Narkand, Himachal Pradesh, IndiaNarkhanda - 2700 mtrs; 8900 ft
I am at Narkhanda, about 60 kms up from Shimla and is supposedly a location for skiing in the winter.
Well, there's really very little skiing in India - Kufri and Narkhanda market themselves to Indians who have never seen snow. Forget ski slopes - you can glide around on flat ground here. That's about it. Anyway that's not now - that's when the snow falls and there's still at least a month to go
Narkhanda is where apple growing in Himachal Pradesh started. And therein lies a most unlikely story, the story of Satyananda Stokes, who introduced apple cultivation here about a century ago. He was an American, born Samuel Evans Stokes, from Philadelphia and came from a Quaker family. In 1904 he came to work in India in a leper colony in Himachal. He grew in love with India, settled here, married an Indian, converted to Hinduism and became Satyananda Stokes. He was actively involved in India's freedom movement, became a member of the All India Congress Committee. He was jailed by the British - the only American to become a political prisoner of the British !
It was Satyananda Stokes, who took up farming and introduced apples into Himachal, especially in the region in and around Narkhanda.
. It was a huge success and soon everybody took it up. Apple farming continues to thrive in this state. His grandson is reputed to be continuing the tradition here !
I am staying at a "ski resort" in Narkhanda. Well, it's just a hotel. But with lovely views around and peace and calm and quiet. The air smells fresh and its all very nice.
I hinted yesterday at the criticality of altitude. Seasoned travellers know the risks of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) once you cross 3000 mtrs (1000 ft) mark. This is a consequence of rapidly diminishing oxygen levels as you ascend. The trick is to ascend slowly giving the body time to acclamatise. The trekker's mantra of climb high, but sleep low is another golden rule, even if you are driving and not trekking. I am being careful with a slow climb. Yesterday I reached 3100 mtrs at Jalori, but descended to 2500 mtrs at Narkhanda to sleep. I shall keep doing this and fingers crossed will avoid AMS. There is some data to say older people are less prone to AMS - maybe there are some benefits of ageing !! The expert will snigger at all this caution, but I am a solo driver and have to take care.
Seasoned travellers know all this of course, but for the casual tourist, flying into Leh or Lhasa and immediately going around town is a recipe for disaster. And no, it has nothing to do with physical fitness. Even Olympic athletes get this while an obese out of shape guy avoids it. Its not yet known why it hits some people and not others.
It's time to move on to Kinnaur, one of the two districts I specifically targetted for this trip.
Suja
2018-09-22
What an interesting story! I googled Mr.Stokes, someone seems to have written a book about him too. I'll see if I can get my hand on it. Google came up with charming photo with his wife and child too. I was taken aback to see how lush and green the landscape is; I am used to the Swiss mountains where the treeline is 2100-2200m. Once my husband retires, I have to cajole him into taking a road trip with me in the Himalayas, I haven't been these since my childhood.
Daya
2018-09-22
Looks like this drive is food for the soul. Drive safe.
Sandhya Sriram
2018-09-22
Interesting how some legacies get created... Surprised that we have never heard of stokes before... not in history books , nor in WhatsApp forwards that comes back to you 10 times :) Keep safe for your journey onward
indigoite
2018-09-23
@Suja - Ha Ha - If I have contributed to your being bitten by the Himalayas bug, then I'm glad ! Og yes, its very very lush here. But a few days from now I'll be going to completely barren landscapes that more resemble the moon .
indigoite
2018-09-23
@Daya - Awww. Lovely to see you here. Yo've ben on somelovely driving trips too. Your dad is far better at this than I am
indigoite
2018-09-23
@Sandhya - Yes, there are stories around the corner everywhere. The joy is to discover them and that adds to the charm of travelling.
Jatinder Mohan Saluja
2018-09-23
Awesome Ranesh. Reading it is giving thrills and feel as I am already there with you in Narmada. Keep safe. Best wishes.
indigoite
2018-09-24
@Jatinder - Hey thanks so much.
Gils
2018-09-28
Historical travelogue series.. Semma interesting it gets with each post.
Vincy
2018-09-28
I googled too. interesting story about stokes and there's a lot about him on the net. never heard of him before. That information about AMS would help me whenever i go for the trekking and will keep that in mind. I thoroughly enjoy being on this journey. yeah @Gilsu Semma interesting ila?
indigoite
2018-09-28
@Gilsu - You are reading every post of mine. Very flattered
indigoite
2018-09-28
@Vincy - Didn't realise you are a trekker. And that you had even planned a trek in HP. Wow ! You are something.
Vinod
2018-10-03
Looking forward to your views on Chitkul and the Kinnaur stretches - more from a cultural differences/similarities point of view. Chinese vs Tibetan that is. Shouldn't expect that it will be largely different but just in case!
Vinod
2018-10-03
Learnt of HAPE and HACE following through on learning more about AMS - Thanks to your post. This learning will always stay with me. Thanks much.
indigoite
2018-10-03
@Vinod - No Chinese influence here at all. The high mountains had insulated the two populations from each other. Don't read up too much on HAPE etc. That's for mouintaineers and for those who ignore the onset of AMS.