We had a very basic breakfast from the BnB. They had offered us food for breakfast in the room but as it was juice in a pack, yoghurt, the European dry toast and packaged croissants we didn't eat a lot, but we had milk for tea and coffee.

The taxi arrived on time although with no taxi logo . It may have been genuine but the thought did cross my mind that it was a friend of the BnB people earning a bit of cash. However it was a very comfortable ride and we got to the Vatican Musee early. We had a 10 minute margin, he also had a 10 minute margin and the Musee asked us to be there 20 minutes before the tour so we were under no pressure. Of course, because of this we immediately found the correct entrance, where there was no queue, had no problems in security and no wait at the correct window which was clearly labeled. Irene had not slept well, in part because she was worried that the tickets were a scam or something, so she was very relieved to see someone with the same computer printout right at the start.

The guide was excellent. Irene had booked through the Musee site, so our guide was an official Vatican guide. It costs 15 euro to go in normally, but we paid 32 euro which gave us the 'skip the line’ entry and a guided tour with headphones. At the end we had the option of staying in the Museum to see more, or entry to the Basilica which avoids the security lines. I had thought we could manage with the information in the museum but was wrong – it was well worth the extra to get the overview.

The tour started with 20 minutes looking at a roller screen. This sound odd but there is no talking in the Sistene Chapel so she went through the art work in the Chapel first . We were told to look at the side walls to see the story of Moses on one side and Christ on the other. There are 6 panels for each and the same artist had done the matching panels. She then pointed out key features in Michelangelo’s work. The guide was an archeologist but sounded like an art historian as she took us around.

There is so much to see that I didn’t bother to take notes, and pictures can’t do it justice. We were shown Greek and Roman sculptures and the differences between them. The Greek always showed ideal people, often gods. The Roman had more realistic faces and the people were usually clothed although the Gods were not. The guide showed us the sculptures that were the inspiration for a lot of Michelangelo’s work.

Her explanation of the Greek statues was fascinating. Some had been bronze and copied by the Romans in marble so were original copies. Also experts can now find traces of minerals that showed marble statues were originally coloured, something Michelangelo would not have believed .

We went outside a couple of times to see sculptures including a new one that represented the Earth and the people on Earth. Later we went through a gallery of modern art which didn’t really get the attention it deserves. John did spot a Rodin though (the thinking man with his chin resting on his hand).

I didn’t really have memories of the sculptures, possibly because we didn’t have a guide last visit to point out the differences and influences. I did remember the Tapestry Gallery but the guide pointed out the multiple perspective used in their production which made the faces seem to turn and follow us. She said this was true of the Brussels Tapestries which lined one wall. The map gallery had more impact when she referred to the history of the maps as well.

Last visit we were just overawed by the Raphael rooms. I think I did know that Raphael had not painted all the scenes but it was clear now as the guide had shown us features of his work. They usually had a lot of colour and we could see the influence of Michelangelo in the later works. We had been told that Raphael worked with others but Michelangelo was very solitary – so Raphael had snuck in to see Michelangelo’s work in progress in the Sistine chapel while he was working on the Pope’s apartment. We were also shown his self portrait in many of his works. Part of the rooms had been painted by his former teacher who had had the commission to paint the rooms . The then Pope was shown Raphael’s work and sacked the teacher and hired the student, although the work already done was kept. Rapheal died young and before he could complete all the rooms so the last part was done by his pupils following his plans.

The Sistine Chapel did suffer from the crowds. In spite of the attendants reminding people, it was not silent. There were too many people who thought the comment meant everyone else not them. I did get the chance to look at the side panels and also see a few of the special features the guide had pointed out. I found the martyr saint who had been skinned alive and is shown with this skin attached to his foot.

We had been told the Basilica was closing early so joined the crowds here next. Bits inside were blocked off so it was a real squeeze. We saw some of the art work and the dome from below, then left. We were all getting hungry and the crowds were oppressive. Outside there were a lot of chairs being put out but no indication of when things were starting.

We had lunch on the way to the Metro, and couldn’t eat it all in spite of our small breakfast. Then we caught the Metro back to the BnB. At this stage it was 1.45pm and I was interested in a tour (‘Catacombs and Crypts’) at 2.30pm but hadn’t booked as I didn’t want us to be rushed. When I got through to the company I was told to be at Piazza Barbarini by about 2 .15pm, find the guide and get him to ring the office. John doubted that I would make it in 20 minutes but I knew the underground entrance at Termini by now and the Metro stop I needed. Half way there I realised I didn’t have anything warm to wear but when I found the guide he was in shirtsleeves anyway. There was a hold up for the bus and we didn’t leave until 2.40pm so I had heaps of time in the end.


