Day 6 - The B.I.G All Women's Expedition
There was much excitement at South Camp. A team of five women explorers had arrived in Resolute. As part of the B.I.G (Before it's Gone) Project, the women planned to travel from Resolute as close as they could to the Magnetic North Pole to collect scientific samples for research on the spread of microplastics and heavy metals that may contribute to Climate Change in the Arctic.
Like us, they were delayed with their flight because of the bad weather conditions. The team arrived with a colossal amount of gear, enough to fill the hotel's conference room. They planned to fly to Isaschen, a former Arctic weather station in the far reaches of the Canadian North that operated on Ellef Ringnes Island from 1948-1978.
With no guides, dogs, or vehicular assistance, they would travel by cross-country skis, using GPS to guide them. Their mission would involve dragging extraordinarily heavy sleds weighing up to 80 kg carrying food, tents and scientific equipment. At night, they were to camp out on the ice. Each was trained in using rifles for protection against polar bears. It was an enormously ambitious undertaking...
Time was running out for the team. And understandably, they were becoming very anxious about their flight north with Kenn Borek Air. The weather had cleared somewhat but was still extremely windy and cold. In Resolute, the temperature dropped to minus 35°C without wind chill!
Resolute has a tundra or polar climate. At a latitude of 74°43' N, winters are long and very cold, and summers are short and cool. And because of its proximity to the ocean, it does not have the buffering effects of mountains or land. The average high for summer is minus 12.7 C°, and the average lows of minus 18.6 °C.
We were concerned for these women, especially as two had head colds and looked sick. At temperatures that could drop to minus 50 °C, probable blizzard conditions and no on-ground support, it was a perilous journey. Furthermore, members of the team would have to take turns being outside the tent with a loaded rifle, on watch for polar bears all through the night.
Note: Kenn Borek Air is an airline based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. It operates regional passenger and cargo services, contracts in the Arctic and Antarctic, and aircraft leasing. The airline is well-known for rescuing explorers and adventurers in ultra-remote locations.
Walks, Talks & Time to Contemplate...
The next two days provided us with an opportunity - albeit rather an expensive one - to relax. I caught up with my blog notes, wrote to friends, and studied Russian while Alan read the Truth Commission Report on the 1950s Inuit relocations.
The weather had improved, and snow graders were clearing a lot of snow. The women's B.I.G team was still awaiting notification of their flight from Kenn Borek Air. The ATCO staff were visibly enthused about going home the following day. It was an exciting and busy atmosphere at South Camp.
There were plenty of people to chat with - ATCO staff, the B.I.G. team women and some hunting tourists staying at South Camp. Interesting people from all over the world.
We also realised that South Camp sold some very nice "Resolute" sweaters, t-shirts, and some of the old stand-by super-practical gifts-that-don't-weigh-anything fridge-magnets. After all, who else in our beachside village of Crowdy Head had been to Resolute?
Somehow, the days disappeared. I walked daily to various parts of the hamlet, even running into Chelsea who was picking up her children from school. I was feeling a bit like a local...
Actually, I was deliriously happy. Why certain places fill me with joy is beyond me. Alan is the same. And thankfully, we agree! They have ranged from the high Karakoram peaks of northern Pakistan, to the gorgeous ancient architecture of Uzbekistan, the Russian Arctic and now Resolute. The locations have no correlation, except I always feel happy in the Arctic.
On my walks, I had time to think about Russia and how desperate we both were to return. It was looking more unlikely than ever. But as Alan the Optimist often says, "You never know. Politics can change quickly". And irritatingly, he is often right...
Alan's philosophy and constant support kept me going with my Russian studies. It was a lot of effort and work. There were many times when I despaired that I would ever use it when he would come to the rescue with encouraging commentary such as "Well, you've put so much effort into your studies, you wouldn't want to lose it, would you?" That was true.
I had been taking private lessons via Skype with Russian teacher, Valeria, a lecturer from St Petersburg University. The final sentence to her correspondence was always, "We are waiting for you, dear Wendy. Becoming such firm friends with someone from another culture I had never met was a privilege.
I had postponed my formal lesson with Valeria until we came home from the Arctic. But it persistently worried me about the sense of keeping up my studies. I thought I might work out my priorities when we were away, but I could not decide. As so often happens, events took over for me...
My last walk in Resolute was around the perimeter of the hamlet. The scenery of sheer nothingness was stunning. On my own, I was really on the edge of nowhere. And I was happy. Happiness is tinged with a sadness that this would probably be the last walk I would ever make in Resolute. Here is my video: https://youtu.be/QVs7_KC6tiE
DAY 7 - LEAVING RESOLUTE
Sheldon texted us that morning. Makpa and Sheldon's mother, Daisy, would be working at their airport and would love to see us before we left. We were pleased. We were very fond of Sheldon and Makpa.
No one was clear about the time the flight to Yellowknife would depart. Chef Paul had the most accurate way of working it out. "As soon as the plane leaves Yellowknife, you have three hours to get to the airport", he advised. Paul, Dorothy and several ATCO staff we knew were catching the flight. All of us were staying at the Chateau Nova Hotel, so we organised to drink together in the bar that evening.
Dorothy drove us to the airport. It was a hairy trip. Winds were almost gale force. Sheets of snow swept in front of our sturdy big 4WD vehicle. I wondered if our flight might be cancelled. But we felt positive. Paul had told us that the women expeditioners had taken off to Isachsen that morning. We were delighted for them.
Our flight was late, but at least it arrived. There was great excitement as the ATCO staff departing met again with the incoming team. The camaraderie was impressive.
Aziz was there too in a working capacity, seeming to be organising just about everything. And we were able to thank him again and say goodbye. A wonderful man.
We had met with Makpa and Daisy too, and bid them a fond farewell as we left to board our flight.
Walking through the gale-force winds to the aircraft was challenging. We barely stood up as the bitter ice and wind blasted our faces. By the time we walked the short distance to the aircraft, we were all freezing. Goodness knows what the temperature was, but it must have been around minus 45 °C with wind chill. A video is at: https://youtu.be/-Zke-iWqA68
As our aircraft accelerated, it slewed dangerously sideways down the runway. The tarmac was just a white blur of blown snow. I looked down as we flew high over Resolute. What a wonderful experience it had been.
Our three-hour flight to Yellowknife was pleasant. And thankfully uneventful...
2025-02-13