Happy Days in Vancouver

Thursday, March 14, 2024
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
DAY 1 - A RELAXED BEGINNING
Orientation Tour of Vancouver
We had deliberately not organised anything for our two days in Vancouver. And although there were numerous short tours we could have considered, we decided to just "wing it". Following our 2023 travels, we were acutely conscious of over-filling our days with "feel-we-have-to-do-activities", and were adamant that enjoying a couple of relaxing days in this well-regarded city was all we needed.
Blue Horizon Hotel staff was more than helpful. Enthusiastically, they told us that our best option for orientation in the city was to take a "hop-on, hop-off" bus trip. Run by Gray Line West Coast Sightseeing, for CAD 65 per head, a 24-hour pass allowed travellers to tailor-make their tour of Vancouver via a number of designated stops in key attraction areas.* 
"Oh, you just MUST visit Granville Island!" enthused our friendly hotel staff. They were a little less definitive when we asked what the attraction was. "It's just great! There are markets, theatres, buskers - and the place is simply ALIVE!" A travel agent who was escorting two hotel guests on a day trip of the city, overhearing our conversations, also agreed. We stiffened but said nothing. Granville Island did not sound at all like us…..   
But there was no doubt that the rest of the bus route looked fine and a self-made tour suited us perfectly. And although Granville Island reeked of an overly touristy venue, we thought it might as well be our first stop on our bus tour of Vancouver - and on our first day in Canada. 
*It is worth noting that in the winter season, entry to some attractions in Vancouver is limited, and some are closed. The tour bus transport is far less flexible - and, for that matter, far less glamorous. For example, in the winter low season, the hop-on, hop-off sightseeing buses operate between 10:00 am and 3:30 pm, with pick-ups every 60 minutes, whereas in summer, the hours are extended from 8:45 am to 5:10 pm, with pick-ups every 20 minutes. The famous Vancouver Butchard Gardens were closed when we visited in March. And Dr Sun Yat-Sen's Garden was only open on certain days. 
WELCOME TO CANADA! WELCOME TO VANCOUVER!
A Pleasant Meeting with the People of Vancouver
Although we had been in Vancouver for only one day, we were overwhelmed by the friendliness and helpfulness of the local people. From the time we first put foot in Canada, everyone we met - from airport officials to people we met by chance while walking in the street - were amicable and helpful, yet quietly courteous. 
Our taxi driver who took us from Vancouver Airport to our hotel was a delightful man. Aware of our comments about the rainy conditions when we arrived, he explained that it nearly always rained in Vancouver in March. Looking up an online weather report, he told us, "I'm just reading that the weather will be clear and warm for the rest of the week. You guys will have a fine time!" Although it looked distinctly like it would storm any minute, his comments were music to our ears. And as it turned out, he was right....
Similarly, the staff at our hotel could not have been more obliging, and it was bliss to have our room made up and ready for us when we arrived to check in at the very early hour of 8:00 am. Although it was a three-star hotel, we could not have asked for more in terms of location, quality, comfort and service. As mentioned, the kind caretaker even offered to fix our hairdryer. Which was very successful!
If we were walking along a road and stopped to look as if we may want to cross to the other side, and even if there were no marked crossings, cars would automatically stop and beckon us across. This happened throughout our travels in Canada. We smiled, thinking about what might have happened if we had tried this in Australia... 
And at our afternoon drinks and evening meal at Earls, the staff went out of their way to chat with us. "Where are you from? Where are you going? What? Tuktoyaktuk and Resolute? Even Canadians never venture there!! And you usually travel to Russia? God, you guys are crazy....! Ahh... Double gins and tonic, is it?" We laughed. Assuming we wanted (or needed) double gins and tonic became normal.  We were never quite sure whether the waiters were being kind or, more to the point, whether we looked like desperados. The final blow was after our meal when we were asked if we were "together" or would like to pay separately. It was probably a very good question. But we had never been asked before...
