Today we were planning to leave for
Augustenborg (see yesterday’s map) , basically heading northwards up the sound,
turning right at the top of Als then heading down to the bottom of a deep bay
called Augustenborg fjord, 12 miles in all. However, we first wanted some fresh
bread and also the promised visit to the castle so by 10:00 we were back on
board and ready for our cultural interlude. The castle today is basically a
museum and has been so for decades. The principal exhibits are items that cover
the origins of the castle and the history of its owners, the story of the
battle of 1864 and its’ aftermath and finally a number of rooms containing some
fine religious carvings, some furniture and finally, rooms reassembled from their original houses to give an idea of
how people lived in those times, the late 18th and early 19th
centuries. Unlike Flensburg’s museums, a proportion, but not all of the
exhibits had English texts so we were able to glean some details of what was
going on. We spent a couple of hours there and we were pleased to have been.
I
have included a number of photographs of some of the exhibits.
To leave northwards from Sønderborg, you
have to pass under two bridges. One is a bascule bridge ie it opens and the
other is plenty high enough to allow us under. The King Christian X’s bridge,
built during the latter half of the 1920’s, opens once an hour at the strange
time of 38 minutes past the hour. As we’d exited the museum at around midday
and as CW was only 5 minutes away, we figured we would have enough time to make
the 12:38 opening, which we did. Once under, it is a straightforward run up the
sound, a sound which opens up when past the 682 metre long Als Strait Bridge.
Once out of the town, we stopped the engine and unfurled the genoa and ghosted
along quietly, reveling in the pleasant, pastoral scenery and listening to the
chuckle of the water as it slipped past the hull, lovely. Again, like yesterday
it was pleasantly warm when the sun appeared, chilly when it hid behind clouds.
Looking in front, there was no evidence of buildings anywhere and you could
easily imagine being in a sailing vessel two centuries ago, the scenery would
have been identical, I’m sure.
Lovely.
Sadly after a couple of hours we were so
blanketed by the trees on the upwind banks that we had none, so we had to motor
for a while then when clear, we reverted to sailing, until at last, deep inside
Augustenbrog fjord, the wind dropped to almost nothing so we motored the rest
of the way, arriving soon after 15:30. Fortunately the owner of 4 of the
pontoons was nearby and he directed us to a box that we would have ignored, as
it had the red marker up. To explain – very commonly in the Baltic they employ
a system that utilizes a metal plate, red on one side and green on the other.
When vacant, the green side is exposed, when booked the red. Apparently the
owner of our box had forgotten to reverse the plate as he was leaving. The
availability of this box was good news for us as it was nice and wide and as
the wind was blowing directly into the box, we chose to reverse in, which we
achieved successfully (not as easy as you may think!).
Augustenborg, a small town of about 4000,
grew up around Augustenburg Palace which was established during the middle of
the 17th century. Today it is a psychiatric hospital so it is closed
to the public. The marina is very popular with Brits, including Cruising
Association members, largely due, at a guess, because of the capabilities of its
owner, Anders Dahl, not least of which is his fluency in English! It was Anders
who directed us to our berth but that was the last we saw of him that day. It
is a pleasant situation, his 3 large boat sheds are nearby and the facilities
are housed in what might have been an old farmhouse at one time. Anyway, they’re
OK and we opted to stay here for 2 nights, as tomorrow is a washing day.
2025-05-23