After a few days in the British Virgin Islands, sailing up and down Drake Channel, we re-entered the US in St. John, USVI to visit this island's Virgin Islands National Park and to set ourselves up to get to St. Thomas for Wally's return flight departing Nov. 30. This is a National Park worthy of taxpayer support with plenty of snorkeling opportunities—Donna’s favorite pastime.   Wally was having a good time amongst the fish, squid, rays, and turtles—and even found the hideaway of an octopus!

Cruising the St . John National Park bays, by coincidence, we re-found friends Mike and Suzi on Catana 431 S/V Awakening moored in Saltpond Bay on Turkey Day. From a distance, Dave (with his eagle eyes that can recognize the make of boats well before most others can) "There's only one boat in that bay! Wait a minute - it looks like Awakening!!"  Noted for the snorkeling there, we took to the Saltpond Bay waters. It proved to live up to its reputation, providing us the best snorkeling experience we had while in the National Park (of course we were not able to visit all sites). Later, after the generous Spotted Eagle Ray and sea turtle "appetizers" we relished, we had Mike & Suzi and Jib aboard for a Thanksgiving dinner Donna compiled of ham, butternut squash, cranberry stuffing, cranberry sauce, fresh baked bread, along with a colorful and delicious appetizer, Caesar salad and plenty of wine provided by our guests. Then topped it all off with Pineapple Upside-Down Cake for dessert. Yum!

Next stop was, appropriately, Christmas Cove, Great St . James Island, for our first dose of nonstop holiday music via Sirius. The following day, November 29, we sailed to port Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas. What a busy place St. Thomas is. Not really our style. Cruise ships, seaplanes, mega-yachts, tourists and traffic. After arrival we went ashore for a look around, including a stop at a watering hole. Following the pristine experiences of the St. John National Park, St. Thomas was, well, a change. The highlight for Dave was seeing a combination jewelry store and bar. Maybe the male visitors can drink enough to survive the shock of the price tag of the item their female companion selects from this shop.

With Wally's help, Dave installed our removable sun awning for the first time while here and within a few days we had perfected our technique for shielding us from the strong tropical setting sun. We're happy to report this budget 7 x 20 ft white sun- and water-resistant tarp only cost $7 from an online wholesaler Donna had located last year but it sure does the trick . Right before sunset the cruise ships' horns summon back their inmates and they depart. Up to three were docked simultaneously while we were there. Last one in—first one to back out. Then the town shuts down.

The weather had returned to "normal" - highs in the mid 80s and lows around 70, but with winds down to 10-20 rather than the 20-30 they had been since our arrival. The water temperature is around 82*F. Wally departed the day after our arrival in St. Thomas and he and his "Spy Cam" (read: mega telephoto lens) will be missed. It was great having both him and Bob aboard.

Thankfully, while here, we met up with Chesapeake friends Hank & Seale on 471 S/V FLASH and picked their brains - again - for cruising advice as we continue southward down the chain of Caribbean islands. True cruising friends, we hung out at the laundry with Seale one morning. So then, after four loads of laundry, we were fully transitioned to cruising mode .

One day while in the harbor mega-yacht "Ocean Victory" moved to anchor just beside us. It seems their original position was a bit too close to all the cruise ships backing off their docks. We figure they were awaiting a high-profile client arrival. The crew took their tender over to the docks to be met with a pre-arranged delivery of a large colorful bouquet of flowers. We watched, waiting for Oprah or Madonna to show up. Where's the Spy Cam when you need it??!!!

We decided that instead of sailing next to St. Martin as originally planned , we would sail to the island of Saba on December 2 (we will hit St. Martin on our return trip northward). The sail to Saba was an overnight sail of a little over 100 nm. We planned to depart St. Thomas after breakfast and tack up Drake Channel, exiting the Virgins south of Virgin Gorda around dusk, reach off on NE winds to arrive Saba in the daylight the following morning. A more direct route from St. Thomas would put too much wind on our nose, so the travel up the Drake Channel will give us the opportunity to travel southward on a more favorable wind direction. We took advantage of the extra time we had to make a lunch stop at Salt Island to snorkel the wreck of the HMS Rhone, a popular dive site.