A BRIEF GLIMPSE OF CANADA:  SOME INTERESTING INSIGHTS 
Demographics and Social Issues 
Everyone knows of the much-documented yet often anecdotal similarities between Canada and our home country of Australia: most commonly, the friendliness and openness of the local people. And that certainly is true. From our experience, however, and especially in the far north, the Canadians we met appeared more genuinely welcoming and genial than us Australians. Let's face it: we can be overly self-congratulatory for being a generous, and tolerant nation - especially to foreigners.**
**An interesting example is an occasion when we asked a Russian friend why the local people we met in Russia never smiled when we greeted them (inference: like we do); she replied curtly, "Well, why would we smile? We don't even know you. Do you smile when greeting Russian people because you think we are funny or stupid? No, when Russian people get to know you, they are very friendly; the difference is that they genuinely mean it and will gladly welcome you to their homes. You Australians always smile and are friendly when you first meet people, but it's superficial, and you would rarely ask them to your homes". 
Olga's comments stopped us in our tracks. Ashamedly, we had to agree that she was probably quite right. And that is why experiencing different cultures is so very interesting.... And sometimes even more so, by being forced to confront and scrutinise our behaviours. Unlike what politicians and the media continually feed us - perhaps we Australians may not be the World's Best At Everything....?  
Canada, like Australia, is huge. It is the second largest country in the world in terms of land mass, following the Russian Federation. Canada comprises a total land area of 9,984,670 square km. Australia the sixth largest country, covers a land area of 7,692,024 square km. 
Canada has a very small but highly city-centric population of just 40 million, only 0.5% of the world's population. Similarly, Australia has a relatively small population of 26 million, just 0.3% of the world's population.
Both Canada and Australia were settled by the British, and Canada, also by the French. Both countries experienced significant early migration and growth due to significant gold rushes in the mid (Australia) to late (Canada) 19th Century. 
Today, both Canada and Australia are highly multicultural countries. Canada, like Australia, has one of the highest rates of immigrants per population in any country in the world. In Canada, 22% of the population was born overseas, whereas the figure for overseas-born people in Australia is 31%.
Similarly, both countries have significant indigenous populations. In Canada, some 5% identify themselves as indigenous*** whereas there are 3.8% in Australia. Both countries' indigenous people have experienced horrific forced relocation and child removal. They experience similar social issues such as marginalisation and racism, traditional language erosion, poorer health, low life expectancy, alcohol and substance abuse, and lower levels of literacy. As in Australia, the Canadian government has made significant efforts to overcome these issues. From our limited experience, they appear to be very proactive and manage the situation well.
***The three main indigenous groups in Canada are First Nations (formerly known as “Indians”), Inuit (formerly known as “Eskimos”) and Métis (an identified distinct race with both First Nations and European heritage).
Canada has the longest littoral coastline in the world, 202,080 km (Australia's coastline is 25,760 km), and adjoining the USA, it has the longest international land border of 8,891 km. The country is also home to a staggering 52,455 islands. To gain an appreciation of the relative size of Canada and its islands, Baffin Island in Nunavut territory is nearly twice the size of the UK.
Adding to its astonishing statistics, Canada possesses at least two million lakes, more than 14% of the total lakes in the world. They include Canada's two largest fully contained lakes, Great Bear Lake and Great Slave Lake. Both located in the Northwest Territories, they cover 31,328 square km and 28,568 square km respectively.
Heritage Similarities
Bizarre as it may seem today, both countries are shared members of the British Commonwealth, each having King Charles as the Head of State. Both countries are constitutional monarchies - a form of monarchy in which the monarch exercises authority in accordance with a constitution and is not alone in making decisions.
However, Canada also has a significant French-speaking heritage, with some 7 million French Canadians. Both English and French are formally recognised Canadian languages. Inuit language is also widely used in communications and signage.
Economic Comparisons
A highly developed country, Canada, like Australia, has a high nominal per capita income globally, and its advanced economy ranks amongst the highest in the world. Today, the International Monetary Fund (IMF) ranks Canada's economy as the 12th largest in the world in terms of GDP, followed by Australia at 13th place. Both countries are chiefly commodity producers and technology importers.
Both are open economies favouring free trade with strong economic ties to the USA and the rest of the world. Both are economically reliant on mining.
While the combined impact of manufacturing, mining and agriculture is remarkably similar for both (21.8% for Canada and 21.5% for Australia), Canada is more reliant on manufacturing, and Australia is more reliant on mining.
DAY TOUR ON THE HOP-ON, HOP-OFF BUS
For Better or For Worse...
