Baie-Saint-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Saint-Anne-de-Beaupre is the farthest north I’ve been before
on the Saint Lawrence’s north shore. It’s always exciting to head into new
territory, not that revisiting places you’ve been before can’t be enjoyable. I
always have some expectations of places I haven’t been based on what I’ve read
about them or pictures I’ve seen. Sometimes they just look different, though.
For example, I believed the north shore of the Saint Lawrence would continue to
be the kind of lowland farming country as it is for much of the distance
between Montreal and Quebec City. Not so. Within the 50 miles or so to
Baie-Saint-Paul the road passes inland through quite mountainous country and
passes a point that exceeds 2,000 feet before dropping down again into a valley
by the river.
With absolutely gorgeous sunny weather but a poorer forecast
for the days ahead, I decided to head a short distance inland to Grand Jardins
National Park (actually a provincial park, national only in the sense of Quebec
being a nation) for the first hike I planned to do in the region.
The hike to
the peak of Mont du Lac des Cygnes (which I believe means Swan Lake Mountain)
is described as easy and one of the most popular in Quebec. And at about three
hours round trip it is one possible to start at 4:00 in the afternoon on a
beautiful day. The 1,700 foot (500+ meter) climb to the peak on the 4.2 km (2.5
mile) long trail is actually relatively easy because of the trail’s grooming.
It’s almost like a walk on a trail in an urban park. Then closer to the top it
becomes raised wooden boardwalks and steps – all very civilized for a mountain
peak.
The views from the top in all directions are fantastic,
although elevation differences are not all that great by the western standards
I’m used to. The summit is only 3,215 feet (980 meters) with the Saint Lawrence
in distant view and much of the surrounding land significantly elevated above
the river. The peak is actually located on the rim of an ancient meteor impact
crater that most of the Charlevoix region is located in. Quebec must be especially
meteor prone since three of the world’s top ten known meteor craters are within
the province. Overall the hike was a
good way to stretch my legs, my first real exercise on the trip beyond short hikes
in Gatineau and some city walking.
Charlevoix is considered one of Quebec’s more traditional
regions and was popular with Canadian artists in the early part of the last
century because of its tranquil scenery of mountains and river, fields and
villages.
The small towns like Baie-Saint-Paul, Les Eboulements, and La Malbaie
are popular tourist areas nowadays with some major resorts and spa facilities.
I’m a little early for the main season, though.
I had given some thought to spending an extra day or two in
the area and do at least one other hike to the Acropole-des-Draveurs mountain,
a supposedly very step and long hike to the highest peak in southern Quebec.
But all good things must come to an end, and the beautiful weather ended with
several days of rain forecast ahead. I decided to continue onwards in my journey
north.
I was struck by the massive police presence around Baie-Saint-Paul
which only got more intense as I got closer to La Malbaie. There was plenty of
military around as well and Canadian Coast Guard craft in the Saint Lawrence
and along its shores. Hmmm, what’s going on here? I’m used to places in the
U.S. sometimes feeling like a police state but don’t expect that in Canada. As
I passed Saint Irenee I reached a checkpoint where the road was main closed with
a detour inland. The officer asked me for my credentials. I thought he meant my
passport. “No, papers for the G7”. “Ummm,
no, I’m just a tourist”. When I got Internet access I looked up what was going
on, and sure enough there was going to be a summit of the leaders of the G7
nations later in the week at the Fairmont Le Richelieu Hotel in La Malbaie
later in the week. The websites say left-wing and anarchist protests are
expected in the small town as well as in Quebec City while it’s taking place.
Wow! I’m lucky I didn’t hit the area only a few days later.
2025-05-23