The party of about 40 was split into 2 groups – all on the same bus, but 2 guides. Our guide was Massimo and he was both passionate and respectful of the sites. It was emphasised that we were going to holy sites and no photos were allowed. Our first stop was the catacombs of San Callisto so I left my camera in the bus, only to find I could have taken photos outside. These are the largest catacombs in Rome and like all the others were originally outside the city. The guide told us that in the early days of the catacombs, Christianity was illegal and so people found in them, especially if they were having a service, would be killed. Later Christianity was accepted and finally it was the official religion. These catacombs dated from the AD150 to the 5th century so overlapped these times. The site occupies 15 hectares and is almost 20 km long.We went first to the most important chamber, where 9 of the early Popes (including numbers 20 and 21) were buried. Pope Sixtus II was killed in the chamber while he was holding a service and he had a bigger tomb . The more usual tombs were holes in the wall where the body would be placed, wrapped in a white cloth. These were then sealed with either a marble slab or a terracotta slab. There were a lot of small tombs on the corners for babies – the mortality rate for babies being 50% at the time. The adults often died in their 40’s of lead poisoning, although the cause was not recognised at the time of course.

St Cecelia was also buried here and a replica statue of her is in her old tomb. There is a mark around her neck, indicating her decapitation.

There were also the equivalent of family tombs, usually in a side space and decorated. Some still had the remains of the decorations showing. There was ‘pictures’ of the Last Supper, as well as other symbols of Christianity. The guide had said often an anchor was shown as if you cover its bottom you have a cross. A fish, lamb or dove with an olive branch were also common. These had been used a lot when the religions was still illegal .

The Barbarians had found the catacombs and ransacked them in the 8th century; however, they didn’t find treasures because of the tradition of being buried like Christ so were just in a white cloth. Even the family tombs were basic. There were 2 more levels below which I gathered were more intact but we didn’t go down. We did go into one area where there were 2 decayed bodies in glass topped tombs which still had general human form.

There was a lot of banter between the guides when we were on the bus. It was clearly orchestrated and a bit over the top for me but most people seemed to enjoy it. They also pointed out significant features on the way, including the church near our BnB which is one of the few dedicated to a woman in Rome.

The next stop was at the Basilica of San Clemente, dedicated to a saint who was thrown into the Black Sea with an anchor on his leg. I went into the 12th century building and just looked at the mosaic at the front. The guide then pointed out the main features, with Christ on the cross in the middle, St Clemente with his anchor on the side next to St Peter who had an arm up reaching for God at the top. There were also 13 lambs at the bottom, the 12 apostles and Christ. Under them were representations of the apostles.

The ceiling had been redone at the order of a previous Pope . We were told that a major error was made then shown what this was. We went to the front of the church and were told to look again at the top of the mosaic. Could we see Christ on the cross… Yes. Could we see God at the top… well not his face. The new ceiling was lower and had chopped off the top of his head.

In the 18t century the local priest had heard running water so the area was excavated and a previous 4th century basilica found. It was bigger than the new one and had formed the foundations for it. It had been ransacked by the Barbarians and it is believed that it was silted up and unsafe so it was not renovated but the new basilica built on top. Over time all memory of the previous building was lost, so its discovery when looking for water was unexpected. This basilica had been made out of the home of a wealthy Roman.

After this was found the water could still be heard so excavations continued and the basement was found. We then went down another level to hear that there were the remains of a pagan temple, Mithraeum. The guide leaned on a replica of the god and told us the history. This god had been born on December 25, from an immaculate conception, had been crucified and resurrected!! Our guide then said when Christianity had become the official religion a number of pagan groups had been persuaded to convert by making the rituals not too different from the old rituals. This cult had even prayed kneeling with hands together while early Christians prayed with arms vertical and hands flat.

We finally were down 57 feet to find the pavement that was there in the first century AD. There had been a home here that was destroyed in the Great Fire of Rome in 64AD. The guide pointed out that Rome is like a lasagna and is in layers. Over time a combination of earthquakes and silting has lifted the street level considerably.

I nearly opted out of the final visit. We were told that we were going to see human bones used as decorations. We went to the Crypt of the Capuchin monks, This is an order more austere than Franciscans, who brought the bodies of previous members of the order with them when they moved to the city. The guide said they had owned nothing so when they died could only leave their bodies. The later members of the order used them to decorate the crypts and left their own bodies to be used also. I didn’t like it and would never go again but it was interesting and not morbid. The mystery is the preservation – the crypts don’t have any temperature control and the bones are not treated in any way but they are still intact.

On my return we had a 4 course meal at a slightly more upmarket restaurant and ended up talking to a young couple from Auckland. They heard us mention Nelson and the girl told us her father runs the Little Rock Cafe - which we know well and can even picture her father. This restaurant had a fish and a meat special menu with 4 courses so we ate more than we needed. We then went back to the BnB to sort out packing.