For better or for worse, we opted to purchase hop-on, hop-off bus passes from the hotel. And soon we were making our way to our first stop of Granville Island on the south-western side of Vancouver Harbour. Our bus was well.....not quite as glamorous and comfortable as shown in the advertising. Just a normal urban bus, there was nothing plush about our transport or journey. Our driver however, was pleasant and obliging, pointing out a few of the historical sites and main attractions of the city. 
From what we saw from our bus journey, our hotel was as advertised, beautifully located right on the famous Robson Street, the centre of town and within walking distance of restaurants, shopping malls, supermarkets, Vancouver Harbour and the well-known Stanley Park. 
On a cool but sunny morning, our bus ride was a very useful orientation and a valuable framework for a walking trip around Vancouver for the following day. Interestingly, the weather was relatively warm for the time of year - around 5 C and no sign of snow anywhere. For some reason, we assumed that just out of a Canadian winter, most places would be snow-covered...
A Visit to Granville Island. 
Granville Island is actually a peninsula (the Burrard Peninsula) located just across False Creek inlet and opposite Downtown Vancouver. Formerly an industrial and manufacturing area, it is now a key tourist attraction comprising a marina, a hotel, markets, restaurants, artists' studios and workshops, performing arts theatres and the False Creek Community Centre. 
Granville Island was relatively devoid of people. In fact, it was devoid of anything. Perhaps because it was the low winter season, but we could barely find any shops that were open - or anything much at all. 
The market was sort of interesting - that is if you lived in Vancouver and required food for cooking. Comprising mostly fish, meat and fresh produce outlets, it was easily looked through in a matter of minutes. One saving grace of something to do was that we realised we had forgotten to bring caps or sun hats with us. And a visit to a friendly souvenir shop solved the problem.
So, what to do now? Our bus would not pick us up for another hour, so we decided to head to a restaurant. The Sand Bar Restaurant was very lively, and the food looked great. Huge platters of fresh lobsters, crabs and mussels, plates of seafood linguine and steaming bowls of clam chowder looked delicious. Overlooking the lovely yacht-filled harbour and enjoying a gin and tonic was a very pleasant way to spend some time away and think about our coming travels in Canada.
Glimpses of Vancouver City...
From the little we had seen of Vancouver, it certainly was a very attractive city. Located right on the waterside of English Bay and Vancouver Harbour, the graceful inner city architecture is framed by a stunning backdrop of snow-covered mountains, a natural showpiece for one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
The third-largest metropolitan area in Canada, Greater Vancouver houses a population of over 3 million. And being one of Canada's most ethnically and linguistically diverse populations, just under 50% of its residents do not have English or French as their first languages.
The city takes its name from George Vancouver, who explored the inner harbour of Burrard Inlet in 1792 and gave many places English names. In fact, I was surprised to note just how Anglicised the various names were. I mused - it was in fact, very similar to Australia. 
Interestingly, Vancouver is one of Canada's mildest and most temperate cities, being classified as Oceanic and bordering on a Warm-Summer Mediterranean climate. Summers are dry whereas most days in November through to March are wet. Hence, Vancouver is often referred to as the wettest city in Canada. We were visiting in March. And we were very lucky...
The vegetation in Vancouver was originally temperate rainforest, consisting of conifers, pockets of maple and alder, and vast areas of swampland. In Vancouver's early days, logging was one of the most important industries. 
In 2023, Vancouver ranked as the most "livable city" in northern America and 5th in the world (the highest ranking was Vienna, followed by Copenhagen, Melbourne, then Sydney). There was certainly a strong feeling of prosperity and optimism in this fine city.
Bus Tour of the City - Central and North-East Vancouver
One thing you have to watch with the hop-on, hop-off tour is that the bus can be a bit early or for that matter, late for its scheduled pick-ups. And if there are no passengers queuing, the bus may leave before its scheduled time. Our bus departing from Granville Island was leaving early when we sighted it. Thankfully, I could still run relatively fast and was able - if rather breathlessly - to hold the driver up until Alan arrived. Furthermore, the drop-off and pick-up points are poorly marked and are quite difficult to find.
Our simple tour around the central district of Vancouver suited us perfectly. We were late starting and feeling like a relaxed day after our long flight, we decided not to visit museums or the Vancouver Look Out - all of which had been highly recommended by friends. Furthermore, the Sun Yet-San garden, in which we were interested, was closed.
We did however, stop at the famous Gastown Steam Clock - and shamefully, only because the bus changed drivers and they asked us if we wanted to wander around for ten minutes. Feeling drowsy, I did manage to take a mandatory photo of this bizarre monument. Built in 1977, this antique-style clock is powered by steam & whistles to tell the time. 
