Highlight Amboise
We packed up and then went for a walk-through with Dave.
We
hadn’t left anything, but he said they like to check, as so many people have.
We had intended to be in Blois for 3pm but had a text
asking us to make it either 2.30pm or 4pm. So we changed plans and decided to
go to the chateau at Amboise on the way and arrive at 4pm. Then John spotted we
were going by Le Mans and wanted to drive past the track. Replanning on the way
had issues as 3 GPS’s gave different routes. We found later if we had put in
the Museum we would have been fine. But we did get there and had a drive past
because the area was full of no parking signs. We stopped in the next rest area
to eat our picnic lunch, and there was even a spare table for us in the nicely
set out area.
We got to Amboise, and sent a message to the airBNB people (Alain
and Fabienne) to say we would now arrive after 4pm.
John had a snooze in the car as he is still not really
caught up on sleep after all this time. Katherine and I headed for the chateau
and did a walk-through, but focused mainly on the grounds and views, both of
which we liked better than the chateau itself, probably because we are not that
au fait with French history,
We entered via a set of stairs and exited onto the terrace.
Here we went into the St Hubert Chapel and found a tour group about to start.
So we went to the various viewpoints to take photos, mainly of the Loire. We
saw the trench where the King had hit his head while playing ‘real’ tennis in
1498, and died within hours.
We went along the sentries walk, an upper gallery where the
guards could watch the boats on the river and the crossing area. The noble
guardsmen’s room came next, where the route to the Kings quarters were guarded.
The next area was the king’s dressing room. Most of the rooms were sparsely
decorated, following what we read was the pattern of the time. The court would
travel with their furniture, so the chateaux were basically empty when the Court
was not present. We read that King Francois travelled for over 8000 days of his
reign of 11778 days, and a later King had a Court of 10000 people.
The council chambers were large. During the Renaissance,
the King insisted that senior lords lived by his side for many months, so their
wives became part of the court and various festivities followed.
The next room mentioned the change in dining. Trestle
tables were replaced here with richly decorated extendable tables, but there
was only a slow acceptance of forks, however knives and spoons were popular.
The next area was the bedchamber of Kings and also occupied
by Catherine de Medici who even I had heard of. She was the power behind the
throne during the reign of her sons. It was also in this area that the painting
of the death of Leonardo D Vinci could be seen. It shows Leonardo at his death
with the King (Francois) in attendance, although he was not actually there at
the time.
Then there was a change of style with the use of much
bolder colours. We read in one room that the Duc d’Orleans inherited the
chateau from his mother and then bought 46 houses around it to demolish and
open up the area. I liked the music room here, with the harp and grand piano.
From the roof we had views of both the gardens and the
Loire. There was a room built here in 1843 and it is a shame it no longer exists.
We later went down the ramp which was built to allow horse and carriages to
reach the terrace from the town.
This appeared to be more than a little
ostentatious!!
We sort of wandered the gardens – our speed was a bit more
than a wander as we had to get back to the car within the time we had paid for
a ticket, but slow enough to appreciate them. The Naples Terrace is the lower
garden and was very formal. The other gardens had a lot of box hedging, oaks,
rosemary and jasmine.
We could not leave without seeing the bust of Leonardo de
Vinci, and then his tomb. His bust stands at the spot he was initially buried.
His tomb is in the St Hubert Chapel and his bones were transferred to here in
1871.
We stopped in the township so Katherine could take a photo
of the clock tower for me for a cache. We checked the time and headed back to
the car where John had had a short nap. We made our way to the airBNB with only
the name of the parking spot still needed. We did not receive the message
telling us the whereabouts of the parking area which is ‘closed off’ with a
strip of safety tape. However, our hostess was waiting nearby and blocked the
traffic on the one-way road so we could backup and get in. That was lucky as we
had spent the last few minutes on very, very, narrow roads with pedestrians
wandering about and people on bikes, so doing a round trip back would have been
a hassle.
Fabienne was lovely and had excellent English as she lived
in London for 24 years. She told us all the things we needed to know for the apartment
and the town, and emphasized that chateaux are usually unfurnished.
She also
gave us the chance to extend our checkout of 11pm, which was perfect for
getting Katherine to the station for 12.13pm on Wednesday.
We are 3 minutes from the chateau and even closer to a main
church. We are in the historic area, but on the less touristy side of the
chateau and it is peaceful but close to everything.
I then went for a walk to find out where the chateau
entrance was and then find a bit more of the town. I took the chance to do a
virtual cache and failed to find another as I couldn’t translate the hint
properly. I then returned to the apartment and joined the others in a quiet
time.
We had tried a few times to book in to the nearest
restaurant which is 1 minute away and had been recommended by Fabienne. It was
shut, and stayed shut, so we finally decided it was closed on Mondays. Instead
we walked for 5 minutes and went to a place that seemed busy enough to be good.
It was disappointing as the food was indifferent and a muck up with Johns meal
meant we think ours sat and was not hot when delivered. The desserts were
lovely though.
We wandered through the town in the evening air and saw a
few shops with shorts for John to possibly buy tomorrow.
2025-05-22