With its cobbled alleys, enormous balconies shrouded in bougainvillea and massive churches casting their shadows across leafy plazas, Cartagena de Indias is the most beautiful city in Colombia. Founded in 1533, it was the main Spanish port on the Caribbean coast and the gateway to the north of the continent. Treasure plundered from the indigenous people was stored here until galleons were able to ship it back to Spain. The city suffered from multiple sieges including one led by Francis Drake in 1586. In response, the Spaniards made Cartagena an impregnable port with elaborate walls encircling the town and a series of large forts.

Although the port city has expanded dramatically, very little has changed within the old walled town itself, and walking along 'Las Murallas' especially when the city was lit-up at night was very atmospheric . Just outside the walls stands 'Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas', the greatest fortress constructed by the Spanish in any of their colonies. Whilst not particularly aesthetically-pleasing, the imposing size and the complex system of tunnels were impressive.

Of course being on the Caribbean coast, Cartagena is surrounded by stunning beaches. We took a boat around the Islas del Rosario, an archipelago of 27 small coral islands, before stopping for a traditional beach lunch at the picturesque Playa Blanca. After opting out of the 'polar plunge' in Antarctica, Sophie very much appreciated the warm Caribbean waters.

Onward bus to Santa Marta, 4hrs.