Despite my misgivings during the night about
the difficulties we might encounter whilst extricating ourselves from the confines of the
too-narrow box as the boat rocked and jerked against her ties in the seas
kicked up by the fresh breeze, we
managed it without mishap and were on our way at 10:15, largely because the
wind and sea had subsided. It was a sunny day with lots of clouds and the air
was quite chill still – it was only 11°C in our main saloon this morning! That
meant that when the sun shone, it was comfortably warm but on the all too
frequent occasions that a large cloud mass obscured it, it was the opposite. At
least there wasn’t much wind chill as there was precious little of it, so we
motored the 9 miles across Flensburger förde to the Danish town of Sønderborg. We
decided to try the town quay rather than the marina outside the town, the quay
has the advantage of being nearer everything but the disadvantage of not having
smooth sides, rather there are large wooden supportive poles at 10’ intervals,
interspersed with wooden beams.
Fortunately, we have 4 large spherical fenders
that are fat enough, when placed against the wooden dividing beams, to stick
out further than the poles, so we were able to safely rest alongside.
Sønderborg is situated on the southern
entrance to Als Sund, the sound that separates the island of Als from the
mainland. Translated, it means ‘south or southern castle’ and it has its twin on
the northern tip of the island called Nordborg, or Northern Castle. There has
been a castle here since the twelfth century, owned either by the crown or the
powerful dynasties of dukes, some of whom became kings. It is a complex history
hearabouts, as we are right on the border between Germany and Denmark, a border
which has moved with time, only being ratified in 1920 after the plebiscite I
referred to previously. Prior to that and WW1, all of this area belonged to
Prussia after a disastrous Danish defeat in a battle nearby in 1864. Prussia, incidentally, unified with the other
German states to create the German Empire in 1871 – the monarchies were
abolished in the revolution of 1918-1919 to become the State of Germany.
Sønderborg castle is situated right at the
entrance to Als Sund but in truth, in its Gothic rendition (it’s been a small
castle, a walled enclosed castle (termed curtain wall) a Renaissance castle and
finally an austere Gothic castle) it looks more like a 19th Century apartment
complex that anything. We decided to visit the castle in the morning (after
first checking with our blog entry of 31st August 2010 when we were
here before, that we hadn’t actually been inside and had forgotten!! (sad, but
true, we do tend to forget)) and as it was pleasant in the cockpit during the
brighter periods, we stayed put for a couple of hours then went into the town
to look around and do some shopping. The town has an extensive shopping area,
all pedestrianized and as such, quite a pleasant place to be but the buildings
by and large are new (Sønderborg was razed during the main battles of 1864, the
centre of which was Dybbøl, only 9km away). After visiting the Edeka store for supplies we called into the tourist
office, as a result of which we reckoned that other than the castle there wasn’t
much else to see within walking distance, so we headed back to the boat and
raised the cockpit cover, to provide some warmth in the back of the boat whilst
we sat there. I can’t over-emphasize how cool it was when exposed to the wind
and under cloud, it was cutting and quite how the fishermen in their little boats
in the sound could bear being there for hours, I’ve no idea – the thrill of the
hunt, I suppose.
That evening Julie created something out of
pesto, mushrooms, onion, garlic, courgette & green pepper, served with
spaghetti and parmesan and despite my lack of enthusiasm (where’s the meat?) it
was delicious!
2025-05-23