We had a great piece
of news which we needed to confirm while here. We had had a message from
Holland America asking us to open an email re some changes to find it looks
like we have been upgraded. We wanted to confirm our reading and were able to
log in and find we are definitely now in a veranda stateroom, having paid for a
standard stateroom. We had opted for the cheaper room as we felt the use we made
of a balcony would not be worth the cost, but as an upgrade we are delighted. I
also heard that my credit card replacement was due today so life is definitely
on the up.
The only
downside was we needed to reprint our boarding passes so we headed into the
Tourist Office to get advice about that, tours and travel passes. On the way we
decided to use the HOHO (Hop on/Hop Off) system here, although we have had
mixed feelings about them in the past. They have a deal for 72 hours instead of
24 and a boat trip was part of the cost. An easy day seemed a good way to keep
our strength up.
The first bus
was full but we soon got to the top level and did a full circuit.
It was a good
orientation and we had some ideas about places to get off. We were given the
usual information about the city. The focus seemed to be on the number of bikes
(5 for every 4 people), the fondness for coffee (third in the world) and the
liking for hotodgs so that it was almost the national dish.
We enjoyed most
of the views although there was one part which was a construction site. As
usual, it was hard to take photos but we did get some. It had been suggested to
us we could use a bus to get to the cruise ship but we quickly decided it was
not a sensible idea as the route would be long and the buses not set up for
luggage. We did get as far as the cruise port though and the harbour did like
very attractive.
We first went
past the colourful Tivoli Gardens and later got more views of the rides. The
City Hall and the sculpture museum followed before the construction site. We
then drove thought Christianshavn which is an alternative area where cannabis
is or was (it was not clear which) sold openly but no hard drugs. The people in
the community had built their own homes in the main. A few people got off the
bus here. We had had a number of glimpses of the Church of Our Saviour and its
interesting serpentine steeple, which people have climbed since it opened in
1752. The view from the top is meant to
be the best in Copenhagen. I was interested until I read that the last 150
steps are not for those with vertigo. I don’t quite have that but enough to put
me right off.
We saw
Christiansburg Palace at the next stop, which was also by the Canal where the
boat tours left. A number got off here but we decided to wait until later in
the day. Nyhavn, the former fishing area was next (more tomorrow) then the Amalienborg stop for those who wanted
to see the royal residence. It
consists of four identical classical palace façades with rococo interiors
around an octagonal courtyard, because, we were told, the original palace
burned down and the royal family bought up 4 existing mansions belonging to
noble families to form the palace. This was all in1794. The palace includes a
museum and is open for visitors.
We had 2 more
stops (more detail tomorrow) before the stop with the Little Mermaid. The
crowds told us where she was. We then went around the cruise port area to
admire the harbour and shopping, then back around a few parks. The Kings
Gardens and Botanical Gardens are popular with locals wanting a green space to
visit all year round. There is a smaller park, Orsteds Park, which is near our
place and we were to walk through there in the evening. We then went back to
the centre as the 1.5 hour round trip finished. There are other lines but they
were of no interest to us.
By then we were
ready for food but more particularly a drink. We should have been warned and
bought extra water, but were side-tracked by looking for hair colour. The woman
warned me that the colour I wanted had a risk of my hair becoming green – so
that idea was shelved.
Back on the
bus, we got off at the boat trip stop, only to find it was a very full boat
already. So we walked along the canal to fill in time and found a Czech couple
looking for a cache. We found it and had a chat with them, while also admiring
the reason for the cache. Under the water is a sculpture, although none of us
were sure why. I did some research later and found that it was Agnete and the
Mermen. It was a group of bronze
sculptures. They portray a merman and his seven sons with outstretched arms, begging
Agnete (his wife and the mother of the sons) to return home. It has been referred to as one of the
least-known works of art in Copenhagen and we understand why. It was completely
underwater when we saw it but is not always fully submerged I read.
The canal trip was really better in many ways than the bus
trip as we could see more and take photos as the boat moved more slowly. Very
slowly in a couple of places where it was not much lower or wider than the
bridge we were going under. There is always one – the person who was smoking
was the one who put his hands on the side of the bridge after the instructions
were very clear to keep your hands inside the boat.
The guide told him off,
which I was pleased about.
We sat opposite a couple from Gibraltar, Glenda and Mario,
and soon discovered they are going on exactly the same cruise as us. They were
very pleasant and it would be nice to meet them again on board but we still
feel the odds are against it.
We went through the canals, past a number of new apartments
built in previously unfashionable areas. Lots of people were swimming in the
canals. We had been told that this is popular but the authorities need to
determine daily if the water conditions are acceptable.
We saw the Black Diamond from a few angles. It is the new
library and its shiny black facets mirror the sea and give a diamond shape
effect. People are also very proud of the new Opera House, on an island in the
city in an old Dock area. It was donated by the cofounder of Maersk who had
some say in the design and apparently did a lot of research. He wanted it to
last and insisted the glass front also had steel in it. The foyer is designed
for comfort with wall space for people to lean against.
It certainly looked
lovely from the canals. The roof is cantilevered and people dive off it as part
of a Red Bull competition.
We went around a naval area and saw the Danish frigate which
they mentioned was famed for an unfortunate oops (accidentally firing a missile
at a passenger aircraft from memory) which John recalled. The trip obviously
included the Little Mermaid, but attention was also on a nearby seaplane that was
about to take off.
Back ashore and John was struggling as we had stupidly gone
out without water. We found a stall selling drinks and made our way home. He
was feeling better so we stopped to buy deli food for tea before he had a
snooze and I typed.
Our host knocked on the door with mail for us….my replacement
credit card had arrived. The only issue was going to be getting a pin on it as
we can’t access netsafe as it is linked to my old SIM card. We sent an email to
the bank and we left it to see what they advised.
After tea we had a lovely time wandering up the canal and
over the Dronning Louises Bridge.
It was built from1885 to 1887 and named for Queen
Loiuse. Queen Louise's Bridge is built of granite and has three arches. The
cast iron railings are decorated by four identical bronzes showing Copenhagen's
coat of arms surrounded by weapons, helmets and lions.
We enjoyed watching the people sailing in boats shaped like geese
and even considered joining them. We then continued to wander in Orsteds Park. This
is one in a
series of parks which were laid out on the grounds of the old fortification ring after it was decommissioned in the 1870s. The park still
retains elements from the old fortifications. A section of the moat now serves
as a lake and former bastions appear in the landscape as small hills. It was only spoiled by the bands of midges that sometimes
appeared. We then returned as it was getting dark and it was time to blob out
then sleep.
2025-05-22