Kobarid, Tolmin, Slovenia
The air was fresh and cool when we headed off at 8:30am for breakfast at the small restaurant run by the owners of our apartments. We were able to choose from 4 similar menus consisting of eggs, bread rolls, cheese, meat, condiments, etc. We had no qualms preparing one or two of the bread rolls to take with us for lunch, as we were given individual trays with our allotted supplies.
With stomachs nice and full, we set off for the day’s adventure — a round trip hike up the SočaValley. Our first stop was at the Italian War Memorial erected around the church of St Anthony, a short uphill walk along the road from Kobarid. This imposing structure was built to commemorate the soldiers who lost their lives fighting in this area during World War I, and is maintained by the Italian government. The views across the valley and over the town were magnificent.
Our hike continued upwards, mostly through shaded areas, which we appreciated, as the temperature was rapidly rising towards the day’s maximum of Above 30C. Our walk took us past the ruins of the middle medieval (11th C) settlement of Tonovcov Grad, and then on to the remains of some of the Italian fortifications from WWI.
This whole area was the site of the final battle that saw Italy secede to the Austrian-Hungary army.
Whilst crossing the bridge suspended over the Soča River, we joined the crowd watching a group of people clothed in wetsuits preparing to jump from the bridge into the city cold waters below. One by one, they climbed over the edge of the bridge and then bravely leapt into the air. This activity is definitely only for the courageous...or fool-hardy!
Michael had gone on to the small beach a little way up stream. We finally got his attention and indicated that we were continuing on to the waterfall. I waited for him to climb back up the hill whilst Hermann & Gitti went ahead to the waterfall. Apparently, the water was so icy cold, Michael could barely go in deeper than his knees!
We followed the river bed past one waterfall (a huge drop that was mostly covered by the bridge we had to cross) and on to where the gorge narrowed, flanked by high cliffs. A narrow walkway protruded out from one of the cliff sides — passing returning foot traffic was a little precarious at this point! Around the corner, we came across the most magnificent water fall inside a cavernous area.
The light streamed in from above, making it all the more spectacular.
Gitti and Hermann were waiting for us there, having enjoyed the stunning scene for about 10 minutes before our arrival. They walked back along the timber walkway whilst we stayed a little longer to take in the magnificent view. Having taken enough photos, we too turned back. This time, rather than sticking close to the side of the cliff, I had to pass on the left-hand side, near the unprotected edge. In between each person I passed, I reached for the guide cable that runs along the side of the cliff, just to ensure that I wouldn’t lose my balance and fall off the walkway!
Downstream a little way, we sat down to rest for a while — some of us devoured the rolls we had left over from breakfast! Revitalised, we continued on our way, back-tracking a short distance before taking the path back to Kobarid along the other side of the Soca River. We passed a few more fortifications from WWI along the way. Soon, we were walking in the open, with very few trees to shade us — it was hot! But the views of the river were really great.
Almost back in the village, we again crossed over the Soca River, this time over the Bridge of Napoleon. The original bridge that the man himself walked upon has been replaced by a rather grand concrete structure — another obligatory photo stop!
After stocking up on a few supplies at the supermarket along the road back in to the village centre, we returned to our apartments, much in need of some refreshing showers. I think we had been gone for around 4.5 hours. (Luckily, on this occasion, I’d remembered to take an antihistamine tablet before we set off, and so successfully avoided suffering from the draining heat rash that has so often developed in the past when we have done long walks in similar hot, humid conditions.
In the late afternoon, Gitti and Hermann visited the award-winning museum that details the history of the area, particularly focusing on WWI. We weren’t particularly interested (perhaps I would have been, had I not been so worn out!), and so stayed in our apartment. I washed a few items of clothing and hung them outside on a small clothes line protruding from the small balcony just outside our apartment.
Pre-dinner drinks in Gitti & Hermann’s apartment were followed by dinner at the restaurant recommended by the young woman at the tourist information centre. Apparently, it is known for its traditional dishes. The dishes were not as cheap or as large as the previous night’s meal, but they were tasty and interesting.
It was then time for bed — I don’t think it took any of us too long to fall asleep! :-)
Ian
2018-07-22
By walking along these magnificent tracks, you are able to experience so much more beautiful scenery than tourists limited by only travelling by motor vehicles. I have thoroughly enjoyed today's report, thank you.
Tracy
2018-07-23
Amazing scenery but not sure that I would be walking so far in the heat!