On Dec. 11 we moved from our northwest Nevis anchorage a couple miles south to moor off Charlestown where we cleared out with Customs in order to make our planned departure to Guadeloupe early the following morning around 5AM. We were moored in the southernmost portion of the large Nevis mooring field, nearest to the town to shorten our dinghy ride to the Customs office. We learned after dark this location had the unexpected "benefit" of also being near the weekend party hangout for the locals—literally right off the beach from party central. When they got cranked up the music was very loud yet basically incomprehensible all night long. We got little sleep, and when the music hadn't stopped by 2AM we lay awake another hour trying to guess its composition, then decided to get ready for departure. They were still partying at 0400 and we left the incessant beat behind us in the harbor as we departed. Our route would take us to Guadeloupe via the west shore of Montserrat. It would be an all day sail, including a close pass downwind of Montserrat's active Soufriere Hills volcano.

On the lee side of Nevis the wind was very light when we left and we motored for a while in the inky blackness carefully dodging other moored vessels and fish pot floats using our radar and spotlight . Not long after departing we were hailed by another cruising boat approaching us from astern on the same course. They could "see" us on AIS - asking if we could see them - desiring to keep a safe distance apart. We located their lights and proceeded, communicating with them and learning they were also bound for Guadeloupe. They originally intended to travel the eastern side of Montserrat, but with favorable wind they were hoping to get farther than their original destination at Deshaies, Guadeloupe on the north tip of the island. By radio Donna described our intention to get further down the Guadeloupe coast to Anse de Malendure, we felt we could make it there by around 4PM along the western route, and we would be happy to have their company. Also, the wind was a bit NE and it would have been difficult to get to the windward side of Montserrat. It’s always a concern to be able to arrive at anchorage by 4PM or so giving you time to settle in before the sun sets and darkness descends. Within a few minutes they radioed back that they would follow us . This was S/V Satori from Charleston SC, with Paul & Diane aboard. Instant friends.

Lava me now or lava me not! - Jimmy Buffett

As daylight broke that morning we were able to visually spot both Satori and Montserrat's looming Soufriere Hills volcano - complete with its smoky haze wafting downwind - in our path. The volcano explodes with unsettling regularity - its current activity began in 1994 and a major eruption in 1997 devastated the southern half of the island, including its capital, Plymouth. We set a course to pass approximately 5 miles off the coast of the island sure enough that the volcano's current semi-docile period would last long enough for us to pass safely. The wind died as predicted as we passed downwind of the peak but we were able to get a good look at the current moonscape-like land features around the volcano contrasting the lush, green tropical vegetation elsewhere on the island. Pass safely we did and emerging from the wind shadow of the volcano we had a brisk close hauled sail in 15-20 knot winds to Guadeloupe, arriving in late afternoon .

Our Guadeloupe landfall was near Pigeon Island, the site of the Cousteau Marine Reserve. We anchored off the seaside town of Malendure and were joined by Satori who invited us aboard for Happy Hour. Paul & Diane were gracious hosts and we enjoyed the impromptu time together with them.

Satori departed early the next morning of the 13th and we took advantage of being near the Cousteau Park to get in some morning snorkeling before continuing on. We motored the short distance to Pigeon Island and picked up a mooring ball and had a delightful swim in near perfect snorkeling conditions - clear water and light winds.

Destination Les Saintes

The terrific snorkeling conditions also meant poor sailing and we had to depart Pigeon Island in the late morning to have time to motor down the west coast of Basse Terre to our next destination, Iles des Saintes, a small group of islands off the southern tip of Guadeloupe . But motoring has its bright side - we get to fully charge the batteries, make lots of water, use the bread maker, and hope to hook some fish for easy reeling in with no sails up (it’s easy to slow the boat when needed). We'd been skunked in the fishing department since the passage to the BVI. Dave was a bit reluctant to even try fishing so close to the Guadeloupe coast - obvious barracuda territory. They eat anything, we can't eat them, and they've become a nuisance to catch. But luck was with us and not too long after starting to fish we had a strike and reeled in a 40 inch Wahoo - one of the best eating fish available! Life was good!

We arrived at Terre de Haut in Les Saintes around 1500 and immediately went into the town of Le Bourg to clear Guadeloupe customs. (We were "yellow flagged" (quarantined) at the Malendure anchorage until we could officially clear into the country the following morning at Les Saintes). After the low stress clearing process we walked the very charming French town a bit and were able to buy a yummy ice cream cone using US$ vs Euros from the nice lady at the sidewalk ice cream parlor. Then it was back to the boat for a Wahoo dinner! Double yum!

The next day, December 14, we went ashore to Le Bourg again to have a more leisurely stroll. It's a very quaint, well kept, and relatively prosperous town whose major industry seems to be scooter rentals. As we passed by school children sitting on the curb after their lunch we were gleefully serenaded in sing-song unison, "Bonjour Madame, Bonjour Monsieur!"  We enjoyed this spot a lot and didn't mind staying another day to await better sailing weather for moving on. We cleared out of customs the next day and also bought some baguettes, pastries, rum, and more ice cream. Low stress all around!