McLeod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh, India
That's the title of the autobiography of the Dalai Lama and it is in his abode and temple, and the base of the exiled Tibetan community, that I spent almost the entire day today.
What a come down from the magnificent Pota La. Tibet is two thirds the size of India. Its that large. From such an extensive domain, the Dalai Lama and his exiled followers are now based in narrow, congested, wet, McLeodganj. The temple, the hostel and his abode is tiny. But presumably the freedom, and the respect he and his followers get is the only saving grace.
The temple is small, but serene as all Buddhist temples are. Today there were no crowds and so it was peaceful. Just spent a lot of time sitting in the temple and absorbing the atmosphere. At noon, the monks emerged to do their peculiar ritual of discussions marked by loud clapping. They pair in two, one sitting and one standing and they discuss vigorously some issue and the standing monk every few seconds emits a loud clap to punctuate a point. The discussions were all in Tibetan - so I couldn't understand a thing !
Went to the musuem of course, which is just a lament of how bad things are in Tibet and what they have lost.
Very sad to see. The entire Tibetan community here is virulently anti Chinese, unsurprisingly.
This is not the place to debate the politics of Tibet. The original fleers along wth the Dalai Lama in 1959 have become old and many are probably no more. The next generation possibly hasn't seen Tibet at all, although there is still a trickle of escapees fleeing to India from there. How long will they be able to keep the culture alive in a foreign land ?
The Dalai Lama isn't in town today. He is in the Netherlands , one of the few countries he is able to visit.There are a few Indian tourists, but there are also scores of foreigners. For some reason this is a magnet for visitors from Israel. I don't buy the argument of "getting high" - you can do that anywhere. Why here ?
McLeodganj, as a town, is a mess. All hill towns in India are like this. I knew this before, of course. But then I came not to see the town. I came to , for just a day, be with the Tibetan community. Freedom is sweet, but exile is not. So what does freedom in exile taste like ? Bitter sweet ?
Anuj
2018-09-18
Finally caught up with all your posts . Reading them at 3:00 AM. No, not work but football . It’s been raining here as well so you aren’t missing much . Do talk about the road condition and the drive in the hills . Would be good info for future travellers .
Anuj
2018-09-18
And lovely pictures btw. Keep them coming . Takes me back to my cost visit in 1991 as a 10 year old . I was on a bus from Kangra to Dharamshala , sitting on the front seat next to the driver giving me an amazing view of the mountains up in the distance and also the gorges right next . Is the train still operational?
Vaingluory
2018-09-19
"Why here" - perhaps the answer lies in Malana Cream. You may like to find out from the locals what's so special about it. Besides a lot of joints there do not allow Indians, thereby making it safe for the Israeli women from the prying lecherous advances of Indian men. Himachal for me was always Dalai Lama and weed ... Eagerly waiting for your blog to change my perception.
indigoite
2018-09-19
@Anuj - Wow - Up at 3.00 AM ? You are something :) No, there's no train anymore. The town in 1991 must have been incredibly prettier. Now its too crowded.
indigoite
2018-09-19
@Vaingluory - Didn't see any weed, but then I wasn't going to the places where it must be flowing. If any cafe threw me out saying it was only for Israeli women, they are in serious trouble :)
Sandhya Sriram
2018-09-19
hmmm... bitter sweet is sometimes better than bitter or sweet, it teaches one to value the sweet and handle the bitter... , but one has to move on. living in the past only causes pain.
Suja
2018-09-19
Not looking for spiritual experiences but spending a whole day amongst monks? :) Your comments about the 'mess' reminds me of my own reaction to Darjeeling which I visited a couple of years ago.
indigoite
2018-09-20
@ Sandhya - Well said
indigoite
2018-09-20
@Suja - Ha Ha. But it was more to understand Tibetan way of life rather than only a spiritual experience. As you and Anne said, we cannot keep the spirit out of everything we do.
Shachi
2018-09-21
No picture of the bells? I’ve seen it so many times that it’s the only one I remember from this place. There is a Tibetan center near my place where monks visit often, and I’ve been to some of their ceremonies. Somehow I’ve never been able to feel any connection with the rituals or chants they do. I stopped going now. Wonder how this place must be? Hope I visit sometime.
indigoite
2018-09-21
@Shachi - Bells ? Do you mean prayer wheels ? That's ubiquitous in all Buddhist temples, including a giant one. Yeah I missed clicking them.
Vincy
2018-09-27
What a wonderful way to feel and understand the community! and in the bargain let a whole set of virtual travellers to experience it. I really do not want to rush through your posts. I am savoring every tiny bit of your travel and writing. Looks like its going to take some time catching up to where you are right now.
Gils
2018-09-28
Tibet 2/3rd of Indiava!!! Such a big area china usurped and no one raised even a finger!!? Vekka kedu
indigoite
2018-09-28
@Vincy - Awwww. You are very kind.
indigoite
2018-09-28
@Gilsu - Yes. Tibet is huge.
Vinod
2018-10-03
Curious if Chinese cultural practices live together with the Tibetan practices! Assuming that many Chinese would have moved here before the Tibetans came.
indigoite
2018-10-03
@Vinod - No the two cultures are entirely different and they just can't see eye to eye. Few Han Chinese really lived in Tibet until the Communists decide to "populate" the place. Now the Han are the majority and the Tibetans are the minority in Tibet.