McLeod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh, India
Set off from Chandigarh early in the morning on the road to Dharamsala and McLeodganj. Past Anandpur Sahib , the seat of an impressive Gurudwara, but also the place from where the Akalis passed the Anandpur Sahib resolution in 1973, which led to political problems and later on to the Sikh militancy in the 1980s. Past the Bhakra Nangal dam - any person of my vintage would have had it drummed into his or her head of what a fantastic development the dam was, in Social Studies in school ! And then the hills began - these are tiny hills and just an appetiser for things to come. Onwards to Kangra , where I stopped to see the fort.
The Kangra fort is an old one built by the Hindu rulers long ago. It's an impressive citadel and as a defensive position must have been formidable in those days. And yet it was repeatedly overrun, first by Mahmud of Ghazni ( it looks like he had little else to do in life but make repeated forays into India !), then by Muhammad bin Tughlaq, then by Jahangir and then by Ranjit Singh. Just goes to show that no fortress is impregnable, however mighty it might be.
Finally it was laid low by a massive earthquake early in the 20th century, after which it was abandoned. But a full 100 years later it is still an impressive sight.
Past Kangra it was a short ride to Dharamsala, but I didn't tarry there. I went right up to the congested McLeodganj which is where the home of the Dalai Lama is. Extremely narrow road and steep inclines, coupled with rain - it was a warm up for the sterner driving tests to follow. In case you are wondering about the odd name for the town - this is to be seen in a fair number of places in Himachal. The Brits loved Himachal and took every opportunity to run away from the heat of Delhi and head for the cooler climes of this state. Places started to be named after the Brits who were there for a long time. There's a Forsythganj as a neighbouring hamlet as well. Messers McLeod and Forsyth were petty Ramamrithams of those days - maybe a Commisssioner or a Deputy. They should have long been forgotten. But two things conspired to make them immortal. The Himachalis do not care to rename back every place as the rest of India is wont to do. And secondly, and more importantly, the Dalai Lama came here. Now Mr McLeod's name will live for posterity. Not bad for a Ramamritham, eh !
It's pissing rain here. And chill enough for me to take out my first jacket. Staying in a neat homestay. Only trouble is that it is on a narrow road and there's no parking. My poor companion is standing in the rain on the edge of the road, two wheels in the gutter. Boo Hoo.
Tomorrow, I will spend the whole day for the one reason I came here. To see, feel, and sense the Tibetans.
Vaingluory
2018-09-17
Now that you have mentioned our dear Ramamritham, this place feels more at home. Half my folks are into deep depression knowing you will be spending a good whole month in the land of the choicest of herbs and won't be smoking any. Is Malana on your planned route? Wishing you get high with the charismatic beauty of the mountains, the simplicity of the Kinnaurs and the warmth of the stoned Israelis :D
Usha
2018-09-17
please taste the momos at Lhasa Restaurant. they are the best in the world. You can have 4 momos for every one sukha chappathi you have. Is the Dalai Lama resident at McCleod Ganj at this time? are you going to seek audience with him, or knowing that you are in town , has he sought audience with you??
Sandhya Sriram
2018-09-18
I wonder why you chose the rainy season for such a difficult trip. And yeah... without ramarathinam, your posts are incomplete... so that makes them memorable too....
Vishal
2018-09-18
Wow ! Drive to McLeodganj is something.. Did you take Khada Danda Road or the normal one ? You may want to try dinner at McClo Restaurant right at the edge of market. To see, feel, and sense the Tibetans - Quite Awesome :) :)
indigoite
2018-09-18
@Vaingluory - Wow , thats what strikes you about this area !!! No, not going to Malana. Not going in the direction of Kulu, it requires a four hour trek, consider my age ..... :)
indigoite
2018-09-18
@Usha - No point telling you I won't go in search of food !! The Dalai Lama is somewhere in Europe today.
indigoite
2018-09-18
@Sandhya - Oh this is the end of the rainy season - I chose the time between rains and the freezing cold. Can't escape a rain or two, especially in McLeodganj which is one of the highest rainfall receiving areas in the country. But its OK. Not too bad.
indigoite
2018-09-18
@Vishal - Yes, driving in any hill town is a real challenge - narrow congested roads. No way I am going to drive through that bazaar !!
Emma
2018-09-18
Ah! Went there a lifetime ago...
indigoite
2018-09-19
@Emma - LIfetime ?? Young lassie - does that mean two years ago :):) Oh yes - every one of the readers must have been there before.
Suja
2018-09-19
I haven't been there! Thought of it once and then thought of the zillion tourists who no doubt gather there and decided against it. The story of the fort is interesting.
Anne in Salem
2018-09-20
'The Brits loved Himachal and took every opportunity to run away from the heat of Delhi,' eh? According to Noel Coward, only Mad Dogs and Englishmen go out in the Mid-day Sun. Look it up on Youtube when you get back. That driving looks terrifying. Beautiful pictures.
indigoite
2018-09-20
@Suja - Yes, its overrun , but the charm of going to where the Tibetan colony is based was not to be missed.
indigoite
2018-09-20
@Anne - Yes, that's a common saying, but said more in irony. THe British established so many posts in hill stations as they tried to beat the Indian heat.
Shachi
2018-09-21
Fascinating!! The only Tibetan memory I have from back home is the winter market every year where they would sell woolens. Always wore them to school, the bright red sweater, scarf, and mittens.
indigoite
2018-09-21
@Shachi - Yes, their costumes are colourful. Unless you are a lama in which case all you wear is red and yellow.
Vincy
2018-09-26
You have become an expert in taking amazing pictures. Loved all of them and your candid notes about the fort, englishmen and the places. looking forward to your read about your time with Tibetians. Safe Journey Ramesh.
indigoite
2018-09-26
@Vincy - Thanks Vincy. Hugely appreciate your catching up on all the posts and commenting on virtually every photo. I feel your presence while travelling , something I missed before. Thanks so much. I'm touched.
Gils
2018-09-28
Waatee wow.. History lessons in geography post. Semmma trip
indigoite
2018-09-28
@Gilsu - Unfortunately I can't keep history from anything, can I ? I should have done History major in college !