MacchuPicchu; Aguas Calientes; Cusco-Monasterio

Wednesday, March 11, 2020
Machu Picchu, Cusco, Peru
                MACHU PICCHU 
Hernan went back to Cusco last night so we are on our own this morning.
Keith hiking up Machu Picchu (Montana) Mountain. He got an 8am ticket to climb, thanks to the desk clerk that went above and beyond to get him one at the last minute. Randy getting things organized & enjoy the hotel. Barb and I are going into MP when it opens at 6. Quick buffet breakfast, then off to the Citadel to see the Temples that were closed yesterday. No line at the ticket booth; this is definitely a good time of the year to come here.

A picture-perfect morning with the mist rolling through the mountains' valleys. Most people go directly up to the higher viewpoints. We headed for the Citadel watching the sun as it popped up over the mountains.

Couldn't believe there were so few people as we entered the City. 

Sat for a bit in the upper complex of buildings looking down as mist rolled through the valley.
Steep climb up to the SunDial (Intithuatana).
  • Known as the “hitching post of the sun,”  many archaeologists believe this carved stone structure served as some kind of calendar. Designed to admit the light of the rising sun before and after the December solstice, it sits at one of the highest points of the ruins.

Wandering through the High Group area, the mist started rolling in and out. Sat on the walls high above the Urubamba River mesmerized by how quickly it changed. One moment totally clear, the next engulfed in fog - the mystic feeling you read about.
Temple of Condor:  A natural rock formation the Inca stonemasons shaped into the outspread wings of a condor in flight. Didn't open for two more hours so didn't get to go inside. From the entrance, you can make out an actual condor--
  • wings are formed by two diagonal outcrops of rock rising up above the temple entrance, with the condor’s head and beak carved into a smooth, flat rock on the ground   
So glad we got up early.  Only encountered a few other people the entire time we walked through the city.
"Machu Picchu is the Jewel in the crown of our history, the epitome of man in harmony with his natural surroundings."  TIHNKUY by Josefina Barrón 

Better than anything we could have ever hoped for.  Very Lucky!
          Perfect weather
          Perfect Guide 
          Perfect Experience. 
Neither words or pictures can explain the magnificence of this place.
Magic moments that will be with us for the rest of our lives!  
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Worked up an appetite. Back to hotel for a leisurely brunch of french toast (excellent) & pancakes.  Keith got back around 11; can't believe he hiked to the top and down in 2.5 hours; nice to be young.
            noon: AGUAS CALIENTES  (in Spanish means hot waters or hot springs).  
Took the Bus down around noon even though we don't have to be at the train station until 3. Want to spend some time seeing the town. Across from the bus stop is an Inca statue.  According to legend, the last Emperor Túpac Amaru of the Inca was executed and he became a condor and flew away.

Walked to Indio Feliz (Hernan recommended for lunch). What a cute place. Sat at an outside table along a tiny walkway lane. Very amusing looking around inside at the interesting decor.  Wonderful, friendly staff that were lots of fun!

Lots of laughs with our waiter, Alfredo "Fettucini."   Food excellent: veggie & fruit plates; pineapple chicken with caribbean rum sauce.
 
Nice walk through town.
Great view from bridge over the river that runs through town. About 5 guys were pushing hand carts of supplies up the street; don't see that where we live.  
About an hour until boarding time for the train. Belmond Lounge at the train station a great spot to wait. Local craft market in front of Machu Picchu Train Station for last-minute souvenirs. 
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                         VISTADOME TRAIN 
Boarded at 3:30 for the trip to Ollantaytambo.  Had tables to ourselves this time since the train wasn't full. 

Entertainment on the return trip: dancing inspired by the ancient culture of the Andes and a fashion show, featuring the exclusive baby alpaca wool collection. The three train attendants were very entertaining!  Saqra, a traditional dance where the dancer dresses as an animal figure. In a bull folklore costume, she danced in the aisle mimicking and making fun of the bull. (Saqra means roguery, restlessness, agility or mischief in English.) 

Lots of clapping and getting passengers to dance with her. The two train attendants did a fashion show of baby alpaca collection. Showed how to transform each item to wear in multiple ways; scarves converted to capes, skirts became dresses.

