". It is also "The Highest Town in Australia". So many of the towns in NSW have an entry statement and a claim to fame! Armidale's is "The Highest Town in Australia". Alan told us of the others! The altitude of the town is around 1150 metres or 3,500 feet above sea level. The town has crisp, frosty mornings in the winter, but fresh clear days. Temperature is between minus 10 degrees and 18 degrees throughout July/August. They seldom have multiple days in excess of 30 degrees during the summer months and Autumn is the magic season as there are thousands of European species of trees in the town. It has been very dry this summer, but they have a town water supply that was designed for 100,000 people and with a population of 25,000 they have never experienced water restrictions.
The City has two huge Cathedrals and seven Secondary Schools. The latest addition is a Brethren College and 14 of the students travel the 1 1/2 hour journey each way from Tamworth, to attend the college. The male and female Catholic Colleges amalgamated in 1988, but boarding facilities are only for males now! Interesting isn't it gals! One of the stately buildings overlooking the town (maybe the girls boarding house) is now the Conservatory of Music. It was interesting that one of the first things we were told on the tour, and this was as we went past the Royal Hotel where we had stayed the night before, was that it was the only hotel in Armidale that has retained its original name and is still open for business. Doesn't have a balcony any longer, but it did at one time and it's claim to fame is that it still is 'The Royal'! There was a structure we could see outside the window of the room Kevin's & Val tried to get some sleep in! Maybe they could have climbed out the window and stood in it, to wave as a 'Royal'. Or maybe though they could have used it to tell the noisy patrons where to go!
- 1839 - George James MacDonald officially gazetted as Commissioner of Crown Lands for the New England District and MacDonald names Armidale after the MacDonald estate and castle 'Armidale" on the Isle of Skye.1849 - Surveyor Galloway's plan approved and Armidale gazetted a town.1851 - Town has a population of 547 and there are 5 Inns, four stores and two breweries. Two breweries for 547 people - No wonder they were noisy at the Royal on Friday 7th February 2014!
- 1861 - Telegraphic communication with Sydney and Brisbane was established and the first National (State) School started.
- 1870 - The bushranger Thunderbolt was shot near Uralla.
- 1878 - The decision was made to bring the railway through Armidale instead of Inverell. Armidale does still have a daily service to and from Sydney, but this is only due to the community protesting in 2003. The train sleeps in Armidale each night. We wonder how much longer this will continue.
- 1885 - Became the City of Armidale even though they did not have the required population of 30,000.
- 1889 - The State Bank of NSW building was erected and the Imperial Hotel built. The NSW Bank started business in Armidale in 1868.
- 1898 - Dumaresq Dam was constructed, the Court House clock tower and wrought iron gates erected. There were two Dumaresq brothers who came to the Armidale area and became large owners of land. One in the town area and the other a little south. The brothers were referred to many times, as the history of the town was related to us.
- 1912 - The Cathedral of St Mary and St Joseph was opened and dedicated and the last six hangings took place at the Armidale Goal.
- 1920 - Goal dis-established.
- 1928 - Armidale Teachers College started and this was the first regional Teaching College in NSW. David Henry Drummond was responsible for this and had been planning for it for many years in a number of different ways. He had his colleagues purchase a building that he knew would be suitable for the living quarters for trainee teachers. Drummond was elected as a member of the New South Wales Legislative Assembly in 1920. He was Minister for Education from 1927 to 1930 and 1932 to 1941. He also helped establish the University of New England.
- 1938 - The "New England University" commenced as a College of Sydney University and this is regarded as a very historical event. The growth of the University is history the locals are really proud of and understandably so.
The final stop on the tour was to the University and we were told the history of the magnificent stately building and how the University started. How 10,000 pound was raised from 1932 - 1938 to enable the summer home of the English White family to become the University for only 5 students in its first year. Mr White died in 1903 and Mrs White 30 years later. None of the family had the money to purchase the home, so the building went to auction twice, but did not sell. Drummond had a dream for a University in Armidale and he continued to pursue it and finally saw it realised. Today there are 5,000 resident students at the University and 15,000 study through the "Distance Education Courses" available. The results achieved by students have always been extremely commendable and recently internet links and medical courses have been established through a university in America. A relative of the White family who owned an adjoining property gifted it to the University on her death and the campus now encompasses 300 acres. The White residence was used for administration until recently when a new administration block was built. Part of the stately home is now a beautiful restaurant and at times the numerous other rooms are open for viewing.
- 1954 - The University of New England became autonomous.
- 1955 - The City Council purchased the swimming baths from TG Monkton. Monkton was an olympic backstroker. It is said that he chose backstroke because in Armidale it was too cold to put your face in the water.
- 1970 - Mall established just down from the Royal Hotel. We had breakfast there in the mall..
- 1988 - Current Armidale Visitor Centre and Coach Station was officially opened. Well I did say we had information overload! There was a volunteer recruit on the bus and I think she learnt that you must keep the tour to under 3 hours, not over! Pete was anxious to get on the road back to Coffs. He had those twists and turns to negotiate again. We convinced him we weren't having Red Rooster for lunch and we would survive until we got back to Ebor.
So a very healthy home-baked sandwich really hit the spot at 2.30pm! Silverside, cheese and pickle from Mrs Fusspots was Pete's choice and the other three of us had salad in ours! We reckon the bread really was home-baked! Another very enjoyable couple of days sightseeing and another huge blog!!!
2025-05-22