Belem's wealth comes from its position at the gateway to the Amazon - everything from timber to soya beans passes through here before going to market. We wandered along the mango tree-lined boulevards of this prosperous city and were impressed with the regenerated docks and historic centre around the old fortress. One of Belem's finest rubber-boom buildings is the Teatro da Paz, an elegant theatre which was preparing to host an international opera festival at the time of our visit. At Belem's lively riverfront market, smells of Amazonian herbal remedies and dried shrimp wafted through the air. We were rejuvenated by a coconut refreshment complimented with some freshly de-shelled Brazil nuts.

Onward journey to Cayenne, French Guinea via Macapa .

The most eventful leg of this journey was from Macapa to Oiapoque, a rough-and-ready border town, which was to take 22 hours. It was wet season so the bus service had been suspended. Undeterred, we asked around at the bus station and eventually found a 4x4 which was doing a supply run to Oiapoque. The road was atrocious as we made our way, slipping and sliding, north through the rainforest. We passed a number of larger vehicles that had been abandoned in the sticky mud, one of which had blocked the 'road' completely. However, the innovative drivers had created a diversion through the thick vegetation, involving each vehicle being towed up a steep sludgy hill. Unfortunately, by the time it was our turn it was 11pm and raining so efforts were put off until first light. We had a less than comfortable night in the back of a hot car and were very relieved to finally arrive in the border town. The joys of overland travel. After a quick visit to the Policia Federal to stamp out of Brazil, we commandeered a boat to take us across the river to French Guinea.