LAST MORNING OF OUR TOUR
Journey Along the Mackenzie River Ice Road to Aklavik
Once again, the weather gods smiled upon us. We awoke to a sparkling, sunny morning; the combination of thick fondant snow, ice and vast blue skies made for a stunning vista as our minibus made its way through a sleepy Inuvik, heading down to the frozen Mackenzie River exit to Aklavik, our destination for the last day of our tour. A video of the entrance to the Aklavik Ice Road can be viewed at https://youtu.be/zibScdlm2kg.
Our impromptu side trip to Aklavik was a delightful surprise, a last-minute addition by Arctic Range Adventure when they couldn't secure our overnight accommodation at Tuktoyaktuk. It was a perfect fit for us. Initially, we were disappointed that it wasn't part of the original tour, as it seemed unusual to traverse thousands of kilometres of challenging terrain without visiting some of the related yet remote settlements around Inuvik. Formerly the administrative centre for the High Arctic of the Northwest Territories, Aklavik has an interesting history; often called the "Township That Refused to Die",...
A 10:00 am start suited everyone. After seven days of solid travel with early starts and few days to rest other than overnight stays, our team was beginning to tire. Leo, sensing the group's lethargy, tried his hardest to brighten - or perhaps more accurately - wake up our team. Were we enjoying it? Was everyone happy? No answer... Well, I know we all were, but active group participation was not a strong feature of our group. We were the same. We thoroughly dislike any form of contrived activities. And we "don’t do" quizzes…
Meanwhile, poor Leo chatted brightly about the history of Aklavik, including a story about a weirdo guy known as The Mad Trapper of Aklavik. We felt for him. Sometimes, it's a tough call being driver, tour guide and entertainer...
Wearily, Leo finally asked if we had any questions about our day trip to Aklavik. Remembering my embarrassing events the day before, I asked him whether there was provision for toilet stops on the way. "No", was the reply. I shrugged, assuming it was some form of joke. It wasn't.
The entrance to the Aklavik Ice Road was stunning. A beautiful, flat, newly graded road, it was, in fact, simply the frozen waters of the massive Mackenzie Delta River. It is always exciting to travel on ice roads, and this was no different - although perhaps less eventful - than our many Russian "zimnik" adventures. I must say that we now have a very sharp eye for any noticeable cracks in the road structure!
The Aklavik ice road would take us along the broad Mackenzie River until we reached the junction of the Peel River. From there, our journey would take us along the highly convoluted ice road to the triangular land formation home to the village of Aklavik. The 120 km trip would take us some two and a half hours - a long journey through the tundra with barely a tree in sight, nor it seemed, any place for a toilet stop...
I love Arctic winter mornings. So often, colours rapidly change from clear, bright blue skies contrasting against the abundance of fresh, fluorescent silver snow to gentler, soft pink or golden hues, where the land and sky merge almost seamlessly. That morning, a light mist rolled in across the river plains. A feeble sun barely glowed through a moody, opalescent sky. The sheer nothingness of our surroundings was compelling.
During our journey, we followed the Pederson and Thrasher Channels of the Mackenzie River. Of course, being frozen, it was impossible to know where we were or that we were even on a frozen river. But a summer map of the region reveals a massive lake-pocked hinterland with numerous tributaries flowing into the mighty Mackenzie Delta region. Why, I thought, would anyone settle in a location that was water-bound in summer, and subject to dangerous ice melts in spring and late winter?
What initially looked like an easy drive became treacherous, with the softly graded road giving way to large areas of blue ice. More like a skating rink than a road, it was surprising that our 2WD minibus coped as well as it did. On the other hand, with its gloriously crazed patterning and startling lapis blue colour, the ice was truly beautiful.
A Bit About the Hamlet of Aklavik. "Never Say Die..."
Aklavik (pronounced something like Ak-LAR-Vik) is a tiny remote hamlet on the Peel Channel western flank of the Mackenzie Delta and close to the Richardson Ranges. It is 120 km west of Inuvik and just 1.6 °N of the Arctic Circle.
The settlement endures a sub-Arctic climate with relatively mild summers and cold winters lasting most of the year. Average winter highs are often below zero. The permafrost environment is tundra - an Arctic desert.
The westernmost settlement of the Northwest Territories, Aklavik is inhabited by just 630 people. Perhaps not a selling point for tourism, its formidable name means "Barren Ground Grizzly Place". The economy of Aklavik remains much the same as it always was, with hunting, trapping and fishing being the main industries.
Today, Aklavik houses a school, three general stores (Aklavik General Store, Stanton and a Northern Store operated by the well-known North West Company), a health centre with four nurses, a Canada Post outlet, a lodge and an inn, three churches, two taxi companies and a Royal Canadian Mounted Police detachment. Like most northern communities, Aklavik has a community hall, a gymnasium and interestingly, a swimming pool.