Below is a Google review of the Gastown area which may explain why we were not falling over ourselves to stop there for any time. Not surprisingly, "trendy, chic, hip and edgy" are not words that resonate with our sort of travels!
"Lively Gastown is known for its whistling Steam Clock and mix of souvenir shops, Indie art galleries and decor stores in Victorian buildings. A trendy food and drink scene includes chic cocktail lounges and restaurants serving everything from gourmet sandwiches to local seafood. Hip eateries also dot the neighbouring Downtown Eastside area, while the up-and-coming Railtown district is home to edgy fashion studios." 
Gastown, I had assumed, was so-called because it had some historical significance relating to Vancouver's power supplies. Not so. Gastown was the site of the original settlement that became the centre of Vancouver, and today is designated as a National Historical Site. It is signified by the rather odd steam-driven clock not far from Chinatown. This is the site of former Yorkshire seaman "Gassy" Jack Deighton's saloon, which was built in 1857, the first in Vancouver. The nickname "gassy", in fact, referred to Deighton's habit of talking - or gassing/gasbagging - at great length rather than reference to a possible flatulence problem. 
Our Final Visit for the Day - Stanley Park
Before our travels, a friend told me about his visit to Vancouver. On a business trip and his first trip to the city, Jim still spoke glowingly about his experience in Vancouver. And apart from what he described as a truly beautiful city, one of his fondest memories was a long walk through the famous Stanley Park. "Even if you go nowhere else in the city, you cannot miss Stanley Park" he enthused.
We were also recommended a visit to Stanley Park the evening before by our waiter at Earls Restaurant. "Just be careful, though. The park is some 400 hectares, and the 10 km walk around the main trail can take 2-3 hours. It is easy to get lost, and it can be a very long hike back to the city".....
Stanley Park entrance was one of the last of our hop-on, hop-off, drop-off points for the day before the bus circumnavigated the park and returned to its final stops in the central city area.
Alan decided to stay on the bus, but I was determined to attempt at least a short walk in what we had read was a really lovely rainforest setting. Being notorious for getting lost, Alan thought I was mad to even contemplate a walk alone. Looking up at a now heavily clouded and volatile wintery sky, I started to think the same. And I didn't have an umbrella or a rain jacket with me. 
For better or for worse, I took the risk. As the bus departed, Alan called out to me "Now don't get lost!" The driver, bless him, also called out loudly, "Don't forget, there are no more buses after this one!" Thanks for the vote of confidence, I thought... Feeling acutely anxious, I made my way toward the Aquarium. Which had closed for the day...
Increasingly steely, ominous clouds didn't help my confidence, nor did the now-becoming-rather-dreary-rainforest. A lot of timber had died, some from sheer old age and others apparently from horrendous storms back in 2006. 
Looking at my map, I decided to make a short trip past the Aquarium and along the sea wall, which provided good views of Vancouver city skyline and a chance to observe some different vegetation and perhaps even some of the wildlife. Walking further west, I should then be able to see the Inuit totem poles for which the park is famous. My walk, I estimated, would take me an hour or so before I needed to head back to our hotel, about another 1.5 km walk.
As I headed along the sea walk, there was no doubt that Stanley Park was rather lovely with the combined beauty of the forest, the sea wall and seaside, and the mountains of North Vancouver. Massive ancient fir trees, some hundreds of years old and as tall as 76 metres, dominated the cool rainforest. Native species to the area included Western Hemlock, Western Red Cedar and Douglas Fir. Planted species included Sitka Spruce, the Grand Fir and herbaceous plants such as Rhododendrons, Azaleas and various fern species. Luxuriant mosses draped from moist forest growth. Flamboyant lichen-coated rocks along my path. Giant long-dead logs lay like extraordinarily contorted driftwood.
There were very few people out and about; just a few families and some individual cyclists and joggers. Although many of the trees were deciduous and, in the heavily overcast conditions, looked a little sad, the forest exuded a very lovely calmness and a magical sense of seclusion.
My loop walk took me just over an hour. I didn't get lost in the park, but I was not confident about finding my way back to the hotel. Even Google Maps cannot help me cope with the panic of being completely lost. 
