Ciudad Perdida (literally, 'Lost City') is one of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas. It was founded some 650 years before Machu Picchu on the northern slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, and was probably the Tayronas' biggest urban centre. During their conquest, the Spaniards pretty much wiped out the Tayronas, and their settlements disappeared under the lush tropical vegetation. Ciudad Perdida was 'discovered' four centuries later in 1972, when a group of local treasure looters found a series of stone steps rising up the mountainside and followed them to the abandoned city.

Ciudad Perdida sits at an altitude of between 950m and 1300m . The central part of the city is set on a ridge, from which various stone paths descend. There are about 150 stone terraces that once served as foundations for the houses - up to 8,000 people were thought to have once lived here.

It took us 3 days to 'find' the Lost City, and at times it felt like we were cast in an Indiana Jones movie as we traversed rivers up to our waists, fended off the insects and climbed the final 1,200 steps through dense jungle up to the city. We were soaking wet for most of the trek, whether it be from the most torrential downpours or sheer sweat from the tropical heat. Added to this our lifeline of water could not be trusted. Most of our party succumbed to the ill-effects of bacteria-ridden river water, including Sophie who spent most of the second day vomiting and walking very slowly. Fortunately, she soldiered on and we were able to enjoy the stunning rainforest scenery.

We returned to Santa Marta for a day of relaxation on the beach. Onward journey to Medellin via a last-minute bargain flight - only $20US more expensive than the 16-hour bus!