The community is served year-round by air via the Aklavik Freddie Carmichael Airport*, the winter ice road, and in summer by float plane.
* Note: Freddie Carmichael was the first Indigenous commercial pilot in the Canadian High Arctic. Founder of multiple aviation companies and a highly respected leader and elder, he lives with his family in Inuvik.
The population is largely Inuvialuit, an Inuit and primarily Uumarmiut people. They are the descendants of the Nunamiut, Inupiat people who migrated from Alaska in the early 20th century. The majority of the other Indigenous people are Gwich'in and Metis. Both Inuvialuit and Gwich'in are official languages of the Northwest Territories.
Until the late 19th century, indigenous people used the resource-rich animal and sea life region surrounding Aklavik for hunting and trapping. It was also an important trade hub for the Gwich'in and Inuvialuit people.
Aklavik, as it is known today, began to develop in the early 1900s after the Hudson's Bay Company opened a trading post in 1912. Local trappers brought in their muskrat skins, and Invialuit trappers from as far away as Banks Island and Victoria travelled to Aklavik to trade their winter's catch of Arctic fox. Other furs traded were beaver and lynx.
Later, the Catholic Mission Church established a mission in the settlement. Located on the Peel River Channel, Aklavik became an important transportation and trade hub along the Mackenzie Delta waterways. For many years, Aklavik was the northern terminus for steamers and later aircraft that brought goods and people from the south.
By the early 1920s, Aklavik had become the administrative centre of the Canadian Western Arctic. During that time, the settlement became an important part of the Northwest Territories and Yukon Radio System. A pioneer system, it became critical in providing communications in Canada's North. The settlement remained an import hub for signal intelligence in the 1940s. In 1949, the Royal Canadian Navy established a signals intelligence station in Aklavik, which remained operational until 1961, when its operations moved to Inuvik.
For much of the early 20th century, Aklavik was a major centre of the Canadian Arctic. And its population rose to 1,600 people. The settlement, however, was prone to significant flooding with severe erosion along the riverbanks. As a result, the Northwest Territories administration recommended in 1958 that all residents and businesses be moved to a new modern northern town known as Inuvik.
Despite government intentions to close Aklavik, many in the community refused to leave their ancestral land and rallied to save the settlement.
In the 1960s, the principal of Aklavik's school, A J "Moose" Kerr, formed a committee to help save the community. The efforts were successful, and the community survived despite a significant population drop. Today, the school is named after Moose Kerr. The town's motto is "Never Say Die."
Inuvik may have become the new administrative centre, but Aklavik's proud little settlement lives on.
A Brief Visit to Aklavik.
Driving along a frozen river for hundreds of kilometres and climbing a steep icy bank onto firm land is always a weird, almost surreal experience. For people not used to extreme climates, we never see anything at home like the geography we experience in the high Arctic North. Ice roads, boats trapped for the winter season in frozen seas or rivers, cars and snowmobiles totally engulfed in thick snow - or a fracture in the ice and snow delineating a river or ocean shoreline - are mind-blowing sights for us Australians. We have never tired of the wonders of the Arctic region.
The first and most obvious feature of Aklavik was the lack of people. A few heavily overcoated people stumbled carrying heavy goods from grocery outlets. A small number of children ran in the streets. Besides that, virtually no cars or snowmobiles were in operation - and seemingly no habitation. Of course, this was winter season, and obviously, no one except a tourist would be crazy enough to walk the streets during a bitterly cold minus 30 °C day.
There was, however, a noticeable pride in the little hamlet. The streets were clean, and the cottages were well-kept, neat and tidy.
Our first stop was at the Northern Store, and we grew to love it! The shelves were packed with quality groceries, and the fruit and vegetables looked amazingly fresh. Throughout our travels in the Northwest Territories and Nunavut, we were constantly impressed by the variety and quality of fresh and preserved produce.
Northern Store staff was friendly, helpful, and very generous. Thankfully, it was no problem for us to use their workplace toilets. It was also an excellent place to stock up on supplies. Tiny Aklavik did not have cafes or hotels; once again, lunch was a make-do affair. Actually, it suited all of us perfectly. In our view, nothing is worse than having to endure three meals daily when travelling.
Leo planned for us to eat inside the bus, and at least it was warm and comfortable. The ever-resourceful Takashi, however, suggested that we go to the local airport to have our lunch. As usual, he had looked up places we could possibly sit - and that were open to the public. It turned out to be a great idea. Not only did the airport building have ample space, tables and chairs, but it also had toilets... and it was warm.
I was surprised and dismayed to see signage in the building warning people about syphilis being on the increase in the Northwest Territories. Comprehensive but simply designed, the information was very well presented.
