Edge of India

Thursday, February 20, 2014
Dwārka, Gujarāt, India
Well, it seems to be on the edge of India, and I haven't googled to confirm that it is, but the port of Okha is probably one of the westernmost points in India. The southern tip of Kanyakumari seems to attract many – standing on Vivekananda rock, a million photos of grinning (or serious faces) have been taken (although if you are really pedantic you can argue that Dakshin Gangotri is the southernmost point in India !). The western tip mainly attracts devotees of Krishna.

From Porbander to Dwaraka is an interesting drive – sparse traffic and reasonable roads . Before , I had passed a stretch of road right by the sea and just after Porbandar is a marshy area full of flamingoes. Reaching Dwaraka at midday, is a slight problem. Vishnu seems to have an afternoon siesta, while Shiva doesn’t – can anybody explain why in this part of the country, Shaivaite temples are open through the day while Vaishnavite temples close at noon and open only in the evening.

So off I went to the Nageshwar temple some 20 km off Dwaraka. It is the second Jyotirling in Gujarat, but the contrast with Somnath could not be greater. This could have been a
wonderful temple - far away from the beaten track , no crowds at all, in a remote place in the middle of nowhere. But this temple has fallen prey to the more usual afflictions of Indian temples. I had not even switched off my engine when on came a hustler wanting to apply a tilak for money. Just as you enter the temple, there’s another tilak applier asking for money. You walk to the altar through a series of shops selling trinkets, flowers, books, etc etc right
inside the temple. The lingam itself is under the protective hood of the nag – but in general the temple was unimpressive. Left after 10 minutes. Just goes to show , by contrast, how impressive Somnath is.

Off to Okha to kill time. From the Okha jetty, boats take you to Bet Dwaraka , an island just off the mainland where there is a temple as well . Another Vaishnavaite temle enjoying an afternoon siesta, so I gave it a miss. On the way back is the industrial town of Mithapur, home to Tata Chemical’s soda ash plant. Its one of the oldest large factories in India – 75 years old and set up in pre independence days. You would expect me to stop at the factory, go inside and say Hello to the factory head – after all this is as must of a "tourist attraction" as any other ! Yes, I know, I am weird !

And then as the sun went down, it was time to go to Dwarakadish temple – the famous temple of Lord Krishna. Its a small temple and with a number of mini shrines to the goddesses associated with Vishnu. Hustle level was medium, but by Indian standards tolerable. It’s an impressive temple with an air of divinity. The nice thing about how it is constructed is that you can have a darshan as long as you want – the idol is visible from quite far.

Dwaraka as a town is extremely unimpressive. Cows are everywhere (perhaps understandable). Yes, Krishna was fond of them, but do they have to roam all over the streets, deposit dung everywhere and push and shove against the car trying to wend its way along narrow streets ? The smell of cowdung is all pervasive. Visit the temple and leave the place !!

By now expect the no photography policy in all temples. So no photos, I am afraid.

As the sun went down, drove on to Jamnagar. It seems to be the Shenzhen of India – Essar refinery, GSFC’s fertiliser plant and, of course, the big daddy – Reliance’s gigantic petrochemicals complex. For some twenty kilometers or so, its all twinkling factory lights, giant stacks, and huge complexes. An awe inspiring sight – they should promote this as a tourism destination !!! But then, maybe only a crazy guy like me will go ! 


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Comments

Ravi Rajagopalan
2014-02-20

I beat you to it. I spent a week in Okha in April 1985 and visited Beyt Dwaraka. At that time they were quiet and simple spots. Okha, incidentally, was bombed by the Pakistani Air Force in 1971.

Vincy
2014-02-22

Thank you again for the pictures. See you are becoming an expert at it :-) :-) Through your journey you have taken me to places, I proabbly will never visit in my life. Okha being the southern most tip of India, is something I learnt from your post. :-)

indigoite
2014-02-22

@Ravi - What on earth were you doing there in 1985. And how come you did not fall into the clutches of a Gujju ben, given your heightened romanticism at that time :):)

@Vincy - Yes, thanks to you, I found the click button on my phone :):)

Well Okha may not be the westernmost tip - Dwarka is a shade more western and probably somewhere in Kutch is even more so, but from the map, and in reality, it does feel like the edge of India

Sandhya Sriram
2014-02-22

I once took a journey from yashodhadham to dwarka with 2 colleagues- half way - a lift with a truck driver and then a rickety bus and then the boat drive with Goats and dung to Bet Dwaraka. I dont know if it was devotion, but i definitely enjoyed my little adventure.

indigoite
2014-02-23

@Sandhya - You did that ???? Wow ! Double wow !!

2025-05-22

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