End of a Happy Day 
At sunset, I arrived back at our hotel. I had thoroughly enjoyed my walk. And to my surprise, Alan had enjoyed his bus tour around Stanley Park. Being the sole last passenger, the driver had taken him on an extended drive of the park. I was sorry I missed out on the full tour but I was more than happy to have been walking and discovering the park's secret gems on foot. And although it became very cold during the latter part of the day, by a miracle it hadn't rained....
We dined again at Earls where we had, of course, the famous clam chowder. Back at the hotel, I bought the Earls Restaurant Cookbook online... Now, where would I find those tinned clams back home in Australia?
DAY 3 - WELL, WE REALY DID INTEND TO UNDERTAKE A WALK OF THE CITY.....
A SIM Card Mission That Didn't Happen
Our mission for day two of our stay in Vancouver was to head for the Central Shopping Mall to purchase another SIM Card for our phone.
Prior to our travels, I had bought a Canadian SIM Card for about USD 70.00 from the SIM Corner company. Using the well-known Rogers communication platform, it was supposed to provide us with coverage right across Canada. When I inquired about coverage in remote parts of the Northwestern Territories and Nunavut, the company sent me a map with the notation that although the card provided coverage, some more remote parts of Nunavut had "limited functionality". Whatever that meant, it didn't sound promising..... And, after all, all of Nunavut is remote... For some reason, I still went ahead with my purchase. SIM Corner's service had been efficient and honest. Purchasing this SIM card was totally my responsibility.
Just before our travels, I contacted a travel provider in Arctic Bay, Nunavut who told me the only reliable telecommunications service in the territory was through the Bell telecommunications company. 
We were in luck in Vancouver. There were Bell shops quite close to our hotel. But for some reason, we were ridiculously apathetic about buying another SIM card. "Oh, it will work. And anyway, why would we need a phone when we have the Internet?" we told ourselves. For two pathetically non-tech people, a walk around the city sounded much more appealing than shopping for SIM cards, about which we knew nothing. We would worry about it later in the day... But we didn't.
"Oh, I Just Love Those Gold Down Jackets!" OR a Shameful Day's Shopping in Vancouver...
Our walk took us downtown to the main shopping area of Vancouver. Ridiculously overpacked for our Arctic travels with our cold weather gear, we certainly did not want to, nor could we, purchase anything more. Even gift buying was out of the question.
Of course, the inevitable happened. Out of the blue, I heard Alan exclaim, "Oh, there's a North Face Store. Let's have a just a quick look....". For a decidedly "non-outdoorsy" sort of person, it's extraordinary to contemplate that having Alan in a cold-weather sporting shop is a recipe for spending a lot of time. And a lot of money. He is truly diabolical. And of course, I am equally as bad.  
We were in fact, a bit concerned about Alan's clothing. His overcoat was not the highest quality down, and seeing the shop was promoting its Very Special March Sales, we decided to look at some down jackets for him. Bad move...
When we walked into the store, the first thing we noticed was a line of very plush, super high-quality, gold-coloured down jackets. Of astronaut proportions, the North Face Summit Series 900 fill-down jackets were the shop's finest quality, and even though they were on sale at half price, the cost was eye-watering.  
After trying on many jackets, Alan finally succumbed to trying on one of the Summit Series jackets we had first noticed. It fitted him perfectly. It was sufficiently long in the arms and body, had an insulated well, fitted hood and something vital but not often thought about - it had a very strong and easy-to-connect-and-pull zipper. Of course, and most importantly at 900 fill, it was the highest quality down you can buy. Google describes it this way: "900 fill down is the highest quality down commercially available and considered the absolute gold standard of insulation—with an unmatched warmth-to-weight ratio, it is highly compressible, ultralight and amazingly warm". After trying these out in the extreme Arctic, we can verify that the description is absolutely accurate. 
Pleased for Alan, I was also undeniably jealous! This type of jacket came in women's sizes, but the only colour was sickly grey-green. And I hate green... Our very obliging shop attendant then suggested trying on a Small Men's Size in the gold range. At the end of the sale, stock was limited, but to my relief, she found one that fitted me perfectly. I was delighted.