Despite my microbiology background, my brain went into overdrive... Just what was that rash we had all over our bodies? I had had a sore throat. And Alan had always told me that no one would even notice if I developed dementia. After all, I had always been absent-minded... And we were both deaf...
Note: On many trips we have undertaken in the Arctic, Alan and I have developed intensely itchy rashes, mostly on our backs and stomachs. We often wondered whether it was scabies. And in some instances, it was! It was not until we came home that we read medical documentation about a condition known as "Cold Rash," caused by exposure to extreme cold conditions. Cortisone cream cleared it up. Carrying it when travelling in the high Arctic is a good idea.
I smiled at the power of my imagination, recalling the adage, "Don't bother standing on the seat. A spirochaete can jump eight feet!" Relieved we hadn't contracted syphilis through immaculate infection, I visited the women's toilets. And here I came across an even more bizarre notice: "Please do not put snot on the walls. It is very unsanitary and hard to remove off the walls" Oh god, really?
We left Aklavik in the early afternoon. Conscious of unpredictable conditions on the ice road, Leo was keen to get going. We agreed. Nathan had organised for us to visit the Inuvik Museum. And Alan was keen to visit the liquor shop to replenish our supplies...
The Story of "The Mad Trapper"
As we were leaving Aklavik, we passed by the grave site of "The Mad Trapper," the story Leo had mentioned earlier in the day. Leo must have twigged that some of us were half asleep on the forward journey, as he reiterated the story as we drove past.
Albert Johnson, also known as the “Mad Trapper" (born circa 1890–1900, died 1932), was an outlaw of unknown background who was accused by locals in the Rat River, Fort McPherson area of tampering with and robbing their fur traps.
In December 1931, a Royal Mounted Canadian Police (RCMP) constable investigating complaints was shot and seriously wounded by the wanted trapper. The ensuing manhunt — one of the largest in Canadian history, lasted 48 days and covered 240 km in temperatures averaging minus 40°C.
Before the hunt was over, a second policeman was badly wounded and another killed. The killer, tentatively but never positively identified as Albert Johnson, was so skilled at survival that the police had to employ a bush pilot to track him. The Trapper’s amazing flight from the police across Arctic terrain in the midst of winter captured the attention of the Canadian nation and earned him the title “The Mad Trapper of Rat River.”
Johnson was finally shot dead by RCMP police in the Eagle River area on 17th February 1932. His body was buried at Aklavik. No motive for Johnson’s crimes has ever been established, and his identity remains a mystery. Dismissive as we were then, after reading more about The Mad Trapper, it was an extraordinary story.
A Visit to the Inuvik Museum.
Upon Nathan's inquiry, the curator of the Inuvik Museum kindly agreed to open the premises on our return. It was - like most places - closed for the winter season. A gently spoken man, the curator was happy to answer any questions we may have had or for us just to browse the little museum.
The exhibits mainly focused on the culture and way of life of the local Inuit and Gwich'in people, local animal life, and old curiosities dating from when the region was settled. To my embarrassment, the curator also arranged for us to receive certificates verifying that we had crossed the Arctic Circle.
Meanwhile, Leo had driven Alan to the local liquor store. It was time to stock up on supplies as we were in Inuvik for another five days. And it was a very steep, icy walk from our hotel to the store.
It was also a reminder that on our coming trip to Nunavut, from Arctic Bay to Resolute, we would not be able to purchase alcohol. We could apparently buy alcohol at our first stop, Rankin Inlet, but the next settlements of Arctic Bay and Resolute were designated "dry zones."
A Surprise Evening - Sighting of the Northern Lights
On a delightful yet very cold evening, we walked from the museum back to our hotel. I must admit that we all felt a bit sad that it was the end of our tour. The eight days had passed so quickly, and despite our precarious first meeting, the tour had gone very smoothly, and we had all gotten along very well.
The tour was excellent and more than met our expectations. It was great fun. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and gathered that others in our group did as well.
That evening, we enjoyed a fine meal at the Mackenzie Hotel Restaurant, the Mackenzie Grill & Shivers Lounge. A nice ending to our tour.
But Nathan-the-Irrepressible couldn't help himself. As he said, the tour had not ended quite yet. "Let's meet at the hotel foyer at midnight, then walk down to the river to view the Northern Lights", he enthused.
Only a few people looked half-interested. We made up our minds after talking with staff, who advised that the icy road down to the river could be really treacherous at night.
Lying in bed late evening, we looked out of our hotel window. And there it was - in all its splendour and glory - the Northern Lights of Inuvik
How wonderful, we thought. We didn't even have to get out of bed...
takashi
2024-10-15
We all enjoyed this tour,good memories. Next time I want to go there summertime. I've been to Arctic ocean,but I saw just a white field.