A "wild" train group applauding, cheering, and whistling--especially for the guy. He seemed embarrassed; thought the crowd was unhappy. We reassured him that the more yelling, the better everyone liked him. Super fun time!!

Stunning scenery. especially with lots of sunshine. Great views of the Glacier with sun hitting it. People working in the fields. Absolutely loved this slowly winding journey through the Andes.  
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                              pm--DRIVE Ollantaytambo to Cusco
Short walk to where Issac was waiting with the van. Big traffic jam; cars parked along the street, cars trying to go both ways in one lane; utter chaos!. Issac got out to direct traffic and have people move cars; crazy place. No one got got upset, and he got things moving. Probably is a regular occurrence.

Drove past the main square, then out of the town; enjoyed seeing children dancing and playing in the yard. 
Since the roads were dry, could drive directly to Cusco from here, rather than going to the road from Urubamba. 


Driving through the Canyon was beautiful, but What a Drive! Curvy, winding road with unbelievable views sometimes straight down from the road's edge. The red dirt reminded us of Georgia. One place had a massive landslide that was being fixed. Driving around it meant being way too close to the edge; whoa, it's a long way down.
Even more frightening since it's almost dark. Didn't realize we were going on an Adventure Drive!  We called it Issac's "Mr "Toad's Wild Ride." 
Through the villages in the dark with people and animals walking along the road's edge also a bit hazardous. Glad Issac is such a good driver.

                                              CUSCO
Welcome Sign and lots of sparkling city lighting up the mountain. Can't believe how many gas stations here.

At Plaza de Armas, a traffic jam around the busy square. Blocking the road were a group of police-escorted protesters. Apparently, this happens all the time; who knows what this one is about.

7:45 yea, we're at the hotel. Check in was quick, put bags in room, and ready to get a pizza. Hotel staff recommended    Brew Dog about a block away. Short wait for a table. Excellent pizza and carbonara; however, the pizza with the garlic crust had way too much garlic, even though we all like garlic.


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                              MONASTERIO BELMOND HOTEL
Read about this hotel in "1,000 Things to See Before you Die."  
  • Now a National Historic Landmark, the building sits on the site of Inca Amaru Qhala’s palace originally built in 1592. Spanish took it over and founded the Seminary of San Antonio Abad. However, an earthquake seriously damaged the building in 1650 and during restoration the beautiful Chapel was added. In 1965, the building was remodeled as a hotel. It's a rare combination of luxury and history with comfortable rooms that were former monks' cells. They have been enlarged, and their antique furniture, carved wooden beds, and marbled baths create a setting that is a far cry from the monastic.   
Great location two blocks from Plaza de Armas. Our room. a junior suite, was lovely with the Spanish-colonial decor. Didn't realize it would be on 2 floors with the bedroom loft upstairs, the bathroom & living room downstairs. Not too happy about that; tolerable for only for two nights. This corner room next to the parking lot proved to be not so great at night when car alarms went off nonstop all night long. Even with this disturbed sleep issue, would definitely recommend staying here.
 
Staff: the utmost professional, helpful, friendly. Manager very apologetic about night noise offering to move us to another room. He could not have been nicer or more accommodating. Nice parting souvenir. 

Breakfast buffet, included with the room, had a great selection. Beautiful location along the courtyard, even a guitar player. Lovely way to start the day.

Built around several gorgeous stone courtyards with manicured gardens, Monasterio is a breathtakingly beautiful place. The central garden has a fountain and an old cedar tree that is 300 years old.  After dark the candlelit courtyards look like a romantic film set with the lights going up the mountain in the background.

This ancient monastery was a wonder to explore. Felt like being in ancient times going through the stone passageways leading from one courtyard into another.

The graceful arched cloisters surrounding the courtyards are lined with beautiful colonial paintings and antiques. Walking around feels like visiting a museum.

Gorgeous gilded Chapel with artwork dating from the 17th century. Such a reverent feeling complete with church music playing. Chapel is not used for meetings.

As we entered, saw someone leaving through the secret door (see picture: behind the alter on far left is a framed picture--that's the door.) Are we in a spy movie? 

Bar in lobby was a great place to relax in the evening. Really enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere with the blazing fire in the fireplace; perfect way to end a busy day. 

Loved the history of the Monasterio and its old-world elegance.  

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2025-05-23

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