Proceeding to the check-out, reality set in. Apart from the cost, we would now carry three down jackets each! And to be scrupulously honest (which I never am), my quality Under Armour 700 fill-down oversized overcoat was perfectly fine, even for extreme Arctic conditions... But greed took over, and as Alan often tells me, decisions always come easy for those whose self-interest is at stake..... It was true. Overhearing our comments, the attendant assured us that the coats, which only weighed half a kilo each, would fit into a bag the size of a handkerchief. They did, but it wasn't a job you'd like to do more than once....
Armed with our bundles of bulging yellow jackets, we decided to cut out any more shopping and head back to our hotel. After all, they were so bulky, we couldn't carry any more if we tried. And so, in our greed and excitement, the SIM card purchase somehow got overlooked.....
Back at the hotel, we couldn't wait to try on our new purchases. Undoubtedly, they fitted perfectly and were unbelievably light and warm. And beautiful. But funnily enough, Alan's coat seemed to have a life of its own. And it still has. After compressing the jacket to carry it or trying to squash it in his bag somehow, when the coat is "released", it just continues to expand. And even back at home when we take it out to show people, it visibly keeps expanding as we watch it! My coat is better behaved. But still beautifully warm.  
Note: After our travels to the extreme Canadian Arctic at temperatures of around minus 40 °C, we can happily verify that these jackets are exactly as advertised. At no time, and even snowmobiling for 60 km in these temperatures, our bodies never became the slightest bit cold. Furthermore, they were wonderfully comfortable, easy to take on and off and very lightweight. And even if Alan's continues to have a mind of its own, both purchases were well worth the money.
AN EVENING AT JOE FORTES RESTAURANT
We had loved dining at Earls, but it was time to try another venue for our last evening in Vancouver. We had heard that Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop Restaurant was rated as one of the best seafood restaurants in Vancouver. Furthermore, it was just a few minutes' walk from our hotel. A review went as follows - thankfully, there being no reference to adjectives such as "chic, edgy, hip or trendy". "Buzz?" Well, that was a bit of a worry....
"For over 35 years, Joe Fortes has consistently earned and maintained its reputation as an award-winning Vancouver restaurant. Guests worldwide have come to expect a dynamic culinary experience in this San Francisco styled seafood grill that always delivers more – more hospitality, variety and buzz. This iconic Vancouver restaurant is conveniently located just off of bustling Robson Street. Joe Fortes is where locals and visitors alike come to enjoy the best food in town, complemented by an award-winning wine list that boasts over 300 wines, and a uniquely personal level of service and hospitality...."
To our surprise, there were no vacancies for the restaurant that evening. The waitress answering the phone sounded rattled; barely being able to be heard over a rabble of background noise. Finally, she returned to the phone, saying they had just received a late cancellation for 7:00 pm. There were no ifs or buts about the timing. Obviously, we were extraordinarily lucky to book a table.....
Joe Fortes was an absolute experience. On entering, the restaurant was simply booming with lively, happy, laughing, eating and drinking patrons. The place was absolutely packed, and the noise level was unbelievable. No wonder they were booked out. There was not a spare table to be seen. We had to admit that the atmosphere was "BUZZING"! And it was great fun. Here is a video of the restaurant that evening: https://youtu.be/DGWROoy-26o
The reviews for the restaurant were spot on. The service was immaculate, and the menu and food were excellent. Our delightful waiter, although flat out, did not hurry us at all. In fact, his service and timing were fantastic. We both opted for the Lobster Bisque, followed by grilled Arctic Char for our main meal. "Superb choice, madam and sir!" he commented, smiling broadly. And it was...
Note: The original Joseph Seraphim Fortes (1863-1922) after which the restaurant was named, was a British-Canadian and a prominent figure in the early history of Vancouver. He was the first official lifeguard for the city.
Despite earlier doubts, our stay in Vancouver had been enjoyable and a lot of fun. And for a change, everything had run smoothly. The city, its surroundings, people and service had been truly fantastic. The restaurants and the food were impressive, as was the standard of our hotel. Such a difference from our poor experiences in Europe and Scandinavia on our 2023 travels.
As we chatted about our stay over a late-night drink, I wondered what the rest of our travels would have in store for us. The next day we would fly north to Whitehorse in the Yukon, where we begin an eight-day minibus tour - our only tour - up the Dempster Ice Road Highway to the Inuit village of Tuktoyaktuk right on the Arctic Ocean. We would cross the Arctic Circle for something like our 18th time and once again, be at home in our beloved high Arctic again.
But what would being on a tour be like? Typically, I was overthinking yet again....
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