Stromness, Scotland, United Kingdom
The highlight of my trip to Scotland was to visit Orkney Islands. I had planned this for several years and had to wait for mid summer as weather and storms can be very erratic on these northernmost islands of the UK. I had researched the ancient sites from the time of Stonehenge that are not that well known even in the UK. BBC4 has done some documentaries since I researched it all on my own. I was also planning to rent a bike to visit all these sites in summer as a good way to explore and limited bus service.
There are two bike rent options. One in Stomness where the ferry arrives, the other in the main town of Kirkwall. I had decided to base myself in Stromness with my hotel so arranged the bike rental here. It is a few hundred metres south of the ferry terminal. I was expecting a road from google maps but the old town is all paved with cars still driving through. I had to ask a couple of local stores how to find the bike rental.
There is an older couple that rents the bikes from their home so no worries about coming back after closing time. It was also very odd for the ferry to be 40 mins late as they had been waiting for me. I declined to take a helmet as I was expecting rain or wind so would need my hood.
There is one road leading out of Stromness and I was trying to get my bearings and use of the bike. As I could not check into the hotel yet I was able to leave my bags at the rental place but one small bag I kept and was tied by cable straps
While we had stunning clear weather for the ferry ride just as I was biking the rain started on cue as light drizzle
There was a large lake I had to bike around which was the Loch of Stenness. I was trying to orient on my map and the roads were not matching exactly
The white road signs were the traffic direction signs while the brown signs showed information to historic and tourist sights. The first sight I arrived at was Unstan Chambered Cairn so I was able to pinpoint my location on the map.
I didnt want to leave the bike and go walking inside what was basically a mound. I asked one lady leaving and she said it was a small passage and some graffiti
Next was the Maeshowe Visitor Centre which you had to pay to go inside so I opted not to. This was misleading as the visitor centre and Maeshowe mound are two separate sights. I should have continued further to the mound but I had the wrong bearings on my map now thinking the visitor centre was Maeshowe which was not matching the map again
I followed the signs to the Stones of Stenness. The rain was steady drizzle now affecting your mood to be doing all this cycling in the rain
There were more cyclists and visitors arriving at this site. Many of the cyclists had brought their bikes from the UK mainland as I didnt see anyone else at the rental place.
Crossing a causeway from the Stones of Stenness will bring you to the Ness of Brodgar. This is an active excavation site and they were saying there will be a tour at 1pm which they thought I had arrived for.
The site is free entry to walk around and it was becoming much more busier with tourists and tour groups
A short cycle ride up was the Ring of Brodgar. Like Stonehenge this is a much larger circle of standing stones. Unlike Stonehenge it is completely open to the public and you can walk right up to the stones
I did a partial cycle around the ring which you would never be allowed to do at Stonehenge where they keep all visitors at a roped off distance.
The car park was busy as more tour groups arrived. There was more wind and drizzle as I continued to bike
I had planned my trip for July to have nice weather but it was about 15 degrees, wind, drizzle, and miserable weather to be out biking but I had to complete my route
I had planned a much more ambitious route on the map not realizing how hilly and isolated the terrain was going to be aside from the unco-operative weather
Leaving the tourist sights I was now isolated in rural roads heading the 7 miles to Skara Brae. Throwing me off also the signs are in miles so you have to double to convert to kms
There was the odd passing cyclist or vehicle but for the most part I was completely alone biking these roads trying to get to the archaeological site of Skara Brae
After at least half an hour of cycling on long rural roads seeming to go nowhere I started to see signs for Skara Brae. The only company had been the cows or sheep who all seemed to run in fear as I stopped by my bike and tried to approach for photos
Eventually there were more signs and I started to see buildings in the distance. As you approach Skara Brae and Skaill House there are big stone gates so you know you have arrived
I did not have a bike lock and was told it is safe to leave your bike on Orkney. I guess I would have to take my chances but I kept my bag with me
Entrance was 12.50 pounds and included entry to both Skara Brae and Skaill House. Had I understood the 44 pounds Scotland pass entry would have been included to both sites
There is a visitor centre with cafe and movie room before going back outside into the wind and rain. Being on the coast both had picked up more strength
There is a replica cairn you can go inside as the real site of Skara Brae is all closed off.
A short walk up is the Skara Brea archeological site. There are underground one room homes but we can only view from the outside and viewing platforms. Like its namesake Skaro on Doctor Who the winds were howling menacingly making life here quite challenging
The walking route will then take you to Skaill House and I was anxious to get out of the winds and rains
This is a stately home. I'm not sure of who or why they lived here. It was probably coincidence that the Skara Brae archeological site was found just outside their grounds and that they didnt build their home on top of it.
There were stately rooms typical of period homes. They also had a Royal visit or stayover from some of the photos
I asked the staff for directions how to get back to Stromness on bike as I was done with biking in the rain and was not going to try to go anywhere else on my map. They said I just turn right and keep going
Again I was alone in the rain and winds, with just the cows and sheep for company on lonely country roads. It is several kms back to Stromness with no signage
Finally when you come to the road junction you will see a sign to Stromness telling you to turn right again.
I think the rain finally stopped as I reached Stromness and I could relax having made it back from isolated country roads and back in civilization
Stromness is a small fishing town and I biked up the narrow paved street which is the town centre to return the bike and collect my luggage
I went to the far end of town taking pictures before coming back to return my bike. It was only a few hundred metres further, it is not a big community
Now I could walk back to my hotel at my own pace. It is an interesting small town and good choice for my stayover instead of the main population centre Kirkwall where I would be leaving from tomorrow
I thought I would have a nice hotel to relax. With lack of choices the room was expensive. It was old furniture (not vintage), the tv kept freezing, only one plug outlet with extension cord to run the tv or charge your devices, old chair and carpet, separate hot and cold taps, all windows sealed shut, door key upside down, clothes hangers backwards.
I do plan to come back and bike this route again now I have scouted it and to do it again properly hopefully in clearer weather. The sites are best to explore by bus or car, or on a day trip by ferry from the mainland which most people from the UK were doing.
See also vlog of Orkney Biking to Ancient Sites (14 mins) - https://youtu.be/S9L5Vg2QkXM
2025-05-22